Blackening mild steel

  1. GrahamHggins

    GrahamHggins Member

    Messages:
    116
    Location:
    London, Barnet.
    hi - has anyone used a chemical wipe on in the Uk for blackening steel.

    I believe its called black oxide or etching or something like that.

    Just like to buy a product on net.


    Thanks
    Graham (Ireland)
     
  2. Have a look for gun bluing or barrel blue, although it's called blue if you leave it on long enough it goes black.
     
  3. GrahamHggins

    GrahamHggins Member

    Messages:
    116
    Location:
    London, Barnet.
  4. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

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    4,880
    UK London
  5. GrahamHggins

    GrahamHggins Member

    Messages:
    116
    Location:
    London, Barnet.
    Yes, they look nice. Was it steel or aluminium..
     
  6. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    4,880
    UK London
    Cut and paste from another forum....

    If I leave those steel parts bare, they will rust in no time. So I blackened them.

    [​IMG]

    Takes no time at all

    [​IMG]

    tada

    [​IMG]

    Very happy with the result. Just a question of discovering how robust it might be...

    S.
     
  7. Kent

    Kent Member

    Messages:
    10,002
    Location:
    Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
    Cold blue is not very hard wearing at all. If it's worth enough you could find out which gunsmith in your area has blind tanks?

    What is the part and what does it do? there are other ways - some better than traditional blueing
     
  8. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    4,880
    UK London
    By sheer coincidence I was mesmerised by this vid of a blueing tray.

     
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  9. Nick67GT

    Nick67GT Member

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    Glos UK
    If you look in Machineries Handbook, there is a whole section on how to colour metals:


    image.jpg

    Whether or not the chemicals are available or not I don't know.

    Mine is the 20th edition by the way.....
     
  10. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Member

    Messages:
    895
    Tamworth, Staffs
    I can remember in school metalwork in the mid 1970's we made some simple nameplates with our names stamped in with letter punches, the finish on it was done by heating the steel evenly, to just before it got cherry red so it was blue, and then quenching in black dirty engine oil, if memory serves this wasn't a bad looking finish.
     
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  11. clift_d

    clift_d Member

    Messages:
    454
    Location:
    Hackney innit (UK)
    ChrisJ likes this.
  12. colnerov

    colnerov Member

    Messages:
    3,099
    Location:
    Nr Gatwick UK
    Hi, That's what I've done in the past.

    Colin
     
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  13. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
    10,369
    Location:
    UK
    Still do that myself.


    All that stuff is a mild solution of Copper sulphate. Easy to make.
    But needs a finish like wax to protect it.
     
    ChrisJ likes this.
  14. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Member

    Messages:
    895
    Tamworth, Staffs
    I would like to try this on some of my sculptures, would I be correct in buying Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate granules from say Ebay?, and then mixing them into hot water till the solution will not dilute any more of the granules?
     
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  15. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
    10,369
    Location:
    UK
    @ChrisJ
    Buy some copper sulphate from the Bay of Fleas.
    Warm water, add a table spoon at a time.
    Test and cleaned metal.
    If no reaction add more.
    Until you get the finish you want.
    Label container.

    Use to blacken or as a weed killer. Or as a base to copper plate.

    I used it on a chess set I made. Blackened the parts, did not like it.
    So went and copper plated.
     
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  16. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Member

    Messages:
    895
    Tamworth, Staffs
    Thanks :thumbup:
     
  17. There is a better process than the copper solutions but its more expensive. I use a metalblak kit which comes with alkaline degreaser, blacking solution and dewatering oil. I derusted some car parts and blamed them and they seem ok so far. Cost about 30 pounds I think,
     
  18. GrahamHggins

    GrahamHggins Member

    Messages:
    116
    Location:
    London, Barnet.
    It would be for benches and tables - mild steel and to cover welds.

    So I guess a wipe on is what I'm after.
     
  19. nickk Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,796
    Location:
    Hay-on-wye
    when the solution is mixed whats the shelf life?
     
  20. sardine

    sardine Member

    Messages:
    2,845
    Location:
    Buckinghamshire
    Posh Shotgun barrels are "blacked" in a tank of boiling caustic soda based chemical solution, i dont know whats in it but it stings ! small parts are blued by burnishing them and heating to get the colour, it goes light straw, dark straw, blue, purple, the skill is catching the exact point the colour changes, and quenching in neatsfoot oil.

    The blacking is not rust proof in any way, if you leave them wet they will rust overnight. Military weapons are phosphated for a tough finish.
     
    Harry m likes this.
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