- Thread starter AVI_8
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Same here...trying to drill them out always seems to make a bigger mess when I've tried.
If the face is important I use a copper sheet (with a hole) to protect things. I find the mig needs to be 100% aligned with the bolt to work well....and it can take a few attempts especially if working blind!
I've had a couple of stars align in the past . . .always worth a quick check
slim_boy_fat
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Since that's the case, take the extra time to remove the front. I can see it ending in tears otherwise. Sorry....
AVI_8
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Well I went out and used the camera to see how it looked and yes the bolt had snapped off flush but it was also very recessed and even with everything off the front the only tool I’d be able to get to it with without without much other dismantling would be a long drill bit, and I didn’t hold out much hope for that.
And having just removed the entire front end last year on my X5 and what a pain that was I really couldn’t be bothered nor do I have the time at the moment, breakers yards were offering £180 so I stuck it on gumtree for £300 and it was gone within 90 minutes, so problem solved, my enthusiasm keeping these end of life cars on the road isn’t what it used to be, thanks for your advice though.
And having just removed the entire front end last year on my X5 and what a pain that was I really couldn’t be bothered nor do I have the time at the moment, breakers yards were offering £180 so I stuck it on gumtree for £300 and it was gone within 90 minutes, so problem solved, my enthusiasm keeping these end of life cars on the road isn’t what it used to be, thanks for your advice though.
premmington
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This always my approach - washer over snapped bolt then MMA weld a nut to them - I always use 312 rods for this as well.
I've failed dismally trying this on my Ford engine with my 180A Oxford Mig.
I do have a stick welder (but it's an 80A Parkside £50 job just bought to have a play with really as I'd never done any stick welding).
Do you use Stick as it'd hotter & you get a better bond?
premmington
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I use MMA rods so I can use 312 electrodes which have a tensile strength of 760MPa - A18 MIG wire is only 480MPa (6013's are about 430MPa)
Plus 312 will take dillution from nickel coated bolts - every time I MIG Ferite type bolts - the weld just cracks when it cools.
ELGA Cromarod is what I been buying in 2.5mm and 3.2mm.
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If you restricted on how much weld you can get on a broken bolt - you might as well glue it with the highest tensile strength glue you can get!
Beware thou the self releasing slag from stainless mix rods - it pings off just when you lift your welding helmet up.
I know the sum total of naff-all about welding rods, what the numbers mean or what rod to use for what job
premmington
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I know the sum total of naff-all about welding rods, what the numbers mean or what rod to use for what job
312's are known as "dissimilars" - clue is in the title = for welding dissimalar metals together.
I really only stock 312's MMA rods a few 6013's - A18 Mig/Tig wire and Tig brazing wire plus a very few Alloy Tig rods. This covers about everything I wanna make/repair.
Big subject - welding rods - differing voltages/polarity and applications
chrismac
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I totally agree with this approach also, in this case there was the possibility the bolt was not necessarily tight in its threaded hole, I have also seen snapped bolts removed with the very least of persuasion, hence the possibility in this occasion where the OP was trying to do as little stripping of the car as possible to get the bolt removed.
Job done though, sell the car
ajlelectronics
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Nope. Lots of old wives' tales though. Always happened to "my mate down the pub"!
