It is good to see a well-reasoned response, devoid of profanity. I am absolutely sure you did not intend it, but the discussion of your own machines actually provides some support for the post to which I linked.
It is why the 'open mind' is important. You are a professional machinist, using the machines you own to make money. What does that mean? To earn their keep, the machines need to be in use for 40 hours a week. They need to remove material at a prescribed rate, again so they make money. You have the need for and facilities to manage coolant. The machines are situated in a building, which is dedicated to their housing, other proceses being separated from them. The machines are depreciated each year as part of your accounting process and have a calculated economic life. In summary, they are high duty cycle, worked hard and written off when finished with.
When the manufacturer writes down his lubrication specification (i.e. where to lubricate, how often and with what product), he does so with all those things above in mind and his recommendations are geared to meeting the requirements that the conditions of use impose. He does not just pull numbers and oils out of the air. The 2011 to present change you mention is likely driven by feedback from users that his original recommendations were not suitable to meet the customers' requirements (i.e. he screwed up and the machines are wearing out too quickly).
Now, contrast that to the situation to the vast majority of users on this forum. Most of them are hobby-type users, amateurs rather than professionals. So we have to ask whether the conditions your machines work in apply to a home-shop machine.
Useage? Maybe one hour a week. Generally light duty work, no high MRR in this situation (or the carbon steel tooling inherited from the grandfather will need a wipe on the oilstone he used to sharpen his scythe). Machine located in a garage, shed or workshop, used for other purposes and shared with other machines. Very little use of coolant, especially flood coolant. Once bought, generally the machine will be a keeper for life, so anything that will accelerate wear on it is to be avoided. Hobby users are likely more vigilent about oiling their expensive toy than an employee might be.
So if the machine sits from week to week in a garage, maybe where on a Wednesday you go in and do a bit of welding and grinding, and on Thursday you sand down the family rocking horse, and on Friday the wife shakes out the filter in the tumble dryer, will having its ways permanently covered in sticky ISO 68 be the best solution? It will attract every bit of airborne dust and debris. Should you notice it or be bothered to do something about it, way oil is difficult to clean off thoroughly. Horror of horrors, I sometimes turn wood on my lathe - that forms an interesting amalgum with way oil.
In a realistic home-shop situation, you might want something thin and non-sticky while the machine is sitting, just to stop rust. Wipe it clean just before you use it. Oil it with something suitable that will attract and hold in suspension any nasties the wiping fails to grab, use it for an hour, wipe it again (so what is used should not be too tenacious) and waft some corrosion inhibitor over it. Leave it to marinade for the next six days. Repeat until your maker calls.
Look at the machine that Pete. is currently rebuilding. Let us say he is unfortunate enough to be forced to store it in a shop between a spindle moulder and something rough milling castings straight from the mould. It will be showered with cast iron dust and foundry sand from one side and wood dust from the other. So having the equivalent of flypaper on the ways might not be the best for that situation, even though that is what the head Tosser says should be used.
So all the Teenut post is saying is do not blandly accept the manufacturer's recommendations as gospel. Ask some questions about the assumptions behind those recommendations and ask whether those assumptions are correct for your own situation. If the assumptions are not correct, there is at least some scope for discussion. When someone asks a question about machine lubrication, blindly and authoritatively to blurt out 'ISO68' is poor advice. I could train my parrot to do that. We as a community are better than that. Standard way oil is not a bad choice, but there might be better choices for a light duty, infrequent, mixed-use application.
Consider that one of the big drivers of the manufacturer recommendations is having a way lube that is not washed away by the coolant flowing over it - bare ways are not good, tramp oil in the coolant reservoir is not good. If you do not use coolant, then one of the primary reasons for standard way oil disappears. If you are taking light cuts, the high film strength requirement reduces its importance.
That's a load of absolute bull crap.
I prefer normal iso 68 for the lathe but on the mill way oil is 100% the way to go. You have vertical ways. You need that tackifier.
Nice bit of creative writing there,but that is exactly what it is, creative writing. You probably couldn’t be further from the truth if you tried. Typical story of somebody trying to manipulate the facts to suit their own agenda. Most of my machines don’t run 24-7. I’m not that kind of business. I have certain machines that sometimes only run once or twice a year. They do get covered in dust. Do I use thinner,non manufacturer recommended oils on them because of this? No I jolly well dont. I clean them down before use and clean them down after use ,and stick to what is recommended.It is good to see a well-reasoned response, devoid of profanity. I am absolutely sure you did not intend it, but the discussion of your own machines actually provides some support for the post to which I linked.
It is why the 'open mind' is important. You are a professional machinist, using the machines you own to make money. What does that mean? To earn their keep, the machines need to be in use for 40 hours a week. They need to remove material at a prescribed rate, again so they make money. You have the need for and facilities to manage coolant. The machines are situated in a building, which is dedicated to their housing, other proceses being separated from them. The machines are depreciated each year as part of your accounting process and have a calculated economic life. In summary, they are high duty cycle, worked hard and written off when finished with.
When the manufacturer writes down his lubrication specification (i.e. where to lubricate, how often and with what product), he does so with all those things above in mind and his recommendations are geared to meeting the requirements that the conditions of use impose. He does not just pull numbers and oils out of the air. The 2011 to present change you mention is likely driven by feedback from users that his original recommendations were not suitable to meet the customers' requirements (i.e. he screwed up and the machines are wearing out too quickly).
Now, contrast that to the situation to the vast majority of users on this forum. Most of them are hobby-type users, amateurs rather than professionals. So we have to ask whether the conditions your machines work in apply to a home-shop machine.
Useage? Maybe one hour a week. Generally light duty work, no high MRR in this situation (or the carbon steel tooling inherited from the grandfather will need a wipe on the oilstone he used to sharpen his scythe). Machine located in a garage, shed or workshop, used for other purposes and shared with other machines. Very little use of coolant, especially flood coolant. Once bought, generally the machine will be a keeper for life, so anything that will accelerate wear on it is to be avoided. Hobby users are likely more vigilent about oiling their expensive toy than an employee might be.
So if the machine sits from week to week in a garage, maybe where on a Wednesday you go in and do a bit of welding and grinding, and on Thursday you sand down the family rocking horse, and on Friday the wife shakes out the filter in the tumble dryer, will having its ways permanently covered in sticky ISO 68 be the best solution? It will attract every bit of airborne dust and debris. Should you notice it or be bothered to do something about it, way oil is difficult to clean off thoroughly. Horror of horrors, I sometimes turn wood on my lathe - that forms an interesting amalgum with way oil.
In a realistic home-shop situation, you might want something thin and non-sticky while the machine is sitting, just to stop rust. Wipe it clean just before you use it. Oil it with something suitable that will attract and hold in suspension any nasties the wiping fails to grab, use it for an hour, wipe it again (so what is used should not be too tenacious) and waft some corrosion inhibitor over it. Leave it to marinade for the next six days. Repeat until your maker calls.
Look at the machine that Pete. is currently rebuilding. Let us say he is unfortunate enough to be forced to store it in a shop between a spindle moulder and something rough milling castings straight from the mould. It will be showered with cast iron dust and foundry sand from one side and wood dust from the other. So having the equivalent of flypaper on the ways might not be the best for that situation, even though that is what the head Tosser says should be used.
So all the Teenut post is saying is do not blandly accept the manufacturer's recommendations as gospel. Ask some questions about the assumptions behind those recommendations and ask whether those assumptions are correct for your own situation. If the assumptions are not correct, there is at least some scope for discussion. When someone asks a question about machine lubrication, blindly and authoritatively to blurt out 'ISO68' is poor advice. I could train my parrot to do that. We as a community are better than that. Standard way oil is not a bad choice, but there might be better choices for a light duty, infrequent, mixed-use application.
Consider that one of the big drivers of the manufacturer recommendations is having a way lube that is not washed away by the coolant flowing over it - bare ways are not good, tramp oil in the coolant reservoir is not good. If you do not use coolant, then one of the primary reasons for standard way oil disappears. If you are taking light cuts, the high film strength requirement reduces its importance.
Nice bit of creative writing there,but that is exactly what it is, creative writing. You probably couldn’t be further from the truth if you tried. Typical story of somebody trying to manipulate the facts to suit their own agenda. Most of my machines don’t run 24-7. I’m not that kind of business. I have certain machines that sometimes only run once or twice a year. They do get covered in dust. Do I use thinner,non manufacturer recommended oils on them because of this? No I jolly well dont. I clean them down before use and clean them down after use ,and stick to what is recommended.
Just waiting for the VMC to finish its spindle warm up cycle, so drinking coffeeHaha what would know, you haven't looked on Google bloody fool
Looking at the time stamp I'd hazard a guess you are currently machining?
Just waiting for the VMC to finish its spindle warm up cycle, so drinking coffee