- Thread starter GRW
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James1979
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That is strange you should recommend that.
I was chatting to the bloke who does my powder coating and he tries everything to make it better. He’s tried loads of solvents and de greasers etc.
Someone on a powder forum recommended soap and water and straight into the hot oven to dry.
He tried it and reckons it’s the best thing he uses.
conor1n
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Interesting one on the salt, I wasn't aware.
Personally i've not noticed it. I rarely put in clean steel into the cleaner. Mostly it's stuff that might already have a bit of rust on it.. and when it comes out doesn't look any worse to my eyes.
Depending on what I am doing.. I will often wash off all the grime with the soapy water.. drain it and then add vinegar. Following that I will hand clean with a solvent and then paint.
Personally i've not noticed it. I rarely put in clean steel into the cleaner. Mostly it's stuff that might already have a bit of rust on it.. and when it comes out doesn't look any worse to my eyes.
Depending on what I am doing.. I will often wash off all the grime with the soapy water.. drain it and then add vinegar. Following that I will hand clean with a solvent and then paint.
I bought some (5L) of Best's (Biker Bill is it?) Carb Cleaner Solution after positive reviews from you lot...
... and put it to the test tonight after work.
I've an old Honda EX1000 suitcase genny that I got going (I use it on weekends away to charge up E-Mtb's).
I cleaned the dinky carb several times with aerosol carb cleaner, blew it through with airline etc..... but I could never quite get it to run perfectly - it needed part-choke or it'd hunt (suggesting a partially blocked pilot or transfer port in there somewhere).
So, I stripped the carb & gave it a session with the carb cleaner - and result! Refitted carb, & the old Honda runs sweet & smooth & good as new!
... and put it to the test tonight after work.
I've an old Honda EX1000 suitcase genny that I got going (I use it on weekends away to charge up E-Mtb's).
I cleaned the dinky carb several times with aerosol carb cleaner, blew it through with airline etc..... but I could never quite get it to run perfectly - it needed part-choke or it'd hunt (suggesting a partially blocked pilot or transfer port in there somewhere).
So, I stripped the carb & gave it a session with the carb cleaner - and result! Refitted carb, & the old Honda runs sweet & smooth & good as new!
I bought your stuff Bill, which really did work well on the one job I've used it on (so far) - so no need for the Kero
In a previous life of design such things, you could watch clean steel turn orange with rust as it lifted out of a cleaning tank - need some inhibitor too.
Good few companies out there will advise, and sell, on suitable detergents for use in different types of aqueous cleaners, ultrasonic included for your components, materials, and contaminants. 20 yrs on, I'm still getting excellent results from two different detergents - I started with 25 ltrs of each - I would tell you what they are, but the labels faded or fell off a long time ago.
Place I use cooks stuff first to burn off grease, paint, crap, then blasts it, then straight into powder coat - seems to work. Does mean you can't leave rubber suspension bushes in like another place I used to use.
Back in that previous life of designing cleaning plant, we did have a guy doing trials using clothes washing powders in ultrasonics cleaners for all sorts of contaminated stuff, including clothes.
I think we may have got fed up with him before he came to any conclusion
Did my e-mtb chain this afternoon, using the carb cleaner solution.
The amount of gack that the chain released was amazing - the solution (in a smallish Pyrex dish as advised) looked like thin turkey gravy afterwards, while the chain looked almost new.
The amount of gack that the chain released was amazing - the solution (in a smallish Pyrex dish as advised) looked like thin turkey gravy afterwards, while the chain looked almost new.
