the snooper
getting older by the day
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It has a can of fosters on there no wonder it's Brahms and Liszt 
- Thread starter tomsutton529
- Start date
If you want to salvage what you have then what I would do is wait till it stabilises, once the central heating is on it may move more. You could then run a plane over the surface and take the peak off and then put a face piece on the end of the planks. If you used decent screws you may be able to pull flat but the tension in the wood can be amazing.
When I built my kitchen table I used some kiln dried pine boards not too different to scaffold board size, they are biscuit jointed. the outer 2 have a bit of cupping. When it was first built it was fine, after a while one of the legs lifted, then it settled.
When I built my kitchen table I used some kiln dried pine boards not too different to scaffold board size, they are biscuit jointed. the outer 2 have a bit of cupping. When it was first built it was fine, after a while one of the legs lifted, then it settled.
julianf
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These scaffold boards have not moved at all -
I had them stored outside (summer) and then bought them in, sanded them, and nailed them down.
Any that were badly shaped were discarded though, and the nails used were cut clasp -
...at quite regular intervals (i forget quite how close, but closer than standard joist spacing - you can see in the photo anyhow)
The spilts were in the wood before btw - they did not appear post fixing.
My point is that (whilst i know nothing about wood) i suspect that you can use scaffold board, but just not without holding it in place well, and, or letting it acclimatise before making anything from it (which i did not do)
If you seal wood kitchen work tops, you always have to seal the underside too - not to make it look pretty, but to make it so as the top and bottom surfaces are similar absorbencies, to combat warping.
The floor board above were treated with entirely different things on both sides (woodworm / fungicide on the bottom & ends, waxed on the top) but, again, i seem to have gotten away with it - i suspect because of the nails used.
(i tried wire nails, but they just pulled through)
I had them stored outside (summer) and then bought them in, sanded them, and nailed them down.
Any that were badly shaped were discarded though, and the nails used were cut clasp -
...at quite regular intervals (i forget quite how close, but closer than standard joist spacing - you can see in the photo anyhow)
The spilts were in the wood before btw - they did not appear post fixing.
My point is that (whilst i know nothing about wood) i suspect that you can use scaffold board, but just not without holding it in place well, and, or letting it acclimatise before making anything from it (which i did not do)
If you seal wood kitchen work tops, you always have to seal the underside too - not to make it look pretty, but to make it so as the top and bottom surfaces are similar absorbencies, to combat warping.
The floor board above were treated with entirely different things on both sides (woodworm / fungicide on the bottom & ends, waxed on the top) but, again, i seem to have gotten away with it - i suspect because of the nails used.
(i tried wire nails, but they just pulled through)
Shedendman
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- 5,461
Still depends on what boards you used yours look old,which could be a blessing/luck,i've seen new scaffold boards these days and trust me they're cheap crap,no way i'd have them for a table
Scaffold boards are for scaffolding,what you do with them elsewhere is up to you
Scaffold boards are for scaffolding,what you do with them elsewhere is up to you
brightspark
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- yarm stockton on tees
i bought a dozen second hand ones all been on site and then stored outside under cover for a year and are as flat as a pancake then cut em up and used as cheap fence rails 
biggest problem is, its "white" wood, the most horrible carcassing timber, see how wide the growth rings are,and its quite useless for joinery. -- if it must be Pine,it needs to be seasoned "redwood"- summat like joinery 5ths. its a bit like making a silk puse out of a sows ear, butt joints are useless, wide boards will be prone to warping problems. In todays world use onlt kiln dried, controlled, quality timber,it only comes at a price. make sure the butt joint have a good "sliver" in them, use some good glue, cramp them up let the glue dry and then clean em up. -- job done.
Stan
captain-destructo
all the gear no idea
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start again with good quality timber
or
make a feature of it get some coach bolts and bolt it down to the steel frame if it will strip down easily fit loads of buiscuit joints or dowels first
screws wont hold it there is a lot of strength in timber when it wants to twist
or
make a feature of it get some coach bolts and bolt it down to the steel frame if it will strip down easily fit loads of buiscuit joints or dowels first
screws wont hold it there is a lot of strength in timber when it wants to twist
If you have a local auction you can buy furniture for next to nothing. Yesterday I bought a victorian wind out table, 4 leaves about 7 feet long and 3 feet wide, made from solid mahogany about an inch and a hlaf thick for £2..........Ok that was a bit extreme. I expected about £30. I also bought an old singer sewing machine for £24..........so for £26
I intend to use some of the mahogany to make a top for the cast iron sewing machine base. Then Ive got an outdoor table for not much. To be honest the table is nice so im a bit reticent to cut it up but it would probably look strange outside.
Its a bit sickening as ive got a Victorian Mahogany Dining Table that is very big and well polished and was once worth maybe 5 grand........probably lucky to get 500 nowadays. Its that heavy it takes 4 people to move it.
There were loads of dark Oak and mahogany furniture that goes for nothing. They only want light oak these days.
I intend to use some of the mahogany to make a top for the cast iron sewing machine base. Then Ive got an outdoor table for not much. To be honest the table is nice so im a bit reticent to cut it up but it would probably look strange outside.
Its a bit sickening as ive got a Victorian Mahogany Dining Table that is very big and well polished and was once worth maybe 5 grand........probably lucky to get 500 nowadays. Its that heavy it takes 4 people to move it.
There were loads of dark Oak and mahogany furniture that goes for nothing. They only want light oak these days.
tomsutton529
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Cheers for the help guys, I knew I should have shopped around and done some more research into which wood to use but when the wife is involved things must get done.. I am going to try and wet the underside of the table and bring it back in to shape, I am then going to add some more screws and more battons underneath.. If it lift again im going to plane it..
Wendelspanswick
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When I said to saw cuts in it I meant saw grooves in the underside of the planks so they flex easier across the width.
tomsutton529
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Yeah I saw a video about that. The only problem with cutting or planing is that the table is over 7ft long and over 3ft wide and to do any cutting etc means it has to get out the house, through two rooms that have just been decorated, into the van (where it doesnt quite fit) and drove up the road to the inlaws garage.. Then I have to drag the Mini shell out the garage, make a brew for the inlaws and crack on, in the cold....
It does seem like a good option and they are all being noted so don't think I am dismissing all the above options. I really don't want to move the table.
It does seem like a good option and they are all being noted so don't think I am dismissing all the above options. I really don't want to move the table.
