Band saw Gear Oil Help

[powderblast]

Hi all i have been using my band saw this weekend and there was a terrible grinding coming from the Motor/Gearbox area, i removed the large blade turn wheel turned it back on and it sounded great refitted the turn wheel and the noise come back so i have removed one of the bearings which i think its coming from and when i turn it in my hands there is a rough sound and feel to it so i have ordered a bearing which says its a 6207 rs i could only find a 6207 2rs which a have researched and the difference is the rubber seals so that should be fine and hopefully cure the problem, anyways a bit of a long story but i noticed the gearbox oil was a little low so i topped up with what i had hydraulic oil iso 32 i was told this was ok for the lathe so i assume it would be ok in the band saw but i am just looking at the manual now for it and it says use API 40CD gearbox oil i was going to install this new bearing and flush the oil out and fill with the right stuff but i cannot find it any were do any of you lot know were to get it or has it changed to some thing different now?

 

[hotponyshoes]

Api CD spec current equivalent is CF spec.
Something like morris sae 40 classic oil would be the closest to the original but that's suitable for classic engines and gearboxes.
On something relatively low speed and load like this I would just be using something like triple qx gear oil from eurocarparts or if it was a bit of kit I didn't use that often maybe even Castrol magnatec as it's more likely to be corrosion on the gears causing wear than wearing them out from use

 

[powderblast]

Api CD spec current equivalent is CF spec.
Something like morris sae 40 classic oil would be the closest to the original but that's suitable for classic engines and gearboxes.
On something relatively low speed and load like this I would just be using something like triple qx gear oil from eurocarparts or if it was a bit of kit I didn't use that often maybe even Castrol magnatec as it's more likely to be corrosion on the gears causing wear than wearing them out from use

just had a look on euro and there is a few 80w, 90w or 75w-80 api gl4/5???? would any do been reading on other forums and people go on about brass wear??

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

A band saw I helped to restored had open bearings, the owner supplied new bearings, but they had a seal on.

But my local bearing supplier ordered in new bearings with out the seal, cheaper than the sealed ones.
They recommended a Morris Gear oil.


To flush the gear box unit out.
Filled with brake fluid, shock it. Drained it filled with the recommended oil.

 

[Lazurus]

Any oil is better than no oil......... - RS sealed bearing will be sealed for life with grease within, do they run in the oil or not. If in the oil the seals will serve no benefit. They are designed to keep dust and swarf out and are not serviceable.

 

[powderblast]

Any oil is better than no oil......... - RS sealed bearing will be sealed for life with grease within, do they run in the oil or not. If in the oil the seals will serve no benefit. They are designed to keep dust and swarf out and are not serviceable.

the bearing does not run in any oil and there appears to be three of these bearing what i can see 2 on the gearbox side and this on is the one were the shaft runs through and hold the blade turn wheel, i am also unsure on the age of the machine and the brand as i bought it second hand attached pics

 

[powderblast]

Api CD spec current equivalent is CF spec.
Something like morris sae 40 classic oil would be the closest to the original but that's suitable for classic engines and gearboxes.
On something relatively low speed and load like this I would just be using something like triple qx gear oil from eurocarparts or if it was a bit of kit I didn't use that often maybe even Castrol magnatec as it's more likely to be corrosion on the gears causing wear than wearing them out from use

Changed the bearing and it's still the same but when its under tension with the blade it is not half as bad I'm unsure whether or not the full gearbox needs the bearings replaced but I think it would make sense to get a price on this to be done right I'm going to use halford gl4 gearbox oil and run it see how long its last until it become really noisy I've attached a pic of the oil would it be ok to use it

 

[hotponyshoes]

If it was my machine I would be happy to use that.
If I was running it all day every day I might put in a bit of effort to find the proper stuff but for something that will only be getting a couple of hours a week as said above any oil is better than no oil.
That Halfords one is a multi-grade oil, designed to work in as many cars as possible so there is a good chance it's going to be fine unless the saw gears are made out of an unusual material? (I see you mention brass above but that saw looks a bit modern to be using brass gears)

 

[doubleboost]

i used the one shot lube
that is used in land rover tractor joints
nice and thick and stickey

 

[powderblast]

If it was my machine I would be happy to use that.
If I was running it all day every day I might put in a bit of effort to find the proper stuff but for something that will only be getting a couple of hours a week as said above any oil is better than no oil.
That Halfords one is a multi-grade oil, designed to work in as many cars as possible so there is a good chance it's going to be fine unless the saw gears are made out of an unusual material? (I see you mention brass above but that saw looks a bit modern to be using brass gears)

To be honest I'm unsure what the gearbox is and also the brand of the saw I have the manual but it really does not tell you anything I will get that gl4 then as for the rumbling it's not really noticeably now I have the blade on

 

[powderblast]

i used the one shot lube
that is used in land rover tractor joints
nice and thick and stickey

Never used the stuff before??? But i have checked the manual and it says use API 40CD grade gear oil

 

[Carl Wilson]

You could change the bearings yourself, bearing boys are very reasonable and the decent priced Dunlop bearings they sell (made in Latvia) are good.

I guess the main thing that needs lube in these boxes is the worm gear as it has a big contact area. I have read that EP additives as used in some gear oils can attack yellow metals. I'm not sure how factual that is.

Bit of an edit - I just did a quick bit of background reading. It appears that the sulphur and phosphorous in EP additives will corrode any copper based alloy.

 

[Barlidge]

I've got a clarke one and one of the gearbox bearings was shot, they were metal shielded and I replaced both with these from simply bearings. Luckily it was the top one that was shot above the seal and the oil in the box was still clean. When it comes out of storage I will change the oil anyway so watching this thread.

 

[Carl Wilson]

Its funny isnt it, these saws are all the same but badged up differently, just like the Rong Fu mill clone. I wonder which one was the first iteration?

I used to have one like Barlidge's, it was a Chester. Now I have this one:-

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbs7mb-metal-cutting-bandsaw/

Except that it is badged up as a SIP.

 

[powderblast]

You could change the bearings yourself, bearing boys are very reasonable and the decent priced Dunlop bearings they sell (made in Latvia) are good.

I guess the main thing that needs lube in these boxes is the worm gear as it has a big contact area. I have read that EP additives as used in some gear oils can attack yellow metals. I'm not sure how factual that is.

Bit of an edit - I just did a quick bit of background reading. It appears that the sulphur and phosphorous in EP additives will corrode any copper based alloy.

I have replaced one bearing which did not cure the noise I did try taking it apart but after banging in on it for a while I built it back up I tried to find a yt vid or pics on how to replace the bearings but got no joy my concern was if I crack or damage anything I do not know if a replacement could be sourced so I was going to just run it and see if it get worse hopefully stays like it is for a while

 

[powderblast]

If it was my machine I would be happy to use that.
If I was running it all day every day I might put in a bit of effort to find the proper stuff but for something that will only be getting a couple of hours a week as said above any oil is better than no oil.
That Halfords one is a multi-grade oil, designed to work in as many cars as possible so there is a good chance it's going to be fine unless the saw gears are made out of an unusual material? (I see you mention brass above but that saw looks a bit modern to be using brass gears)

Been in touch with comma they make the halfords stuff and he said that is as close to the original they do but there is additives in the blend which will affect yellow metals so be aware?

So I have looked on ebay to see if there is anything that says yellow metal safe and I found this would this be a better choice I have also messaged them to see what they say

 

[Carl Wilson]

Sorry mate I didn't realise you'd already changed one of the bearings. So I Re read your original post.

 

[powderblast]

Sorry mate I didn't realise you'd already changed one of the bearings. So I Re read your original post.

yeah i replaced one of the hoping it would cure it but no joy i had a go at taking it apart but looks a bit challenging so im thinking whilst i can still use it as is just use it until it gets worse then maybe find a local company who will do the work as i have looked for parts or replacement but could not find anything plus im unsure of the brand so unable to contact anyone, its a brilliant bandsaw and alot cheaper for replacement blades than my evo 355 carbide cut off saw that thing would bankrupt me lol so i only use that when i have to

 

[powderblast]

Ended up going with the one in pic i got a message back from them and they said this will be closest to spec and is safe on yellow metals. Do any of you lot know of any were to get this gearbox reconditioned/replacement bearings fitted if it gets worse some were around Hull would be ideal?

 

[Carl Wilson]

You should post some pictures as I'm sure you would get a lot of help in stripping the gearbox to change the bearing from people here.

If I was closer I'd be willing to have a look for you. I'm sure there's plenty more here closer who would too.