Automotive welding, mig vs tig

[tom2207]

You still miss the point, you've never even tried it so you don't have any experience so your opinion of tig welding car panels is of no value as you have 0 experience.

Please do a thread on the Aston, would love to see it.

If I take my phone with me I will ,,, but I usually dont , as it fills up with metal dust and stops working , but if I remember I will take a few pics , at the end of the day its just another old car with holes in it.
Bently is after that , and then a series 2 safari land rover , but its a bigger challenge than the other two as Ive to make a bulkhead out of two bits and copy the rest from half an old one I have kept to the side ,,,, again I should take pics , if I remember I will.

 

[tom2207]

You still miss the point, you've never even tried it so you don't have any experience so your opinion of tig welding car panels is of no value as you have 0 experience.

Please do a thread on the Aston, would love to see it.

There is no point in trying to tig car panels in situ if I thought there was I would do it , but I really dont see the need . Old metal, compound curves, poor access and out of position tig just does not give me the results Im happy with . The point is that if I thought there was any advantage in doing so , I would.

 

[8ob]

There is no point in trying to tig car panels in situ if I thought there was I would do it , but I really dont see the need . Old metal, compound curves, poor access and out of position tig just does not give me the results Im happy with . The point is that if I thought there was any advantage in doing so , I would.

Not so sure Tom, I would be happier tig welding wafer thin car panels in position than with a mig. Cant always take these things off and roll them around on a bench.

Bob

 

[Robbie260]

I can see no reason what so ever to use tig on a car ,,,, why would you even want to ?

My next jobs an Aston Martin and it wont see a tig at all ,,, the job does not warrant it ,, it will be better all round done with mig , so it will be , if it was an alloy panel I would have it on the bench and do the job properly with either gas or tig , but I tend not to be sticking mot patches on , thats for other people round here and most of them dont speak english but they are fast and cheap ............ and the work reflects that .

Most car restoration that uses tig in situ is bescause the joint is often not having filler added to it and you are just fusing the panels together the gaps should be that small.

The use of tig without adding filler means flatter or slightly concave welds meaning no finishing is required other than a skim of filler.

It’s a productivity and speed thing too, you aren’t spending time grinding down welds in possibly difficult to access areas to get a nice finish. Also no chance of damaging the panel with a grinder slipping or adding unwanted heat and distorting it. Much less heat input with tig if done properly too.

 

[anto44]

I have used tig on the car a few times but mig is my first choice all day long. Like @premmington the only real time I use the tig is for brazing. If you're into doing modifications to good panels then tig is a good choice, I welded a pair of vents cut out of one car into the front wings of his car and I used tig for that but it was good thick clean metal and perfect fit up.
Using tig to do a standard mot rust patch up is a different story, chances are that kind of job doesn't justify the extra work required to do it with tig

 

[James1979]

Here’s an odd one to throw a spanner in the works……

What’s the general consensus on tiggin modern vehicles with CAN lines etc? I was told it’s a bad thing because all the HF floating about?

I’m the same as @premmington really, TIG on the bench if it needs and mig under the vehicle. Mainly because I am not good (yet ) at positional TIG

 

[anto44]

I always use lift tig for dc on the car to avoid any hf issues, if you're using ac you've no choice but to use hf so just have to be extra careful I guess.

 

[premmington]

I have used tig on the car a few times but mig is my first choice all day long. Like [B]@premmington the only real time I use the tig is for brazing[/B]. If you're into doing modifications to good panels then tig is a good choice, I welded a pair of vents cut out of one car into the front wings of his car and I used tig for that but it was good thick clean metal and perfect fit up.
Using tig to do a standard mot rust patch up is a different story, chances are that kind of job doesn't justify the extra work required to do it with tig

I am really into TIG brazing for repair work - DC in pure argon.

@anto44 What are you using for rods and where do you get them?

 

[anto44]

I am really into TIG brazing for repair work - DC in pure argon.

@anto44 What are you using for rods and where do you get them?

I'm using sifphosphor bronze no 8 that I got from welding supplies direct. I've also tried 4047 for brazing but it was a waste of time. I have tried using copper wire and that worked very well with tig

 

[premmington]

I always use lift tig for dc on the car to avoid any hf issues, if you're using ac you've no choice but to use hf so just have to be extra careful I guess.

I also use "lift arc" on vehicles....

 

[tom2207]

Most car restoration that uses tig in situ is bescause the joint is often not having filler added to it and you are just fusing the panels together the gaps should be that small.

The use of tig without adding filler means flatter or slightly concave welds meaning no finishing is required other than a skim of filler.

It’s a productivity and speed thing too, you aren’t spending time grinding down welds in possibly difficult to access areas to get a nice finish. Also no chance of damaging the panel with a grinder slipping or adding unwanted heat and distorting it. Much less heat input with tig if done properly too.

that I do with gas , its a slightly broader spread of heat , and far more forgiving dirt wise , I find the broader spread of heat causes less local issues at the edge of the haz as the heat is brought in slower and cooled slower

what do you need the filler for , if its welded properly you dont need filler at all , well I dont.

 

[tom2207]

Not so sure Tom, I would be happier tig welding wafer thin car panels in position than with a mig. Cant always take these things off and roll them around on a bench.

Bob

at that point Im reaching for the gas , as per the last post ,,, its kinder by far than any tig.

 

[premmington]

at that point Im reaching for the gas , as per the last post ,,, its kinder by far than any tig.

I liked gas welding on cars. Not got any Acetylene about now - not had any for years. Just Oxy/Propane for heating.

All other welding is MIG/TIG/MMA...

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Gas is electrical/electronic safe for sure!

 

[Robbie260]

that I do with gas , its a slightly broader spread of heat , and far more forgiving dirt wise , I find the broader spread of heat causes less local issues at the edge of the haz as the heat is brought in slower and cooled slower

what do you need the filler for , if its welded properly you dont need filler at all , well I dont.

No need for it vast majority of the time only if there is a gap that needs bridging I use it.

 

[tom2207]

No need for it vast majority of the time only if there is a gap that needs bridging I use it.

lol ,,, I meant body filler. I add filler rod when I need to ,,, but why would you be needing body filler , its horrid stuff , just a couple of coats of primer , one etch and one high build and all is good .

 

[Robbie260]

lol ,,, I meant body filler. I add filler rod when I need to ,,, but why would you be needing body filler , its horrid stuff , just a couple of coats of primer , one etch and one high build and all is good .

Ah right got you. Don’t need it often, it is horrible stuff.

 

[tom2207]

Ah right got you. Don’t need it often, it is horrible stuff.

much as its frowned upon , I still use lead , if I have to . just dont tell anyone as the safety boys dont seem to like it much , then again DILLIGAF