Anti stone chip paint/supplier

[Phil Pallot]

Appreciate it if anyone can advise where to source the anti stone chip paint used in the painting tutorial-Thanks

 

[malcolm]

I bought mine from my local car paint supplier. Most car paint specialists should have the stuff at about £5 for 1L.

I can't see much advertised on the internet - probably because it's cheap, heavy and very messy if the couriers get it wrong. Found one in the Google product search here. Also searching for "stonechip 1L" on there brings a few more out. Careful to avoid black shultz - that's tar based underseal.

 

[Phil Pallot]

Malcolm --Thanks for the feedback

 

[pedrobedro]

Proper Schutz can be painted over with your top coat. The black stuff is underbody Schutz. (Schutz is just German for protection) Shultz was the fat bloke in Hogan's Heroes

 

[steveo3002]

ive found most folk call the sticky underbody stuff shutz ...and the overpaintable stuff stonechip

make sure it says overpaintable

ebay is often best for prices

 

[the snooper]

ive found most folk call the sticky underbody stuff shutz ...and the overpaintable stuff stonechip

same here

 

[Punx0r]

Bit of a thread bump here.

I've been using the tetrosyl stone chip (black/grey, I swear they're the same) recently over zinc 182 primer and find the stone chip cracks badly when drying. Subsequent coats also crack even if applied 24 hours later.

This has been occuring even when the primer is given 1-2 full days to dry.

Is this just because the ambient temp has been about 5*C? The primer is still drying after about 15 mins though and feels hard before applying the stonechip.

 

[malcolm]

Could you post a photo of the cracking.

Crazing is often down to incompatible solvents between coats of paint (ie cellulose over synthetic). I'm not sure what the zinc182 or Tetrosyl use for solvents, but I'm fairly sure I've sprayed one over the other. Are you using black or grey stonechip? If it's black does it seem a bit like tar in smell and feel?

Likely it's drying time - it's way too cold to paint anything (-6C this morning here), and that could cause the same trouble as spraying something far too thick on a hot day. Especially as the paint will cool while evaporating.

 

[steveo3002]

id guess 2 days isnt enough time for the primer to dry this time of year

i used some stonechip on our polo in summer and it cracked like you said in places , put it down to incompatible primer /stonechip...and the stonechip is thinners heavy so will upset anything a bit suspect under it

you can get water based stonchips , havent used em in a while but they might be more friendly

 

[Chickenjohn]

I have found the same thing! Spray stone chip coating over zinc primer in the winter and it sometimes cracks when drying. In warmer weather, it is much less of a problem, and if you apply a "dust" coat or two of stone chip first this seems to improve matters. I think the problem is the stone chip paint solvent dissolves and lifts the primer if it goes on too wet and if the weather is too cold to allow the thinners to evaporate quickly. Also seems to be less of a problem if you thin the stone chip with cellulose thinners.

Try heating your garage and applying some dust coats of stonechip, then let dry thoroughly between each coat.

 

[Punx0r]

Sorry, haven't got any photos. Crazing would be a fair description of it.

I'm not sure if it's black or grey, I don't remember it saying so on the tin. It's black when wet and dries grey if that helps

I've been brushing it on, so I guess it's going on fairly quick. It still goes touch dry within 10 mins in the ~5*C we've had a lot recently.

I guess I shall have to see how it goes when things warm up a bit. I guess some plain primer (brushing or rattle cans being used here) over the zinc 182 wouldn't help as I imagine it'd have a very similar base, but will give it a try. I've got some barcoat anti-reaction paint that'd probably work, but it's pricey and a bit of a faff for chassis/wheel arches!

BTW, don't use hammerite direct-to rust for anything I painted my wheel arch lips with it a few months ago and it's now all chipped and rusting... I'm hoping the zinc 182 and tetrosyl will be a stonechip with a bit more effective.

 

[jaykay]

always had that problem,withzinc 182. never use it now.
seems to react with most paints.and if your brushing on,over the top your just stirring it up more.
hammerite works in the right places,but if it is chip areas.it will chip for sure.dries hard, so easy chips.

 

[Punx0r]

Darn it!

It's easilly available locally, reasonably priced (about 1/3rd the price of acid No.8 etch primer), goes on well and performs very well against corrosion (I've had a scratch test panel outside in the rain for months now).

If it's going to react with everything though I might have to go back to red oxide. I've not seen it in aerosol can form anywhere locally, though.

 

[steveo3002]

what about some bondaprime

need to mail order it i expect , but its good stuff

however it does say leave it 7 days before painting over with celly stuff

 

[Weldinator]

I have found the same thing! Spray stone chip coating over zinc primer in the winter and it sometimes cracks when drying. In warmer weather, it is much less of a problem, and if you apply a "dust" coat or two of stone chip first this seems to improve matters. I think the problem is the stone chip paint solvent dissolves and lifts the primer if it goes on too wet and if the weather is too cold to allow the thinners to evaporate quickly. Also seems to be less of a problem if you thin the stone chip with cellulose thinners.

Try heating your garage and applying some dust coats of stonechip, then let dry thoroughly between each coat.

Thanks for the advice, would you say 10 minutes is long enough at 20c temp and a warm car ?

Its ok ive managed to find the data sheet on the stonechip i'll use and seems to need a very warm car and curing time/temp. I think ill leave it 2 days at around 22c temp then top coat in acrylic base coat.

http://www.hbbody.com/techdata/stonechips/body950.pdf