Best basecoat

[Rabs]

hi, looking at doing some repairs to a Porsche 964. Will be painting the scuttle as it has some rust that I need to let in some new metal and also things like repair mirrors and possible the bumper. It's a solid black colour but I am planning on going basecoat/clear.

My local paint suppliers have a couple of options on paint system and was wondering what's everyone's preference. The options are PPG, Octoral, Mipa and I think the last one was ICI. What's best, prices are roughly the same.

Plan on using Max Meyer 0200 with 6000 Hardner as have read good things on here and price is not bad. Thanks in advance.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The only one I ever used was solvent based octoral, so far I have had good results, it seemed to give good coverage.

 

[richie00boy]

They are all decent. What would be a consideration is which brand has the best colour match to your paint, but hardly an issue with black, more an issue with metallics and pearls. If you take the car to the paint supplier get them to find the best match and just use that.

 

[ronan]

Hope you don't mind me asking on your thread Rabs. Are basecoats waterbased ? I rang the local paint place today and the guy said solvent based isn't really permitted anymore and its all going waterbased, he has Max Meyer for a reasonable price.

 

[Rabs]

No expert here I believe it's possible to buy both but it depends on what they are being used for.

 

[richie00boy]

Yes they are both available, solvent is by far more common to home users, but still you shouldn't have any trouble at all getting it.

 

[Rabs]

So I have ordered Nexa ICI basecoat online as it was the cheapest deal I could find. My plan is to cut out the rusted metal, put in some new metal. Hopefully then a skim of filler and finishing putty then paint with lechlar TI filler primer. Or should I go with a max Meyer primer to stay with the same company. They have s filler primer also. Have read on here that lots of people rate the lechlar. My concern is using different brands I might have some issues? Then paint basecoat of the areas that requir colour, there is also an area of the scuttle that has a deep scratch so my plan is to only prime the sections that require colour and then cover primer area with basecoat, and then clear the whole scuttle blending in to the A post. This I am concerned about as sounds the really tricky part so will try some fade out spray for the edgesf the laquer. I will scotch the areas that have not been sanded to get a key. Any or guidance would be appreciated?

Apart from a set of alloys with a spray gun this will be first attempt at this so slightly nervous that it will look pants.....i have been practicing welding on spare sheet and have used an old spitfire boot lid to practise letting some metal in, filling and priming and blocking and it's getting ther. I will paint the boot lid first to practise the paining also.

 

[richie00boy]

Its an old wives tale about sticking with the same brand. Modern 2k products shouldn't have any problems. Its when you abuse flash times or film thickness that problems arise.

I'm not sure i would risk a spot repair with paint just from the code though. You might be lucky but you might have the wrong shade. I provide a sample to match.

 

[marlinspike]

Where did you buy the Nexa basecoat , Rab ? Always handy to know reasonably priced suppliers.

 

[Rabs]

Purchased off eBay £24 a litre. Contacted them and they can mix 2k or basecoat for the same price. Cheapest local supplier was £35 + VAT for a litre.

When I contacted the company he said there was only one shade for this colour so would that help with the match?

 

[richie00boy]

There still may be other shades, just that Nexa don't do them. Some cheaper basecoats have a smaller range of codes and shades. But I suppose it narrows chances down a bit.

 

[HughF]

Epoxy primer over the steel after the welding is done before filler or the rust will be back....

 

[richie00boy]

It won't really make much difference if the metal is new. But it can be viewed as a bit extra insurance and will improve adhesion.

 

[HughF]

Every example of filler over welds then straight 2k high build over the top that I have seen, hasn't lasted more than a few years.

I would always advocate epoxy before and after filler for the extra insurance, USA style.

 

[Rabs]

Mmm the whole colour match is a bit of a worry. The plan in the future is to get the whole car sprayed but funds do not allow at the moment. The main thing I have to deal with is getting the rust cut out. Can't leave it any longer. Have had a quote of 600 to do rust repair and paint front of the car which I think is cheap but I know that i would still want the rest of the car painted eventually. It's not really bad but there are marks on most panels so fresh paint at the front