anyone ever made a manual guillotine or press?

[syborg]

hi folks.

basicly im looking to build a lever operated press using the similar mechanics to the bench guillotine.

im looking to crush a small amount of insulated cable to split the sheathing but wanna use a lever type set up as it cant be any slower than using a knife and i dont want to burn it, i want to keep it "bright".

i have seen a motor driven version by another member with very high engineering prowess "you know who you are lol".

but fancy buildin a simple bar, hinge and anvil setup.

or copying the kind of mechanism used in the the left and right handed tin snips, they use a double hinge type setup i guess to double the leverage.

any ideas folks?

thanks in advance..

peace

syborg

 

[syborg]

just quickly drawn up a type using the twin hinge setup.

obviously the pivoting arms would be either between two outer arms or vice versa,


peace

syborg

 

[piman]

Hello Syborg,

I think that a lump hammer would be as quick as what you're proposing? I assume your crushing a few inches, then gripping the conductors in a vice and pulling the sheath off?

Alec

 

[syborg]

hi mate,
i have tried that but the insulation is hard as hell.

like a really stiff plasitc, this is the insides of a load of armoured cable i was given for a job but never got round to it.

it was originaly for running a 32 amp supply to my workshop.

peace

syborg

 

[piman]

Hello Syborg,

you've got your work cut out then.

I'd say chop it to manageable lengths, knife the outer and peel that back and get rid of the armour. Burn the inner for about 8" or so and clamp in a vice then warm the sheaths and pull them of with heat as you go?

What's the difference in price between burnt copper and bright? It might not be worth the hassle?

Alec

 

[Robotstar5]

but the insulation is hard as hell.

like a really stiff plasitc, this is the insides of a load of armoured cable i was given for a job but never got round to it.

If it's thermoplastic it's a real bu**er to remove, anything less than 6mm and I wouldn't bother!

 

[syborg]

well. im led to belive that bright is worth mare than burnt.

the original cable was about 22m in diamater.

each wire inside is 6mm in diameter of copper,

but i think ive found the solution.....

a wood planer...a manual one,

i set it up to cut about 0.7mm deep.

run it up one end, turn round and finish,

wire pops right out....

i weighed in a 9 litre flower pot full of the odd copper pipe over the weekend and got 15 quid!!! and that wat classed as heavy copper for some reason, i think my manners helped,lol normaly its classed as braizery.

peace

syborg.

 

[syborg]

No. 2 scrap copper wire brings the second highest price for recycled copper. It consists of clean, non-alloyed copper. It needs to be clean, but can be oxidized or coated clippings, bus bars, punchings, commutator segments. It can also include clean oxidized pipe or tubing, but should be free of excessive solder. Light gauge, clean, coated or oxidized wire is also allowed, but must be free of fine gauge wire. All No. 2 scrap copper should be free of excessive oxidization, ash, brittle burnt wire and scale.

 

[barrygibson]

No. 2 scrap copper wire brings the second highest price for recycled copper. It consists of clean, non-alloyed copper. It needs to be clean, but can be oxidized or coated clippings, bus bars, punchings, commutator segments. It can also include clean oxidized pipe or tubing, but should be free of excessive solder. Light gauge, clean, coated or oxidized wire is also allowed, but must be free of fine gauge wire. All No. 2 scrap copper should be free of excessive oxidization, ash, brittle burnt wire and scale.

You certainly know your scrap