Arc problem

[Gingle]

So when arc welding,my visor goes dark ,I can see the puddle but not the object I'm welding if that makes sense,so can I turn the sentivity nob on the side of the helmet down .So I can see the puddle and the object at the same time ,or is it IV not enough light in the shed

 

[Mark 2]

Sensitivity or shade?

 

[redlig]

So when arc welding,my visor goes dark ,I can see the puddle but not the object I'm welding if that makes sense,so can I turn the sentivity nob on the side of the helmet down .So I can see the puddle and the object at the same time ,or is it IV not enough light in the shed

Try it and find out.

 

[Gingle]

Number 13

 

[Gingle]

Which dial should I turn to be able to see puddle and object,or is this not advised

 

[tom2207]

adjust the shade a bit ,,, should help , but its always a compromise , the sensitivity is how fast it goes dark / light , it again is a balance act between getting flashed and having to wait at the end for the glow to go and the mask to lighten again ,,,, remember to take the protective film off a new mask too,

 

[Gingle]

Thanks

 

[Mark 2]

So the knob on the outside of the helmet is for shade. Don't go below 9 for welding.

 

[Gingle]

Thanks great ,it's easy to be told than read these leaflets,as a DIY arc welder

 

[waddycall]

Make sure you can clearly focus on what you’re welding before you put the mask on and weld. I have different strengths of reading glasses which I need to be able to see the weld clearly. I always stick my head the right distance away from what I’m going to weld and in the right position and check I can see what I’m doing before putting the mask on and welding.

 

[voipio]

It will be ok to go down one or two shade settings, to see if that improves matters. The calibration of the lens shade value is not particularly good, and can easily differ by a couple of shades between helmets, for a given setting. In any case, the helmet lens should provide adequate protection from the UV light in the arc, so arc eye shouldn't be a problem.

The other thing that will help is to have plenty of light on the subject. Think 500W tungsten halogen "(in)security light" or a 50W LED equivalent, about a metre away from the part being welded. Or try welding in direct sunlight. There seems to be plenty of that around, at the moment!!

 

[Gingle]

Magic thanks

 

[Gingle]

Light seems the problem,so I got a torch that worked great,even In proved the weld,so IV order this

 

[Gingle]

Another problem IV come across is ,when I'm using arc rod got a puddle then like a flame thrower from the end of rod whats happening,I did have to bridge some gaps between the metal

 

[Ace Paul]

Are they new quality branded rods, or the junk from supermarket?


The supermarket rods, just stick and need more power. The ones I have, saving them for full power, make a large turd for electrolysis.

Watch a few YouTube videos. Look for Icweld

 

[Gingle]

Esab rods

 

[Popcorn]

Esab 6013's are a load of crap and have been for quite a few years now.........

 

[Gingle]

Name a good arc rod

 

[Popcorn]

For 6013's I like Murex

 

[zzr1200]

For 6013's I like Murex

Made by British Oxygen Company.......

Esab 6013's are a load of crap and have been for quite a few years now.........

ESAB bought out BOC years ago................

PS. I have a few packets of Esab Gold 6013 (2.5/3.2/4.0mm), not the best 6013 rod i've ever used, but by far from the worst....