Yeah you won't get much leverage with one of those multi-tools for sure. I took some time mid pedals off my road bike last summer, my god they were seized on. The hex key socket was big enough not to cam out though when I got the big tools on it
- Thread starter GrahamGKD
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Yeah you won't get much leverage with one of those multi-tools for sure. I took some time mid pedals off my road bike last summer, my god they were seized on. The hex key socket was big enough not to cam out though when I got the big tools on it
brightspark
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one big problem even if u could cast them
when the casting cools it shrinks so it would be smaller than the original pattern 
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one big problem even if u could cast them
I was going to put a
in after the suggestion, but my laptop decided it was time to shut down so it could update software as I was posting 
What other spanner sizes are there on the bike other than 15mm for the pedals? Headset and bottom bracket aside off the top of head i can only think of 10mm for some styles of brake and 13/15/17mm for wheel bearings/cones which are too narrow to get at with an adjustable anyway
Decent quality bikes don't need the pedals to be done up stupidly tight, only cheap & nasty tat needs the leverage of a proper pedal spanner to prevent the things falling out. The pedals on mine (old XT spds into Middleburn or Dura-Ace cranks depending on the bike) are only nipped up 1/4 turn past finger tight using an allen key or cone spanner and have never come loose while out and about let alone fallen out
If you've got a conventional style headset then personally i'd get some 6082 or ideally 7075 aluminium machined/laser cut to make a lightweight headset spanner
Decent quality bikes don't need the pedals to be done up stupidly tight, only cheap & nasty tat needs the leverage of a proper pedal spanner to prevent the things falling out. The pedals on mine (old XT spds into Middleburn or Dura-Ace cranks depending on the bike) are only nipped up 1/4 turn past finger tight using an allen key or cone spanner and have never come loose while out and about let alone fallen out
If you've got a conventional style headset then personally i'd get some 6082 or ideally 7075 aluminium machined/laser cut to make a lightweight headset spanner
GrahamGKD
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I carry a cone spanner for the cones but another spanner is needed for the locknut. I think it's only the front wheel of my wife's bike that still has those kind of bearings now though.
I also do some long tours piloting other peoples tandems so I'm not in control of the fittings on those.
Typically 17mm for cone locknuts. Other peoples bikes is obviously a curveball but i'm pretty sure you should be still be able to buy a combination pedal / headset spanner (15/32mm or 15/36mm) which'd be fairly light as they're typically just laser cut from 4mm thick plate. As nasty as they are one of those multi spanners would take care of pretty much any other emergency like loose wheel bearings?
Hotrodder the trouble with pedals is not the fact you put them on not that tight (though the 1/4 turn thing is long gone now days it's all torque settings). The real problem with pedals is they naturally tighten with the constant peddling and with dirt/water ingress in conjunction with the fact the cranks are ali they can really seize in after time even if you grease them.
chunkolini
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This what I would reccomend a cooltool, not sure if they are made any more, it replaces most of your tool kit as well.
The spanner has narrow jaws so it will do cup and cone bearings as well. chain tool, 5 sizes of allen keys etc etc
The spanner has narrow jaws so it will do cup and cone bearings as well. chain tool, 5 sizes of allen keys etc etc
norlander
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I jave the small version of these http://www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite.woa/wa/DirectAction?page=!47153 which I carry in my motorcycle tool kit and they are very good, when used like an adjustable spanner, you can lightly release the handles to turn the nut/bolt again, something akin to a ratchet spanner. I think they would be a tad lighter and more versatile than a normal adjustable.
Shop around for prices.
Shop around for prices.
That's why i suggested a combination headset/pedal spanner after the other peoples bikes comment by Graham
FWIW i used to work in the bicycle trade, it's how i was introduced to welding and fabrication (framebuilding). I've seen more than a few pedals over the years and never once had a problem removing examples that'd been fitted by a monkey and then left in a damp shed after jetwashing and forgotten about until the following years Tour de France. Bottom brackets and seatposts can put up a reasonable fight, pedals not so much
GrahamGKD
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Hmmm, yes, the seatpost in my wife's bike has seized solid (aluminum in steel) - there has been no reason to move it so I have left it where it is for these last few years but I guess I will have to tackle it one day.
That's an interesting tool Chunko - it doesn't look like they are made anymore but there is one on Ebay at the moment. It will be interesting to see how the bidding goes on it.
Norlander, I have been looking at those since someone posted a review video up on here a while ago. I must get one, although I suspect even the smallest version might be a bit on the large side for a bike tool. I bought one of the 'waterpump pliers' by the same manufacturer and am very impressed with it.
I dragged my toolkit around 127 miles of the hilliest lanes around here (and not so close to here) today - 6,500 ft of ascent - you can see why I want to lighten it a bit!
the snooper
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