Thanks - I'll take a look once I get it - but that may not be for a week now, rather frustratingly....The bronze piece may be lost then, I can send a photo of a used one and you can just file a piece of brass to suitable size as I did with mine.
Thank you @6ply - that's very kind. I rather suspect it will come in handyBoxford parts list etc. I hope it is useful.
Can I nick a copy please? ThanksBoxford parts list etc. I hope it is useful.
Mine was a degree worse when I got it, there were only some jagged edges left where the outer ring of the groove had been, I brazed a steel washer on and borrowed a friends lathe to true it, but then when I put it back together, the holes in the gear were too big, been bored out? I don't know but it rattled especially when running idle. I could have maybe fitted inserts but I found another gear for sale on eBay and thats whats on the lathe nowFirstly, the mechanism to slide the gear into/out of engagement was worn and had "popped out" from the groove it should have run in. This was easily repaired. Secondly, the sliding gear had been damaged - either through wear on the aforementioned part or abuse of the levered mechanism. This required some very careful repair (using a second lathe) to remedy.
Thanks- that picture answers a question- how is the bronze part held on - just by position and interference.Bronze gear shifter.
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The bronze part has a hole in it which go's on the little pin on the shaft which is in the photo. It is held in position because it is in the groove of the sliding gear in the headstock. As said before, when assembling, it can be quite tricky putting the small pin in the bronze part as the bronze part won't go through the hole that the shaft and bush go through in the head casing. You need to stick the bronze part in the gear groove with grease, turn the gear 180 degrees, then with the little pin on the shaft at 12 o clock or 6:30 position, blindly try to insert the little pin in the bronze part. Hope this makes sense, you will see what I'm trying to say when you come to do the repair.Thanks- that picture answers a question- how is the bronze part held on - just by position and interference.
But most gearbox lathes have gears between the main shaft and gearbox you can change, as long as you have the gears...I had an AUD but got lathe envy and 'had' to buy a VSL500
I think I bought the AUD for about £700 and got much the same back (although I'd added a few bits to it)... bought the VSL for not a lot more and watched Boxford prices get almost as silly as Myford ever since
If you read 'Screwcutting in the lathe' (and why wouldn't you, it has every answer you'll ever need) you'll see that the author recommended non-gearbox lathes as they become too restrictive... yeah, maybe twice in a lifetime. For us mere mortals you can't beat the convenience - but for that odd occasion when you need a 27-3/4 tpi thread, discrete gears are the way to go.
Aye... just need a bit of maths to work out... that you have every gear but the right oneBut most gearbox lathes have gears between the main shaft and gearbox you can change, as long as you have the gears...
Use the link that I postedAye... just need a bit of maths to work out... that you have every gear but the right one
What have I done!!
HOPEFULLY collecting tomorrow, as long as I can get my hands on the engine crane.Bronze gear shifter.
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Pah - hoped to get it unloaded last Saturday - what was I thinking! I actually had to take a day off of work today to find time to unload this baby.
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It's now offloaded, and in it's final resting place.
It's no Rolls Royce (Or Raglan, Harrison or whatever) but it's clean and tidy, with just a few things to sort out.
@Bsmith I was right - it's that little bronze pin missing completely. Do you have precise dimensions by any chance please?
Great idea of using car body filler. I haven't started to take it apart yet.Congratulations on getting the lathe you will not be disappointed.
It's a bronze rectangular piece with maybe a 3mm hole that goes in the groove of the sliding gear, it's held in place by a small pin in end of the gear actuator shaft, is that pin broken? If it is, I would drill the remaining piece of pin out and drive a short roll pin in it's place. No, sorry I don't have the original piece any more so can't do dimentions. I remember making a brass piece once which worked ok, I got the size by pressing car body filler in the greassy groove where it was accsessible at the back of the headstock, took the filler out when hardened and filed a piece of brass to what I thought would suit, probably about 1mm narrower than the groove, length is not critical, I would guess 19mm or a bit longer wont do any harm.