Perfect. Thanks!
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premmington
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@reb78 - did you understand my explanation...? Everybody on here is so articulate and I just "a dumb fat mechanic"
Yep, thanks - got it completely. So, turn away from the side i am working on so the rack is as far in as it can go and still be accessed so it is not stuck out (like in some of those videos I posted above.
premmington
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Yeah you got it - "retract the ram".
Sorry I am so dumb....
But I have to note: It was a sensible concern you raised @reb78 - very sensible question you asked...
Thanks.Yeah you got it - "retract the ram".
Sorry I am so dumb....
But I have to note: It was a sensible concern you raised @reb78 - very sensible question you asked...
(You shouldn't put yourself down so much on here. You're one of the knowledgeable and helpful members, not a dumb mechanic... I'm more of a dumb DIYer)
premmington
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Sensible question always deserves a sensible answer....
@reb78 - When the question is ridiculous - you know you are wasting your time kid.... But yours was not....
Well. After all this, its the rack itself!!
The inner tie rod ball joints are nice and tight. The play was typical of them (one side). So i ordered both sides and they are fine. It left me stumped but I think the thrust bush in the rack might need adjustment. There were two racks BMW used. The ZF and another make. The other make has a repair part for this. The ZF doesnt. I have the ZF. There are a number of threads on the BM forums of people increasing the preload on the thrust bush slightly (i.e 1/8th turn on the adjusting nut), so i think i will give this a try.
The symptoms seem to be that the rack 'feels' loose and knocks on the drivers side, but its the rack moving rather than the ball joint of the inner tie rod!
I'll take another look tommorrow but has anyone any experience of this? I think this rack/type is quite common across a number of brands.
Some folk describe it here (different model but i think same rack) - https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?s=fff0cfbc9a23046c0a52f7832df9cff9&t=1637057&page=4
The inner tie rod ball joints are nice and tight. The play was typical of them (one side). So i ordered both sides and they are fine. It left me stumped but I think the thrust bush in the rack might need adjustment. There were two racks BMW used. The ZF and another make. The other make has a repair part for this. The ZF doesnt. I have the ZF. There are a number of threads on the BM forums of people increasing the preload on the thrust bush slightly (i.e 1/8th turn on the adjusting nut), so i think i will give this a try.
The symptoms seem to be that the rack 'feels' loose and knocks on the drivers side, but its the rack moving rather than the ball joint of the inner tie rod!
I'll take another look tommorrow but has anyone any experience of this? I think this rack/type is quite common across a number of brands.
Some folk describe it here (different model but i think same rack) - https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?s=fff0cfbc9a23046c0a52f7832df9cff9&t=1637057&page=4
AVI_8
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Yes I have had this problem and fixed it on an F25 X3, it can be an issue on most F series BMW’s, I see your car is an E series so I’m unsure if the repair kit would work on your car.
In my case I was told that it was excessive play in the drivers side inner tie rod joint by an MOT tester, it wasn’t it was the bush, you can diagnose it with the engine off and rocking the steering wheel from side to side, there will be an audible clunking.
Picture of old bush and tool which comes with the kit.
The cap on the rack will either have 3 holes in it if that’s the case you’ll need the tool to tighten or remove it or it’ll be I think from memory an 18mm Etorq socket head.
If you need the 3 pinned tool to remove it I can post it to you as long as I get it back.
Here is a link to a repair kit, you’ll see though it’s for F series cars I couldn’t find one for an E series.
In my case I was told that it was excessive play in the drivers side inner tie rod joint by an MOT tester, it wasn’t it was the bush, you can diagnose it with the engine off and rocking the steering wheel from side to side, there will be an audible clunking.
Picture of old bush and tool which comes with the kit.
The cap on the rack will either have 3 holes in it if that’s the case you’ll need the tool to tighten or remove it or it’ll be I think from memory an 18mm Etorq socket head.
If you need the 3 pinned tool to remove it I can post it to you as long as I get it back.
Here is a link to a repair kit, you’ll see though it’s for F series cars I couldn’t find one for an E series.
Thanks!! I have the ZF rack and its a 17mm bolt on the top. From reading, that kit is for the other brand of rack they fitted. So I might try a few degrees of tightening and see where I get to on mine. There's no repair kit for the zf.
What I dont know is whether I just tighten a small amount or if it needs removing, greasing and retightening. I suspect I can try just tightening if I dont go OTT and cause binding/tightness?
AVI_8
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I’d just tighten it a few degrees at a time until the free play is gone, it’s worth a try, there was no lack of grease when I removed the bush from mine.
If it doesn’t work Western power steering in Bristol have a good reputation for rack reconditioning.
If it doesn’t work Western power steering in Bristol have a good reputation for rack reconditioning.
Excellent. Trying that now. Will report back on the outcome.
Hmmm. Ive turned it in increments but its probably a quarter of a turn in total now. It's getting harder to push the wheels from side to side when under the car and when pushing the rack past the straight ahead point, it feels notchy. At that position there is knocking, less so as you reach each lock, and in the straight ahead position the play/knocking doesn't seem to be improving as I tighten that thrust bushing down.
I think this is indicating play at the rack and pinion itself?
I think this is indicating play at the rack and pinion itself?
AVI_8
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When I refitted my replacement bush that was what I did, tightened it slowly until there was no free play, there was a torque setting specified but that made it too tight and the steering didn’t want to self centre.
Sounds as though that’s not going to work in your case.
Yes WPS do a mail service with a quick turnaround on your own rack
I suspect mine isnt bush wear, but is potentially wear in the rack itself from my fiddling this morning. If it was bush wear i would imagine it would do it straight ahead and on each lock. This is worst when straight ahead. I've seen similar on land rover steering boxes where the worm is worn at the straight ahead position because thats where it spends most of its time. You can take some slack out but too much and it binds either side of straight ahead as its not worn there.
The car has done 160k so its not low mileage but not a massive high miler either.
I will give them a ring. I might be able to drop it off on Thursday next week as can be passing and then get it back the week after hopefully, if they can do something with it. I think this is a better route than a secondhand rack from an unknown vehicle?
Western P/S can recon mine for £407 provided there is nothing too terminal in there. Or they can offer an exchange for £707. I'm not entirely clear why the £300 difference as they mentioned there would be an additional surcharge on the exchange if i didn't send one back! I can cope with it off the road for a few weeks for £300 now I have got the D2 back and MOTd again. It does mean a long drive in the D3 on Monday which I wanted to avoid with the current fuel prices and the fact that it is still waiting for me to change some suspension parts!!
Quick question on this.... to remove the rack the wsm says to raise the engine and lower the sub frame. Im doing this on a 4 post ramp. Can I raise the engine using my transmission jack under the sump without damaging anything. It suggests it only needs to go up half an inch or so. To use my engine crane means doing it on the floor and a lot of crawling around.
