Any objections to me ordering a Portamig 185 soon?

[The67rubyredbugdude]

I've read a lot of good reviews about them on here but just wondering whether there's any other better new machines for similar money? It'll be my first welding setup and I'm wanting to be able to weld so I can carry out work on my 1967 VW Beetle and my brothers 1983 Mk1 VW Golf which are both in need of panel replacement/repair, I'll also be needing it for other various projects but I really doubt that I'll ever need to weld anything 6mm+.
Cheers Eliott

 

[BrokenBiker]

a 185 is a decent sized machine, but as for 6mm you will need to prep the joints for that I think, using the theory of 1 amp per 1 thou of thickness, 6mm needs 240amps. that said, a quick bevel with a grinder and you are good to go with your 185.

they are regarded by the masses as good machines, very capable of car work and heavier stuff, well made and good aftersales.

 

[The67rubyredbugdude]

a 185 is a decent sized machine, but as for 6mm you will need to prep the joints for that I think, using the theory of 1 amp per 1 thou of thickness, 6mm needs 240amps. that said, a quick bevel with a grinder and you are good to go with your 185.

they are regarded by the masses as good machines, very capable of car work and heavier stuff, well made and good aftersales.

Just what I wanted to hear! I might just get a 215 instead because there's only £50 between them

 

[BrokenBiker]

if you can afford it I would go for the 215. either that or maybe look at a 250 amp inverter mig from the likes of r-tech. search doubleboost on youtube and watch his reviews on the 180 and 250 amp inverters, they are brilliant little bits of kit.

 

[skotl]

Just make sure that you've got a decent 32A 240V circuit on a C-type MCB breaker to supply power to it.

A number of people have little problem running 150A+ on a 13A plug but you're going to go beyond the capability of even a recent installed, decent 13A supply once you're in the 185A and above MIGs.

 

[visor_down]

Will you need to move it between locations to do the 2 cars? Only reason I ask is I find the 215 is not very portable at all (kinda ironic given the name!)
If you need it to be portable then inverter the way to go IMHO

 

[Kent]

I should get an inverter MIG for what you want and its low power smoothness will generally be improved with an inverter type and likelihood is be more practical off 13 amp sockets and moving about. The Big old tech Capacitor type plants use more juice and to my way of looking at things are more the thing to get if you want to be doing gates, railings general fab work with 1mm wire where you don't have 3 phase and such. A Little 160amp Inverter should do very well on general body work and do so even using a std extension lead, some that allow a MMA torch to be plugged in will also give you the capacity to do the odd bit of heavier stuff.

 

[Richard.]

I should get an inverter MIG for what you want and its low power smoothness will generally be improved with an inverter type and likelihood is be more practical off 13 amp sockets and moving about. The Big old tech Capacitor type plants use more juice and to my way of looking at things are more the thing to get if you want to be doing gates, railings general fab work with 1mm wire where you don't have 3 phase and such. A Little 160amp Inverter should do very well on general body work and do so even using a std extension lead, some that allow a MMA torch to be plugged in will also give you the capacity to do the odd bit of heavier stuff.

I agree a little inverter mig would be far more practical. I like the little kemppi set or the esab caddy mig both do a 200amp set and very light. The esab has Q set option so you set your plate thickness and it works out your conditions for you.

 

[Richard.]

http://www.esabna.com/us/en/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.product&productCode=782

 

[Richard.]

http://www.google.hu/url?sa=t&sourc...hoGICg&usg=AFQjCNGkPwzsE2MymomPnyXGUxp7PB7E_A

 

[the snooper]

Don't forget the lower end output when buying, it will need to be a low output for your main use (cars)

 

[Kent]

I agree a little inverter mig would be far more practical. I like the little kemppi set or the esab caddy mig both do a 200amp set and very light. The esab has Q set option so you set your plate thickness and it works out your conditions for you.

Yes, I will probably pick up a Caddy MIG myself shortly indeed I would have bought one earlier but the local dealerships manager I am not too keen on dealing with. The interesting thing is its 16amp main fuse not bad for a 200 amp MIG, I should imagine you can get pretty close to top end on just a 13amp. That said its a lot to invest for a little car work? Jassic are supposed to do very well at the bottom end on thin stuff and 0.6 wire I hear, though I haven't used one

 

[Richard.]

Yes, I will probably pick up a Caddy MIG myself shortly indeed I would have bought one earlier but the local dealerships manager I am not too keen on dealing with. The interesting thing is its 16amp main fuse not bad for a 200 amp MIG, I should imagine you can get pretty close to top end on just a 13amp. That said its a lot to invest for a little car work? Jassic are supposed to do very well at the bottom end on thin stuff and 0.6 wire I hear, though I haven't used one

No I've not used a jassic machine before but I have used the caddy and yes it performs lovely from a 13amp supply. I agree a grand is a lot for car body machine but having 200 amps under your belt makes it quite reasonable as your thicker steel fabrications are also easily done with the same unit.

 

[Richard.]

Don't forget the lower end output when buying, it will need to be a low output for your main use (cars)

With the Q set on the caddy mig you can tell it you want to weld half mm plate and it sets it up for you so it's perfect for really low current. A lot of people use it for mig braising which is lovely for car body panels. Expensive though as you need the mig braising wire and pure argon

 

[Gareth0123]

Just what I wanted to hear! I might just get a 215 instead because there's only £50 between them

"I had been wanting to buy a Portamig 235 for over a year, so I ordered one on a 2-3 week delivery...... after a lot of badgering and 7 & 1/2 weeks later (53 days from point of order) it arrived. It was originally destined for someone else because another company's name had been crossed out on the shipping label and mine added in marker pen. I assembled it and had a little play with no issues. I had a couple of other minor plays with it during the next few days to become use to it and a week later I had a fairly basic and easy but regular production run scheduled: one that the 21O Sealey breezed through without problems 4 or 5 times a month. Not so the Portmig 235, at about 2/3rds the way through my first (and only) easy production run with it, the Portamig cut out on me, there was a foul smell of burning paint and insulation, smoke pouring out from under the main cover and the wire feed motor was that hot the radiating heat could have been used for making toast, so it got returned to Portamig and my money refunded."

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/what-mig-and-arc-welder-to-buy.50243/#post-568012

 

[langy]

Probably not much help but a friend of mine bought a 215 Portamig a few weeks ago and I had a short go on it and I was impressed, every bit as good as my Cebora 200

 

[J.F]

Not used the Portamig, but if it's your first welding set up this might be a useful link for welding gas, much cheaper for full size cylinders in hobby use than renting a cylinder. http://www.sgsgases.co.uk/

 

[brewdexta]

I bought a Portamig 185 as my first MIG, so I don't have anything to judge it by however I've had no issues and I have a sneaking suspicion that its much better than I am capable of. I seem to be using it more and more, I have no idea how I managed to survive so long without a welder. Most of my stuff is of the thinner variety and although I'm not very experienced I have been welding 0.8 sheet without blowing holes very nicely with it. With a bit of bevelling I have been welding thicker stuff, the neighbours snow plough blade brackets was the first time I had it on full power, could have done with a bit more so should have gone for the 215 I guess try arc for thicker stuff.

 

[Kent]

I bought a Portamig 185 as my first MIG, so I don't have anything to judge it by however I've had no issues and I have a sneaking suspicion that its much better than I am capable of. I seem to be using it more and more, I have no idea how I managed to survive so long without a welder. Most of my stuff is of the thinner variety and although I'm not very experienced I have been welding 0.8 sheet without blowing holes very nicely with it. With a bit of bevelling I have been welding thicker stuff, the neighbours snow plough blade brackets was the first time I had it on full power, could have done with a bit more so should have gone for the 215 I guess try arc for thicker stuff.

Yes,
There is a big advantage to a MMA set when your on 240volts and have some thicker stuff to do, especially so if its not inside the workshop. No question that MIG is the king on thin stuff like cars that is not practical with TIG

 

[norlander]

I've taken a liking to Gys kit and have their smartmig 162 and love it to death and am possibly buying one of their TIG sets, not sure if its relevant, but look at weldequips site as he sells the Gys 162.