Bed Frame

  1. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Hi, New forum member but been lurking around for a while.

    I am building a bed frame, unfortunately no professional CAD drawing like the previous post which strangely is also a bed.

    I can post pictures later when I have actually done more than just planning but I would like some help choosing the gauge of tubing for the side and 1 centre rails/bearers. I have based my design on a bed I had made in mild steel probably about 20 years ago so at least I have a point of reference.

    My plan is to use stainless 1" (25.4) tube legs with a 2mm wall. Attached to the legs will be some lugs which the bearers will slide on to and secure with a bolt or two.
    For the bearers the existing bed uses 2"x 1" mild steel, however without dismantling I cant be sure what the wall thickness is, probably 2 or 2.5mm.

    First question is about the bearers, I am hoping to get a popular common size to keep costs down. Can anyone suggest what wall thickness I should be using, would 2mm be sufficient or should I be going for 2.5 or 3mm. The cost of 2x1 seems to go up considerably once going aboce 2mm. Or would I be better using two lengths of 1x1 welded together, or maybe 2x1 2mm wall with a piece of 2"x2mm flat bar tacked on to the inside ?

    Also, for the lugs I was going to use stainless square tube with a wall thickness of 2mm, these will be welded to the legs (also 2mm wall). Do you think this will be strong enough ? As a novice welder I was going to TIG weld them, am I likely to catastrophically overheat or blow a hole in 2mm tube ?

    Any suggestions would be helpful.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. pedrobedro

    pedrobedro Man at Matalan

    Messages:
    10,321
    Location:
    CX Derbyshire
    My niece had a tubular bed which I had the pleasure of repairing and can safely say the wall thickness was nowhere near 2mm and was less than 1mm in my estimate. 2mm would be strong enough unless you are big boned or very athletic :ashamed::sheep:
     
  3. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Thanks Pedro, I am indeed big boned (about 90 odd kg after my supper) but no body builder, the missus is about 60kg (she doesnt eat supper). From a quick search the mattress and base are probably about 50 to 70kg, so maybe 220kg. Nearly 1/4 ton which ! That surprised me, maybe I should stop eating supper.

    I'm no expert but 2mm just didnt sound quite enough, but you have put my mind at ease. I suppose there is also a bit of strength in the wood frame of the sprung mattress base. And if it seems to flex I can tack on some flat bar later.

    Any thoughts on a newbie welding 2mm wall tube together ? I could get thicker but cost (and overall weight) go up.
     
  4. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,202
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    2mm will be grand , easy bought and easy worked with ,, the trick with beds is not to forget the two central supports ,,, and practice on some off cuts before you go welding the expensive bits , to keep life simple i would be using 50x25 , remember you need room for slats , and some way of keeping them in place too . ah , your using the old sides ,,, sorry ,, 50 x 25 way to go.
     
  5. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Hi Tom, Not using anything from the old bed, my daughter would complain. No slats either, the mattress sits on a sprung base, I assume its made of something like 3x2 soft wood but it's upholstered so cant be sure. The base sits on the 2 side bearers and I will have one running end to end in the middle of the bed.

    Out of interest, what's the reason for 50x25 as opposed to 2"x1" ? 2x1 seems a bit cheaper thats all.

    Bob
     
  6. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,202
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    2x1 or 50 x25 . all the same really ,, so the mattress isnt supported by the frame at all , its really just a head board and tail board your making , joined with a side rail.
     
  7. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Oh and yes, practice ! I am hiring a TIG from the local supplier, to make sure I can get the hang of it. If it seems like a goer I will but one (probably a Jasic TIG 180).

    Planning on playing at lap and butt joints on some scrap and then on to some spare stainless tube. Lots of youtube to watch and reading on here to do. The youth of today dont know how lucky they are to have such resources at the click of a mouse.
     
    tom2207 likes this.
  8. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,202
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    its addictive ,,, look forwards to hearing about the results.
     
  9. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Hmm, heres where some pictures would help. The metal frame (headboard and foot joined together with the 2x1) is self supporting, on top of it sits a wooden sprung base (upholstered) and on top of that the mattress. So all the weight is supported by the metal frame.
     
  10. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    I will post pictures if not too shameful.
     
  11. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,202
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    draw a sketch ,, or find a pic , if your supporting a sprung base and a mattress off side rails that has to be thought about at this stage.
     
  12. Antibob

    Antibob New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    will do, a job for tomorrow.
     
    tom2207 likes this.
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