Building an exterior wall ...

[N2ae86]

Hi All,

I know this doesn’t involve fusing bits of metal together but I suspect a few practical types on here could offer some advice.

I need to knock out the side of my glass porch and block up the resulting hole – creating an exterior wall.

I think I understand the process but is anyone able to give me some advice that would be appreciated. So far haven’t found a builder that will commit to the job and also they don’t want to explain what’s involved for obvious reasons.

Some questions …

Either side of the porch panel I am removing is brick work – am I right in assuming I need a wall starter kit for each course to tie the first few runs of the new wall to the existing brickwork?

Is there a set distance the second course needs to be from the first course?

Once I have built the wall to a set height I want to install a window pane – slightly unsure what I need to do at this point as I haven’t properly looked into it.

I have seen what looks like a corrugated roll of wire mesh being laid down in the mortar between brick rows and called a reinforcing strip – what is this and where does it need to be used?

(wall will be 5ft above ground level – so no need for damp course etc from what I understand and will eventually be rendered)

Thanks for the help

James

 

[cumbriasteve]

I can answer one part I think, the mesh strip is what I used to cross between the courses from the blocks to the lintels, slightest ground movement and they always seem to crack there, my workshop has been up for 6 years without any cracks running.

I allowed about 15" either side of the mortar joint.

 

[RBDIVE]

Can you add some pic`s i might be able to help, and will the porch be heatted? You should also ring the local council building control you might need the works to be signed off, they wont bite and will help you along

 

[N2ae86]

Ahh - Steve that makes sense! the Mesh will reinforce the mortar and prevent the cracks. Thats one area cleared up then!

Hey RB Dive - unsure on if I need to involve the council? The porch isnt an external structure to the property - its all under the same roof and internal to the house if that makes sense? A picture would say a thousand words wouldnt it! Will try and rustle one up.

Plan is to install a new front door and side panels and then at the exterior side of the porch remove the glass and block it up (then install a smaller window) - House is going to get rerendered at some point and the current porch area is a bit of a secuity concern.

Dont want to involve the council if its not needed as concerned they will cause bigger issues down the line.

Once the wall and new front door is installed the glass doors seperating the porch from the hall way will be removed so it becomes 1 area. We do plan on heating it along with the rest of the hall way.

Thanks for the responses! All helpful.


James

 

[octo0072000]

the bricky

have a look at this the bricky

http://www.brickytool.com/offer.htm

if you buy the offer you get 4 dvds of how to do it,s trowel line clips etc
bricky tool will help anyone to get your brickwork to look better

i have one and find it so easy to use as my brick work is not the best

 

[jimi_boom]

I am no expert and I’m sure someone can probably shed more light on this but.

You have two choices when filling in a hole, if like you say you have brick work on either side I would be inclined to take out every other brick to tie in the now brick work rather than a starter kit as this will probably look better and you won’t have a line of mortar at the joint area.

However if this is not possible I believe you only need to tie in every other course, however if the gap isn’t very big and you have plenty of ties then I would put on in at every course.

as for the mesh I am not sure what you mean, if you are looking at putting two course of bricks up to create a cavity then you simply need "fish Tails" not sure what the correct term is, but they look like a comedy wire frame bow tie (a daft explanation I know) this is used to tie the courses together. Also if it is cavity walls then ensure you put these at the correct height otherwise you won’t get our cavity wall insulation in for obvious reasons.

as for the window pane, simple fix the new frame work to you new brick work using frame fixings, again it depends on what you are using, if it’s a PVC frame then you can get special plastic fixings that go through the frame and in to the wall.
If it’s a wooden frame then drill thought the frame on several places, marking the wall and then remove window drill holes to required depth, insert plug and fix into place using suitable screw and job done

Like I said no expert but without pictures this is a vague idea of what I would do.

 

[pedrobedro]

Fish tails are stainless wire butterfly ties or take the brickwork either side down at an angle then fill the hole. Concrete frame screws are used nowadays to hold windows in, drill a hole in frame and wall and screw it straight in, fitters don't use the old plastic plug ones much nowadays. If you are blocking a hole and hiding it after you can get screw in starter ties to bond into your old brickwork. You shouldn't need reinforcing in the joint in a short run with a solid base. Google any of the terms and you should find something on them. If you are hiding it after I would use blocks as they are quicker and use less gobbo.

 

[outofthefire]

First off if there is movement in the footings something will crack either at the joints or the blockwork if the sand cement mix is too strong.

If there isn't any brickwork attached to the main house wall i.e. your just removing framework then you've got a bit of a problem. You will need to break into the existing main wall to continue the cavity especially if your removing the inner door (which could be the reason the builders you've approached aren't interested). Failing to do this would almost certainly end up with damp penetrating through the join. There's building regulations that you would need to comply with and you could end up in the mire if you ignore them as someone's already mentioned they're not monsters at the council they're just concerned with you doing a safe and decent job and will help you more than hinder you.

Simply put if you cant wall a brick, this is beyond diy unless you do a lot of learning first.

 

[Rick]

have a look at this the bricky

http://www.brickytool.com/offer.htm

if you buy the offer you get 4 dvds of how to do it,s trowel line clips etc
bricky tool will help anyone to get your brickwork to look better

i have one and find it so easy to use as my brick work is not the best

I thought the holes in the bricks got filled with mortar and added a mechanical strength rather than a bonding, with this tool you don't get that? I'm no brick layer, but the guys in the trade don't use it and it looks just as quick with less waste, other than looking a tool and getting hammer of your mates there must be a reason they don't use them.

 

[octo0072000]

I thought the holes in the bricks got filled with mortar and added a mechanical strength rather than a bonding, with this tool you don't get that? I'm no brick layer, but the guys in the trade don't use it and it looks just as quick with less waste, other than looking a tool and getting hammer of your mates there must be a reason they don't use them.

i am not a bricky built a garage walls etc over time i find the bricky good i don't make as much mess and the mortar levels are better if you are a bricky for a living that's a different ball game

 

[outofthefire]

I thought the holes in the bricks got filled with mortar and added a mechanical strength rather than a bonding, with this tool you don't get that? I'm no brick layer, but the guys in the trade don't use it and it looks just as quick with less waste, other than looking a tool and getting hammer of your mates there must be a reason they don't use them.

The strength of a wall is in the weight of the bricks bearing downwards, the mortar is to spread the load evenly through the wall and to keep the bricks apart, thats why having everything level and plumb is critical. The holes and frogs are more to save on clay and to make them lighter and easier to handle.

 

[Cally91]

Frogs on bricks should face upwards until last coarse which are laid face side up so bricky tool works I work with bricks regularly on my job as a landscaper bricking up a porch should be fairly easy using wall starters but you will end up with a full muc joint but is less of a pain than opening and trying to key them in and

A: You must tie in the dpm with the original wall dpm

B: Wall ties must be used i generally chuck them in every 3 or 6 rows of facing bricks to line up with 1 or 2 rows of blocks

C: Cavitys range in size so not able to help here but local building regs will tell you

Hope this helps


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.795012,-0.192074

 

[outofthefire]

Frogs can be walled either way and generally there walled frog down to save on mortar and time.

Cavities were generally 50mm wide but they can be up to 150mm to accommodate thicker insulation material.

Wall ties should be every course of blocks 450 at 900mm spacing they should be staggered.

 

[N2ae86]

Guys, thanks for all the great responses! Meant to post sooner but works been getting in the way. Going to sit down and digest everything thats been said.

I will also take a photo tomorrow when its not pitch black so people can see whats planned.

Advantage with the wall is that exterior finish isnt an issue as it will eventually be rendered - so I can use blocks to speed things up.

I am no builder but I can put my hand to most things with the right research, tools and understanding. Built and repaired some garden walls in the past so hopefully I should struggle.

Also been doing some research into capping the cavity wall ready for a window (thanks for all the advice on this so far!) .

Will update shortly!

Thanks

James