- Thread starter Ben88
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Ben88
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Yeah got it figured out was I correct in putting small cog on motor? I've done a few cuts got it squared up across material just got a slight slope on the down cut, I've squared the blade using rollers but it's as if the saw itself is out any way of adjusting it?
Richard.
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If your roller cradle looks like this you can adjust the the vertical cutting.
You see the top bolt head.
Back that off and the whole cradle will become loose and allow you to twist it slightly either way which will allow you to offer a twist on the blade. It takes some doing to get it fine tuned where the blade needs to be. Check it with a square like so before wasting tonnes of material cutting.
I have never felt the need to start adding weight to the bow on my saw as I control the down pressure with a damper I fitted to it. The bow is plenty heavy enough with the damper backed off. Too much down pressure and you'll jump the blade or bust it.
You see the top bolt head.
Back that off and the whole cradle will become loose and allow you to twist it slightly either way which will allow you to offer a twist on the blade. It takes some doing to get it fine tuned where the blade needs to be. Check it with a square like so before wasting tonnes of material cutting.
I have never felt the need to start adding weight to the bow on my saw as I control the down pressure with a damper I fitted to it. The bow is plenty heavy enough with the damper backed off. Too much down pressure and you'll jump the blade or bust it.
Ben88
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Your advise has been top notch cheers guys nearly there on the vertical slope it's close enough now really just under 1mm over a 60 mm cut, I do strive for perfection tho ha, well it was going well until blade got jammed an came off. I put the blade back on but when I went to put tension on the blade it pulled the drive pulley slightly an just span till it hit the stop at back and the tension knob started turning on the shaft so I've stuck it back on with some lock-tite, I went around tightening all the bolts on the saw as a few were lose ish I'm wondering if maybe I've tightened one of the bolts on the sliding bracket or something. I didn't have time to mess with it got late so I'll have a look tomorrow night
Ben88
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I didn't even say that when I'm turning the tension knob the blade tightens a bit then stops an the blade is still slack so not pulling the pulley wheel enough I took the tension Handle out an the thread seems fine an runs down it as it should. As for the coolant that can be a project for down the line I'll be with the saw while it's cutting so I'll just keep giving it a squirt seemed to work great.
Ben88
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GW8IZR
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When I bought mine it had a similar problem ( mine is a Clarke but they are all very similar ) it turned out that in the pack of blades one was about 1 inch longer than all the rest and that was the one that came out of the bag first.
edit- which is what Richard said above but I'm a slow typerist :-)
edit- which is what Richard said above but I'm a slow typerist :-)
Richard.
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Also Ben I'd be looking to get better than 1mm run off over 60mm
I know that doesn't sound a lot but it is when your butting your cut edges. Mitre joints for example. If they both run off by 1mm you then have a 2mm gap potentially to contend with. I've got mine cutting true to within 0.2mm over 50mm.
Round bar or tube is best to check run off because you can measure it all the way round after your cut to know exactly where you need to fettle the adjustment. I went through a good few metres of aluminium tube when I built mine to get it as true as it is. Cut a fine slither off and measure the thickness all the way round to see where it's running off then fettle it ,rotate the tube round in the vice 180 deg so you don't cut from the top point again and cut another slither. Keep doing this until the thickness of the slither is near on bang on all the way round. Then your cuts will be true. Expect to spend time on it.
Ben88
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Ben88
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so there 3 Allen keys on the adjustable plate an elevation bolt for lining the wheel up correctly the middle one is the part that is fixed to the wheel which should be bolted firmly down an the other is the bolt that locates into the barrel which in turn has the thread running through the barrel, an when you screw the knob it should be pulling the wheel towards the knob to tighten it up. When I remove the thread from the barrel it's free to move up an down the slot.
Richard.
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That doesn't make sense though. If it was a manufacturing fault it wouldn't of been holding the blade and taking the cuts. I think he's sheared, twisted, bent, bust or snapped something when he threw the blade.
Ben both the big idler wheel and the part you photo'd are connected to the sliding carrier. As you wind the handle in it draws the sliding carrier which the big idle wheel is connected too. Have you actually checked this is happening. Is the carrier moving and is it moving the idle wheel behind the cover?
Ben88
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No it's not moving the idle wheel with it, I think it might just be the knob that's turning on the shaft an not picking it up, cause how else can it not be working the threads are fine the fixing bolt isn't getting in the way of the tensioning thread. If one thing I can take from this I'm learning. I appreciate the help
