Any advice about replacing a cambelt on an early 90s Fiat Ducato 2.0 TD ?

[Nomad]

I've been asked if I can fit a new cambelt to a friends classic Ducato campervan.

Any advice: simple job / needs special tools / pig of a job / do tensioners at the same time / approx cost of parts ...

The van is from around 1992/93 and the lady would like it done before she goes touring for the winter.

 

[bricol]

Based on Lancia twink experience - change anything that has potential to take out the timing belt - on the Lancia, tensioner, idlers and water pump. (And on the twink, balance shaft belt, ilder and tensioner, as if it fails, it wipes out the timing belt)

 

[barracuda816]

Are you sure it's 2.0TD as I remember they were usually 1.9TD or 2.5TD unless it was the JTD engine, which could be a 2.0 or 2.3. Is it a MK1 or 2?

 

[Ian X]

I would do as others have recommended. Belt, follower pulleys, tensioner pulley. I am pretty sure when I last did this job on a Vauxhall engine that Autodoc did kits with all concerned parts in one box. Normally there is an index lock and crank mark to synchronise the crank/cam and the rest is straightforward. I mostly dislike Youtube but after sifting through the crud you can usually find someone who made a decent explanatory for any vehicle worth owning.

 

[Turbo]

If its the old Peugeot engine it will be straight forward, depending on access.The top engine mount needs to come off and if its worn replace it.

Get a full cambelt kit including all the pulleys and the water pump. Change the coolant when you have it drained.

 

[jmp49]

If its the 2.5 as discussed above, I've done the job a few times on my 2.5 ducato motorhome of the same (well 1990) vintage and with that motor you dont have to take any mounts off. You need some sofim sized locking pins or drill bits the same size to lock the cam/crank/pump pulleys through the provided holes. The only real pain is the crank nut and limited space between it and the chassis rail. I welded a slice off a socket onto a flat bar years ago and its my special sofim crank nut tool, and use a scaff tube on it. I have the same motor in my master pickup, but in that its longitudinal, so its easy to get the big windy gun with the shortened donor socket on it and shock it off. If its leaking oil from the front, the crank seal is easy to do while you are there as its carried in a carrier plate that unbolts. And if you have a persistent weep from near the belt tensioner, the tensioner sits on a spacer plate that's pinned the block with its stud, and behind that plate is a window in the engine case into the oil gallery that the plate blocks off.