- bristol england
ever time i say to someone dont put to much weight on it as the wall is not that strong
next time ive seen it books all over the place up to ceiling glass solid oriments and the shelf is leaning like to tower of pizsa
To reduce the heat input and the risk of distortion, and make the weld bead flatter, weld the joints vertical down, its faster too.
A handy tip thinks. Bit better
So if you could jump in right at the start next time, that would be great
The other problem I had is that I would set up my position, get a decent light throw, make sure I'm not shadowing the light, fire it up and my vision goes blank!
I have a decent enough helmet, Speedglas 9100x but increasingly I have noticed it's impossible to see where I am going. Once the welding starts it's literally guesswork where the joint is.
So I discover the front element hasn't been cleaned since, well since forever. I need to know what the buttons do and not randomly pick a number (gonna Google that now) and if the weld is slightly above, the glare doesn't blow out the image. Sometimes it's OK and I can see the join but you don't find out until the instant you fire it up when you can suddenly be welding in the dark...
On struggling to see the joint; I've had people suggest drawing chalk lines along joint, or for laying beads tyep stuff score a line with a grinder and for certainly applications clamp an off cut near the joint as the edge of the off cut is easier to see and helps you gauge where the joint is.
I think I had a fair bit more grime on the visor than I really should and was getting a lot of flare, plus this time after cleaning it, I actually read the instructions...
Also whipped out the cheapo lens cheater I had fitted since day one. I think the next session will go a lot better. Nothing more frustrating than laying a perfect bead only to discover you missed the join. Come on, we've all done it.
Ok just me then...