Battery cable

[hotponyshoes]

Another simple check,
Turn on the headlights and then crank it over.
If the lights don't dim to nearly nothing then there is a problem with the starter cable.
If they do go really dim the problem is in the engine or starter motor.

 

[Kayos]

Routing isn’t really a big problem on the defender, plenty of room to squeeze in

Not the routing, terminating and handling the stuff

Tried with a competition car and gave up. Might be easier in yours

 

[Parm]

check the quality of fuel. Are you buying supermarket cheapo crap?

 

[mtt.tr]

Have you made sure the wire connect to the batteries

 

[Tinbasherdan]

You can have some if you like but if it's only a defender then 70mm is overkill.
A 3l bmw only uses 50mm and the battery on that is in the boot!

As mentioned above, try sticking a jump lead from the battery to the starter +.
If that doesn't work, try the lead on the ground terminal to the starter body/clean starter bolt and see if that helps first

It’s a 5.9L Cummins 6 cylinder in my defender .
I do admittedly need to try the starter on 24v direct and bypass the changeover relay etc to confirm.
35mm2 was a bit underspecced when I did it if I’m honest, it’s a bloody big starter so it wouldn’t hurt to go bigger in any case

 

[mtt.tr]

It’s a 5.9L Cummins 6 cylinder in my defender .
I do admittedly need to try the starter on 24v direct and bypass the changeover relay etc to confirm.
35mm2 was a bit underspecced when I did it if I’m honest, it’s a bloody big starter so it wouldn’t hurt to go bigger in any case

Having looked, seems to be up 700a in current

Have made sure it's not giving to many or to little 'a'

 

[Parm]

It’s a 5.9L Cummins 6 cylinder in my defender .
I do admittedly need to try the starter on 24v direct and bypass the changeover relay etc to confirm.
35mm2 was a bit underspecced when I did it if I’m honest, it’s a bloody big starter so it wouldn’t hurt to go bigger in any case

Proper snake oil cables required if you don’t mind. everyone knows it has to be oxygen free

 

[Kayos]

@Tinbasherdan are you sure, really really sure you are sat in the drivers seat?

 

[Parm]

One of these ?

 

[Parm]

It’s a 5.9L Cummins 6 cylinder in my defender

****** disgracefu. When you gonna get a real engine ?

 

[J1nx]

Cleveland cables are usually competitive but not sure on small quantities. CEF, yesss, Eddys will order in at higher prices but you’ll probably want to put it on a friendly sparks account or they will have your pants down.

If you had short runs I probably have some lengths already made up in the shed but would be more like half a meter.

 

[Bornfree]

It’s a 5.9L Cummins 6 cylinder in my defender .
I do admittedly need to try the starter on 24v direct and bypass the changeover relay etc to confirm.
35mm2 was a bit underspecced when I did it if I’m honest, it’s a bloody big starter so it wouldn’t hurt to go bigger in any case

Those engine's are normally very easy starting. The bta 180s in ERFs were 24v and the bt 130s in Leyland roadrunners were 12v but still started well.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Those engine's are normally very easy starting. The bta 180s in ERFs were 24v and the bt 130s in Leyland roadrunners were 12v but still started well.

It usually has been to be fair. I can’t see what else it could be. As said, 35mm cable was a bit small for the job anyways but I banked on it being 24v and sucking less amps than the 12v starter.

 

[Parm]

It usually has been to be fair. I can’t see what else it could be. As said, 35mm cable was a bit small for the job anyways but I banked on it being 24v and sucking less amps than the 12v starter.

Why not just have a go with some heavy duty welding cable?

talk to the car nicely and tell it it’s proper cable

 

[anto44]

The best way to test the wiring on something like this is with a voltage drop test. Set your multimeter to volts, put one lead onto the positive pole of the battery and the other onto the positive connection on the starter and crank the engine. The voltage read by the meter while cranking will be how much voltage is lost between the two points

 

[Bornfree]

It usually has been to be fair. I can’t see what else it could be. As said, 35mm cable was a bit small for the job anyways but I banked on it being 24v and sucking less amps than the 12v starter.

It could be a lazy starter motor

 

[Rkweld]

Any motor factors should be able to sort you out, they carry a durite or truck and trailer components book.

Jump leads on starter is good advice. Voltage drop test too.

Can you turn the engine by hand/bar on the front pulley?

has it got heater plugs? Easier to remove to check if it turns over by hand.

Do not jump it until you know there is no fluid on top of the pistons.

Have you lost water? Or made oil/is the oil dieselly smelling?

also is it a manual or auto? Is there a load on the engine thats pulling it down...

 

[Tinbasherdan]

It could be a lazy starter motor

That’s a possibility, it’s had the good old fashioned bfh treatment today in case it was the starter that was stuck

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Any motor factors should be able to sort you out, they carry a durite or truck and trailer components book.

Jump leads on starter is good advice.

Can you turn the engine by hand/bar on the front pulley?

has it got heater plugs? Easier to remove to check if it turns over by hand.

Do not jump it until you know there is no fluid on top of the pistons.

Have you lost water? Or made oil/is the oil dieselly smelling?

also is it a manual or auto? Is there a load on the engine thats pulling it down...

It’s manual- however I do have a fault with the box that appears to be holding it in gear at the moment. Box is coming off soon but wanted to get the old girl spinning over as it’s been a while. No water currently in it so that’s not an issue, and it turns on a bar

 

[Ubique]

That's a fair point, if it's an axial starter, (MT45?) there is two sets of contacts, the first one starts the rotation and throws out the drive dog, once it's all the way out and engaged, the second set of contacts kick in to give it the beans.