Freddy0309
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It would have been ideal for my stepdad but he won't be ready for a mill for another few months yet, although I'm amazed that it hasn't sold yet
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Kram
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Theres a lot of tools you will want, what are you going to make?
ER32 collet set, dial indicator, indexer or rotary table, boring head, decent vice, cutters and a ton of metal...
Indexing/rotary table will eat up table space
Small mills are flimsy, see them in the shop before you buy. Suprised me how small the warco ones are.
Milling can be done on a lathe, and turning on a mill, but the you'll want more tooling. Id say small lathes are better at milling than small mills, just limited travel to 4" square.. Good for small stuff.
ER32 collet set, dial indicator, indexer or rotary table, boring head, decent vice, cutters and a ton of metal...
Indexing/rotary table will eat up table space
Small mills are flimsy, see them in the shop before you buy. Suprised me how small the warco ones are.
Milling can be done on a lathe, and turning on a mill, but the you'll want more tooling. Id say small lathes are better at milling than small mills, just limited travel to 4" square.. Good for small stuff.
C
Chris Stevens
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Whats the best way to set up a small lathe (Bantam) for milling? I would like a mill, but dont have much space and have tried a ROC mill/drill in the past, adapting lathe seems a good idea.
Kram
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The vertical slide is important. Most are flimsy and only attach with one or two bolts, they need a dowel or boss to locate so it wont move.
Most slides are too small so Id recommend a lathe cross slide bolted to a large angle plate. Some have adjustable angles but you can do the same thing by setting your vice. You need a good vice, clamping is not fun when working vertically.
Most slides are too small so Id recommend a lathe cross slide bolted to a large angle plate. Some have adjustable angles but you can do the same thing by setting your vice. You need a good vice, clamping is not fun when working vertically.
C
Chris Stevens
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Thanks will have to take a look at that............certainly seems a good idea in terms of not taking up anymore space.
addjunkie
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You can mill on a lathe easily, all you need is an angle plate really, as long as you set your work up in the correct orientation.
Bit of a pain but it can be done. I made a set of yokes like this once. The lathe i used was a warco one about the same size as the bantam, that had t slots on the cross slide, specifically for milling.
The vetical plane increases usability. You could actually make your own adjustable set up, just make it lockable and always cut using the cross slide.
Where you would be really restricted would be mounting rotary tables or dividing heads.
Bit of a pain but it can be done. I made a set of yokes like this once. The lathe i used was a warco one about the same size as the bantam, that had t slots on the cross slide, specifically for milling.
The vetical plane increases usability. You could actually make your own adjustable set up, just make it lockable and always cut using the cross slide.
Where you would be really restricted would be mounting rotary tables or dividing heads.
I have a sieg X1L from ArcEuroTrade. I find it an excellent machine. It has an MT2 spindle the larger X2 has an MT3 spindle.
I have made some modifications and tooling for my X1L, see:http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/mill-modifications-and-tooling.html
Mike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122036786932?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This may have some potential-- nowt to do with me and umpteen miles away from the North-East
And postage is only £4.89
Stan
This may have some potential-- nowt to do with me and umpteen miles away from the North-East
And postage is only £4.89
Stan
Pete.
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Interesting little machine. Advert says it's complete but it clearly is missing the top cover and the cover for the main post. Doesn't suffer from the indexing problems common to many round-post mills because it looks like it has a very substantial slotted way in the column. Rise and fall by bevel gear and screw but sadly no apparent quill.
Collets look bespoke. Look like W20 at first glance but I think the w20 has buttress thread collets but that Blohm seems to have vee-thread ones.
Given the other stuff they have listed there could well be stuff Lying around belonging to machines.
Stan
It's also collection only...not posted.
It has.
Freddy0309
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Just to update, I'm getting the sx2 from axminister tools, this one http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-model-engineer-series-sx2-mini-mill-505099 so as I've stated I know quite literally bugger all about milling, Earlier on in this thread a collet set was advised, so going to start trawling through eBay to try and find one, but got a quick question about tooling, I know how a collet works so I'm assuming (maybe incorrectly) that a collet would hold onto any size tooling that you have a collet for, but how can you tell the difference between mt 1/2/3/4 tooling? It says it has a mt 3 with 3 draw bars 10/12/ or 3/8ths so how can I tell the difference as most ads I've seen on eBay just says shank size regardless if there's a thread on the end.
Kram
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You can buy MT collets, they will fit in the taper and give you the least overhang from the spindle. They are 5 quid or so each and dont have much range?
The larger ER collets have a 1mm range and a set of ER32 1-20mm is about 30 quid. They also need a collet chuck, about 15 quid.
The smaller ER11 size, you will get both collet set and chuck for 8 quid delivered, but is only 1-7mm range.
Drawbar screws into the collet or collet holder, stops it pulling out. With MT collets it is also what holds the collet in, theres no thread on the cutter end.
Morse taper tooling requires a light tap with a rubber mallet to pop it out the spindle. This is annoying, probably more on a mill.
If you have not bought it yet other sellers (warco, amadeal, arc euro) do the same size machine but with a tilting head, instead of tilting column, which will make it much more rigid.
The larger ER collets have a 1mm range and a set of ER32 1-20mm is about 30 quid. They also need a collet chuck, about 15 quid.
The smaller ER11 size, you will get both collet set and chuck for 8 quid delivered, but is only 1-7mm range.
Drawbar screws into the collet or collet holder, stops it pulling out. With MT collets it is also what holds the collet in, theres no thread on the cutter end.
Morse taper tooling requires a light tap with a rubber mallet to pop it out the spindle. This is annoying, probably more on a mill.
If you have not bought it yet other sellers (warco, amadeal, arc euro) do the same size machine but with a tilting head, instead of tilting column, which will make it much more rigid.
Freddy0309
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To be honest I was going to order it from axminister as it higher specs then noticed it had 3 different drill/face/end values so spoke to them and apparently it was the lowest values was correct so I'm open to other suggestions
addjunkie
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http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/...-Set-of-15pc-Collets--12mm-drawbar--2169.html
This is the type of collet chuck set you want, basically a piece of 12mm threaded bar goes down through the spindle, and pulls the mt3 taper on the chuck in to the taper and holds it there. The cutters then with a parrallel shank go into the correct size collet. Much easier than the separate collets. You will then want some kind of face cutter, a fly cutter is the cheapest option. I always tend to buy long series mills, find that bit of extra reach makes things easier for me. An indexing boring head is a recomened purchase too. I also have a lazer pointer i find very useful when setting up.
You will also need a clamp kit, and a vice or two. Hope you have been saving up. The sets from chronos, rdg, etc are fine for diy use, as are the indexing boring heads etc.
If as said earlier youve not yet ordered warco , amadeal, arc eurotrade etc etc all come from the same factories im sure.
Another point to note, spindle nose to table distance. This doesnt include the drill chuck, so that space is sharp eaten up with a vice, boring head etc.
This is the type of collet chuck set you want, basically a piece of 12mm threaded bar goes down through the spindle, and pulls the mt3 taper on the chuck in to the taper and holds it there. The cutters then with a parrallel shank go into the correct size collet. Much easier than the separate collets. You will then want some kind of face cutter, a fly cutter is the cheapest option. I always tend to buy long series mills, find that bit of extra reach makes things easier for me. An indexing boring head is a recomened purchase too. I also have a lazer pointer i find very useful when setting up.
You will also need a clamp kit, and a vice or two. Hope you have been saving up. The sets from chronos, rdg, etc are fine for diy use, as are the indexing boring heads etc.
If as said earlier youve not yet ordered warco , amadeal, arc eurotrade etc etc all come from the same factories im sure.
Another point to note, spindle nose to table distance. This doesnt include the drill chuck, so that space is sharp eaten up with a vice, boring head etc.
addjunkie
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http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/AMA16VF---with-Fine-Feed-and-DRO-AMA_MI_16VAWE.html#SID=16 Could be a contender similar money!
Screwdriver
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You've seen my George Taylor for sale?
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...f-unit-burner-bulbs-mower-engine.65103/page-3
S.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...f-unit-burner-bulbs-mower-engine.65103/page-3
S.
Freddy0309
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I've pm'd you
