- Thread starter ttwlr
- Start date
What are you skimming over and why? Give us a proper idea and you're far more likely to get some help.
No matter what you use you will need to prep/key the surface that the filler is going on to - that doesn't necessarily mean removing ALL the paint but you will be removing some.
That said, even with the most wonderful keying job and the filler sticking to the paint left behind so well that a nuclear explosion wouldn't shift it..... it's no good if the surface that the paint was applied to wasn't prepped properly because the filler will still come off - it'll just take the paint with it. Going back to bare metal is a safer bet but not always necessary.
Oh yes - straighten the hole for the lock before you go any further because you'll be sick if you get it painted and polished and then damage the paint doing it or when trying to fit the lock/latch to the distorted hole.
No matter what you use you will need to prep/key the surface that the filler is going on to - that doesn't necessarily mean removing ALL the paint but you will be removing some.
That said, even with the most wonderful keying job and the filler sticking to the paint left behind so well that a nuclear explosion wouldn't shift it..... it's no good if the surface that the paint was applied to wasn't prepped properly because the filler will still come off - it'll just take the paint with it. Going back to bare metal is a safer bet but not always necessary.
Oh yes - straighten the hole for the lock before you go any further because you'll be sick if you get it painted and polished and then damage the paint doing it or when trying to fit the lock/latch to the distorted hole.
The surface is very uneven
If it was down to bare metal what did the filler react with? Reactions with other things like paints wouldn't usually stop a filler from hardening - they would tend to cause bubbling or crazing. Did you mix the filler and hardener properly and in the right proportions?
Filler is never going to make things look pretty when it goes on. Put a smear on when it's clean and when it cures sand over the filler with a block to take off spots that are higher than the surrounding metal. Then put another smear of filler on to build up any low spots. Repeat many times until the surface is smooth.
The process for the rest of the dents will be the same but my earlier comments stand about the paint that's left in there - if it's well applied then just keying it should allow the filler to go on over the top. If there's doubt then it needs to come out and if it really does cause reactions with stuff you put on afterwards then it needs to come out too.
Filler is never going to make things look pretty when it goes on. Put a smear on when it's clean and when it cures sand over the filler with a block to take off spots that are higher than the surrounding metal. Then put another smear of filler on to build up any low spots. Repeat many times until the surface is smooth.
The process for the rest of the dents will be the same but my earlier comments stand about the paint that's left in there - if it's well applied then just keying it should allow the filler to go on over the top. If there's doubt then it needs to come out and if it really does cause reactions with stuff you put on afterwards then it needs to come out too.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Dolphin glaze is stopper to fill the scratches left in filler isn't it? It's only for the last millimetre not for filling the dents. It will not set if it's applied too thick.
Thanks guys,wondering if I’ve miss used the glaze and that’s why not setting, I’m normal ok doing it, but since the glaze it all went wrong, same thing happened on the door, I’ll 180 grit it later and put some filler over it and build it up, once I get it looking good can I then use dolphin glaze to get pin hoes ? Also what is your choice of filler, I normally use U-pol but had to use p38 as didn’t have any. Done me bonnet and that looks good to me
Ashley Burton
Member
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I started using plastic padding ultima & I would never go back to P38
I’ve used ultimate and was really good, I thought I’d was made by upol lol I’m getting some today If in stock.
Ashley Burton
Member
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Bought mine from Halfords with a Trade Card & was a reasonable price!
It's worth getting an Onion Board if you don't already own one?
Ashley Burton
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Should still be decent!
keithski122
Member
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Best advice I was given about filling was to use a heavy grit paper for sanding and a decent size block.Also big spreader for filling, I used an old number plate for my beetle roof.
postie jon
Member
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my workmate when i was serving my time allways said never fill above paint as over time it shrinks back ,he was dead right . upol fillers are good i use galv x, sticks to most plastics too, a long flat block is essential , p40 then 80. just used a normal spreader on big jobs, sorted many farmers hi-lux's and troopers back in the day that had jacknifed with an ifor livestock trailer on , they could never believe it was the same panel repaired, sometimes took the best part of three days filling to get it ready for priming.
Was all looking good until paint started going on, had it all nice a smooth using wet & dry and it felt great, gave light dusting of paint and left it 2 hours, then another light coat, left it 2 hours, don’t a heavier coat left it’s over night, went to look this morning and it’s reacting again not sure where I’m going wrong but starting to pee me off now. I’ve done all the wings and bonnet with no problems
ajlelectronics
Member
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That looks more like excessive build to me. What paint products are you using?
It’s just tins of spray paint primer and paint, I’ve flatted it again and it’s very smooth, will try again before I take a hammer to it
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