Lawnmowerboy
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A very good quality chisel will do it easy. The nuts should be fairly soft.
- Thread starter Windy Miller
- Start date
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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I meant a tenner 
brightspark
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- yarm stockton on tees
you would loose your quid with mineHaha, no, I've rewound motorbike alternators by hand in the past and that was enough grief... the leadout wires from the stator winding are looped around a peg and then crimped into the terminal which joins the wire from the speed control board.
I think too much tension has been used in this operation and in each case the leadout wire has snapped near to the peg.
Fairly simple matter to crimp a short piece of enamelled copper to the leadout and reattach to the terminal - with less tension, of course
Broken leadouts are a fairly common failure mode in cheap electric motors, especially 240V ones - it affects orbital sanders a lot because people tend to bang the pad with the palm of their hand to clean it: the hot motor windings then snap with the impact so the sander instantly packs up.
Dropped electric drills tend to die in the same fashion.
It doesn't tend to affect 110V tools as their motors are wound with thicker copper.
So when (not if) your PMF180 suddenly stops working, I'll bet you a quid this is how it dies
it gets hammered every week at work and packed in . just a flex break
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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- Teesside, England
you would loose your quid with mine
There's always one...
The flex is a bit cheap and stiff for the current it carries (I know you may have an idea about these matters
), so I'm not surprised.
brightspark
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yes changed it to 3 core rubber flex cut from someones garden pond pump and doubled its lengthThere's always one...
The flex is a bit cheap and stiff for the current it carries (I know you may have an idea about these matters
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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That's one of the plans. Might be quicker and easier than the drilled nut plan!
