Brought a landrover need I say more.

[Pat4d]

I brought my Sealey 185 about 10 years ago when I had my last Landrover. I have just got a new one and have to do some welding. I am trying 2mm plate but only on the very higest setting seem to be getting decent penetration. This setting is too high for the surrounding rust ( metal ) . I would have thought the 185 would nail 2mm plate and I should be using number 3 or 4 setting. Any ideas?

Oh and BTW Hello, looks like a useful site/forum.

Pat.

 

[rtbcomp]

Welcome aboard! Plenty of Landrover welders on here!

 

[Luke]

Hi Pat,

Setting 3 or 4 out of? 6? 12?

 

[zardoz]

Maybe try a reel of 0.6mm wire.

 

[jrmig]

Welcome Pat4d

I agree - your Sealy should have no probs with 2mm my Clarke 135 can blow holes in 3mm if I take it too slow

I am sure a real expert will be along shortly with some genuine help.

And I'm probably teaching my grandmother to... etc. etc. but I would check all the obvious first - clean metal - good return (earth) connection - clean wire - stable wire feed etc. if you haven't used your rig for a while dirt and damp can cause all sorts of problems.

jrmig

 

[Pat4d]

Thanks guys, in reply to a few of the points mentioned.

There are 6 power settings.

New wire, new wire sleeve and new 0.6 tip are being used. Obviously 0.6 wire as well.

Earth was brushed back to clean metal and clamped on but this is the only thing I can think as being a problem. Unless it is internal in the transformer or such like.

Thanks for your replies.

Pat.

 

[oddball90]

For Land Rover chassis repairs i would use 0.8mm wire, the 180 sealey i had would quite happily weld 6mm plate on setting 4/5. Don

 

[Gasman]

Welcome: Your Mig should be more than adequate for the job, as you said, the obvious checks have been made and the higher setting obliterates the parent metal- it could be thinner than you thought Are you on CO2 or Argoshield gas??

May sound daft, but is your repair plate normal mild steel?? Your machine could have a problem or perhaps try biasing your torch towards the new metal on the higher setting to get the job done.

 

[Pat4d]

Just running with CO2 at the moment as a neighbour got a bottle for me. I think there might be something wrong with the welder, which is a pain. The first patch is on and job for tomorrow is upside down under the sil which will be loads of fun...not.
Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[cliveje]

Have you tried laying down a bead on a test piece cut from the steel you are using for your patches. If this does not work, then it points to the welder - otherwise bad earth or dirty surface where you are striking the arc on the LR.

Clive.

 

[Pat4d]

Yeah, I did a few runs on a test piece to get the settings. It is ok and will work but I have to run it at its higest settings to get proper penetration. I will have to find somewhere ro give it a check over and service.

Thanks.

 

[Afterimage]

When I did the extensive chassis repairs on my Landy I soon realised that it needed so much welding that I might as well just strip the chassis bare,which meant that I could turn it over if necessary to avoid most of the awkward out of position welding.
I had to fit a half chassis,all but one outrigger,both front dumb-irons,and repair the engine and gearbox crossmembers.
Treat all previous welded repairs with extreme suspicion - my Landy came with receipts for welding repairs totalling hundreds of pounds,but it was all bodged up with 1mm bendy steel plate and the pigeon poo welds covered in mastic and undersealed to disguise how poor the welds were.

 

[Pat4d]

All done now, turns out it was a funny grade of material, I cut some new patches from different stuff same thickness and all was fine. Thanks for your help.
I am going to attempt a stainless steel air box this weekend which will be interesting...