Bronze bearings

[MattF]

Just wondered if oilite bearings could be used in place of phosphor bronze bearings, in most applications? If so, (accepting the fact that oilite is self lubricating), is there any valid reason not to lubricate as one would if using normal bronze bearings? I know constant lubrication technically would not be needed with oilite, but I'd rather know there's a constant oil or grease film rather than rely on impregnated oil.

Reason for asking is that I'm renovating the large Rapidor saw at the moment, (decided to get this one done as it takes up shedloads of room in its dismantled state), and some of the bearings are quite shot. I noticed, whilst I've been checking PB prices, that oilite seems cheaper and also that there's a large range of pre-cast bearing sizes readily available, so wondering if I could likely get away with using oilite rather than buying PB rod and having to machine the bearings up myself. Would work out cheaper and easier if I could.


Cheers.

 

[awemawson]

I seem to remember that Oilite bushes won't take quite as much load as a solid bronze bush of the same size due to their sintered nature, but I don't think that the difference is that much

 

[brightspark]

i wouldnt worry about it .if u fit oilite bearings they will outlast u whatever the work its given as long as u grease them up regular when in use

 

[Fazerruss]

Hi Matt, where from and how much is the bearing material you're getting as i'm also about refurbish my rapidor soon?

 

[Shox Dr]

As BS says, easy to get hold of, cheap. And if looked after will last a long time

 

[breezer]

I'm after a main bearing for mine too...

Is everyone else working on 1 5/8" OD & 1 1/2 ID"

?

Cheers

Jim

 

[Shox Dr]

Simply Bearings don't look to stock that size. So it might not be available, easy enough to turn down though

 

[PhillipM]

If you grease oilite bearings, you kind of miss the point in having them, because you'll block the pores and stop the oil coming through...better to just re-oil them now and again, or even better, give them some oil and a wick feed if possible.

 

[breezer]

What are peoples thoughts on using acetal?

 

[RichardM]

Acetal - probably too soft for the loads

I may have some PB kicking about from years ago, if you can machine it I will have a look. What sizes are you after?

 

[MattF]

Cheers chaps. Sounds like they're well worth giving a shot.

Hi Matt, where from and how much is the bearing material you're getting as i'm also about refurbish my rapidor soon?

Was going to try the local bearing place first, once I know the exact sizes I need, but there are a couple of sites I found whilst searching online. One is that one Shox linked to, and the other one is:

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Oilite_Bearing_Bushes_-1011-c

If you grease oilite bearings, you kind of miss the point in having them, because you'll block the pores and stop the oil coming through...better to just re-oil them now and again, or even better, give them some oil and a wick feed if possible.

Aye, I know, but there may be the odd one which has to be greased due to awkward placement. Wherever possible though, I'm hoping to set up an oil reservoir and have feed tubes running to each existing grease point, supplying an oil feed instead. Never been a fan of using grease unless it's something where it's not feasible to oil it frequently.

Just need to get this bl**dy crank arm off the shaft first though. A taper fit, it's defeating my every effort to remove it. Tried a makeshift puller, a screw jack, hammering, heat etc., and nowt will shift it upto just. Only having a 2-1/2" gap to work in doesn't help.

 

[brightspark]

Cheers chaps. Sounds like they're well worth giving a shot.



Was going to try the local bearing place first, once I know the exact sizes I need, but there are a couple of sites I found whilst searching online. One is that one Shox linked to, and the other one is:

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Oilite_Bearing_Bushes_-1011-c




Aye, I know, but there may be the odd one which has to be greased due to awkward placement. Wherever possible though, I'm hoping to set up an oil reservoir and have feed tubes running to each existing grease point, supplying an oil feed instead. Never been a fan of using grease unless it's something where it's not feasible to oil it frequently.

Just need to get this bl**dy crank arm off the shaft first though. A taper fit, it's defeating my every effort to remove it. Tried a makeshift puller, a screw jack, hammering, heat etc., and nowt will shift it upto just. Only having a 2-1/2" gap to work in doesn't help.

i cant be certain but theres the possibility the crank arm may be screwed on to the shaft and a locknut fitted it was 30 years ago when i had mine to bits so memory fails

 

[MattF]

i cant be certain but theres the possibility the crank arm may be screwed on to the shaft and a locknut fitted it was 30 years ago when i had mine to bits so memory fails

God, I hope not. I'd feel a right tool now if that was the case. The Major was definitely a taper fit, so I'd assumed this one is the same. This is the bit:

The part with the chain sprocket attached to it.

 

[brightspark]

its diffrent to mine .mines a wheel crank and i checked the crankshaft and its 1 and a 1/4 inch diameter. if the crank is on a taper u can take the large steel block bearing out and use a drift through against the shaft

 

[Shox Dr]

God, I hope not. I'd feel a right tool now if that was the case.

I once spent the best part of an hour trying to get a 4' nut off a shaft, when the assembely moved in the vice, and the nut slid off the end

 

[MattF]

its diffrent to mine .mines a wheel crank and i checked the crankshaft and its 1 and a 1/4 inch diameter. if the crank is on a taper u can take the large steel block bearing out and use a drift through against the shaft

Even that block won't come out. This saw has it in for me. The block will slide inwards fine, but there's not enough clearance to get it out that way. Try sliding it outwards, however, and it won't come out more than a 1/4" or so, and I can't find any burrs or such which might be stopping it.

This is how the complete machine looks:

It's one of the larger models they did.

I once spent the best part of an hour trying to get a 4' nut off a shaft, when the assembely moved in the vice, and the nut slid off the end

Makes you wonder whether to laugh or cry when it happens, don't it.

 

[MattF]

Well, I'n now run out of ideas with regards to splitting that taper. Even had the bed laid on it's side last night with a small electrolysis setup working on just the crank and shaft part, hoping that might help, but after half a hour session with a 2-1/2lb lump hammer this aft, (I only ever resort to the lump hammer as a desperation tool), obviously not. So..., wondering if it might be a passable idea to just cut the shaft behind the crank, then make a flange for the end of the shaft which will bolt to the back of the crank arm, sort of like a lathes chuck and backplate. A couple of photo's of the shaft and crank as is:

I'd probably leave the crank arm intact and cut the shaft immediately behind the crank. Hoping that this method might remove any possible problem in the future if I need to disassemble again for any reason.

 

[brightspark]

are u sure its not screwed on, seems funny u have tried heat and a good whack and it hasnt moved

 

[MattF]

Tried whacking the arm both ways on the shaft too, holding the shaft in place with a clamp make from a block of wood, and it didn't shift then either.

Tried that just to double check, after you put that seed of doubt in my mind.

 

[wyn]

I'd take the nut off...if that's what it is......Tap the other pivot pin towards the middle. Put a lump of aluminium between the two shafts. Insert some sort of long round bar through the right hand pivot and "persuade" it with a sledge hammer.