Audiolab M-DAC Nano Headphone socket repair

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Thanks Ed, that's a very kind offer but....
Out of curiosity I've just tried holding the socket in place on the 3 intact pads and... it works!
I'll break out the soldering iron, reattach them and glue the socket to the board, all being well it will sort it.
Thanks for all the advice everyone, much appreciated.

Pop something that will peel off in the top casing. Can get some hot glue on top as well then without making disassembly difficult I. The future. Gonna be a weak point now.

 

[julianf]

The part is surface mount but that's just because the rest of the board is. They're no real miniturisation of the headphone jack, as, indeed, there can't be.

Just solder it back with an iron with a pointy tip, same as you would through hole.

Make life easy on yourself and get some lead solder (any of the normal electronics supply places will sell it) as the melting point is lower, and you will be less tempted to dwell long enough to melt things.

When soldering (which I try and avoid doing now, but I've done more than my fair share) I tend to crank the iron up hotter than others might say is sensible and use less time. Personally I find that works for me.

 

[sako243]

Don't need leaded solder these days. There's some really good lead free stuff around - use stuff made by Rosin I think it is.

@Wozzaaah just be wary that you're not making intermittent contact with some pads underneath. They can be very annoying if it's intermittent. If they are electrically connected then it'd be worth chasing the tracks with a meter and find where they are connected to and bridge it with a wire.

 

[mtt.tr]

Don't need leaded solder these days. There's some really good lead free stuff around - use stuff made by Rosin I think it is.

@Wozzaaah just be wary that you're not making intermittent contact with some pads underneath. They can be very annoying if it's intermittent. If they are electrically connected then it'd be worth chasing the tracks with a meter and find where they are connected to and bridge it with a wire.

Rosin is the flux.

Multicore lead free is nice, though i still have rolls liberated when my dad was still working as an EE

 

[Wozzaaah]

The part is surface mount but that's just because the rest of the board is. They're no real miniturisation of the headphone jack, as, indeed, there can't be.

Just solder it back with an iron with a pointy tip, same as you would through hole.

Make life easy on yourself and get some lead solder (any of the normal electronics supply places will sell it) as the melting point is lower, and you will be less tempted to dwell long enough to melt things.

When soldering (which I try and avoid doing now, but I've done more than my fair share) I tend to crank the iron up hotter than others might say is sensible and use less time. Personally I find that works for me.

I've got a roll of Multicore 0.7mm, it's maybe a little big for this job but it's all I've got that's any good.
I've also got an almost full roll of lead-free stuff which I could never get on with, I've maybe used 5cm max just trying it out.
My main issue is my eyesight, old age is definitely creeping in.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I've got a roll of Multicore 0.7mm, it's maybe a little big for this job but it's all I've got that's any good.
I've also got an almost full roll of lead-free stuff which I could never get on with, I've maybe used 5cm max just trying it out.
My main issue is my eyesight, old age is definitely creeping in.

Grabbed that today and have a set of headbang magnifier lenses with led on route to help with that.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Send it me, I’ll do it FOC.

 

[Wozzaaah]

Grabbed that today and have a set of headbang magnifier lenses with led on route to help with that.

View attachment 279416

I have one of those and a headband (not bang ) maginifier which I tend to use an awful lot these days.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I have one of those and a headband (not bang ) maginifier which I tend to use an awful lot these days.

Managed just about to solder these by eye.
Wasn't easy though.
Just practice boards ready for the main event. 2.5mm braid for scale.

 

[ajlelectronics]

It is a doddle with the right kit. Not sure if I have shown some examples of what I work on?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

It is a doddle with the right kit. Not sure if I have shown some examples of what I work on?

That's why I spent a few quid on some gear this week. Give me a fighting chance. Never used smd before but after a bit or research I bought a new iron with a blower and recon I can pull it off

 

[ajlelectronics]

That's why I spent a few quid on some gear this week. Give me a fighting chance. Never used smd before but after a bit or research I bought a new iron with a blower and recon I can pull it off

It is a steep learning curve. Solder paste goes on the pads, then the component. Heat it evenly and you will see the flux start to run. Shortly afterwards, the component will wiggle itself into position accurately as the solder flows. Inspect ICs carefully. Any shorted legs can be dealt with by solder wick.

Don't go mad with paste under ICs, it is possible to have paste that gets stuck, leading to strange short circuits that you can't see without relifting it.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

It is a steep learning curve. Solder paste goes on the pads, then the component. Heat it evenly and you will see the flux start to run. Shortly afterwards, the component will wiggle itself into position accurately as the solder flows. Inspect ICs carefully. Any shorted legs can be dealt with by solder wick.

Don't go mad with paste under ICs, it is possible to have paste that gets stuck, leading to strange short circuits that you can't see without relifting it.

Pic above was all done with paste
Still waiting on some thin solder and flux . Typically it's last to arrive.

 

[Wozzaaah]

That's why I spent a few quid on some gear this week. Give me a fighting chance. Never used smd before but after a bit or research I bought a new iron with a blower and recon I can pull it off

What kit did you buy? At the moment I have a Lidl “Parkside” digital one and it does me ok but hey, we all love new toys.
I've been putting in a lot of extra hours at work recently, I deserve to treat myself.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

What kit did you buy? At the moment I have a Lidl “Parkside” digital one and it does me ok but hey, we all love new toys.
I've been putting in a lot of extra hours at work recently, I deserve to treat myself.

Absolute bargain for my needs

Had to buy a selection of tips to go with the iron but works well.
Air gun is spot on.

8586 Solder Station and SMD Rework Hot air 2in1 Soldering Iron HUAKKO | eBay

This 8586 is HUAKKO's new soft air hot air gun + soldering iron two-in-one disordering station. There is only one temperature display window, but it can display the hot air gun temperature and the soldering iron temperature by pressing the button.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Tips if you go that route

Soldering Iron Tips Solder Tip 900M-T For 936 907 898D 936d Soldering Station UK | eBay

There are 10 types, from which you can choose one that suits your different welding needs. Suitable for welding stands 936, 937, 938, 969, 8586, 852D. 10pcs x iron tip. Made of high quality oxygen free copper, with fast electrical conductivity.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Wozzaaah]

That looks like a proper bargain!

 

[Wozzaaah]

“Disordering station”

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

That looks like a proper bargain!

Generic design and plenty about. Opinions seem favourable even from people used to high end kit.


Wouldn't want to use it for production but for our needs it's a steal.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

“Disordering station”

The instruction manual states


An instruction Manual.
Made me smile
I've no complaints