Bronze bearings

[MattF]

That's pretty much the main method I've been trying upto just. I've left the nut on there to save damaging the thread, but it is loosened off, so that there's space for the joint to pop. Bit reticent to get the sledge hammer on it though. I've already given this thing far more welly than I'm happy doing, which is why I'm thinking of modifying the shaft instead. I'd rather have to sort out a new shaft at some point in the future, if necessary, than risk damaging one of the castings. I think there's around 1/2" or so of shaft spare to play with, so there should be just enough to get a collar on there.

 

[MattF]

Well, I finally got the devil off the shaft. Didn't half go with a crack when it finally went. Dread to think how much pressure was on there eventually. I wasn't half leaning on the spanner to get the nut turning.

Made a sturdier variation on the machinist jack, (I ended up having to cut through the bolt on that to get it back out, due to it becoming locked solid due to the amount of pressure on it). About half a hour on the lathe, and a few bits I had knocking about, and ended up with this:

A half inch threaded rod with a nut welded on the end. Faced that head off and left a nub in the centre so that it would stay located where the shaft had been centre drilled, then shortened a sleeve for coupling 1/2" shafts together, and a piece of 3/8" steel for the base to bridge the bearing/pivot hole.

I did try a piece of 3mm flat steel plate first for the base, but to say that one couldn't take the pressure would be an understatement. This is what happened to that piece:

That happened with nowhere near the final pressure applied which was eventually needed to crack this taper joint.