In a way its a good job they pulled enough to operate a 6a mcb and alert you to the situation.
Well there is 1/2 hour of my life gone after reading Matt's post went & checked 3 fittings the trusty Fluke 87 show a reading of 104Ma with the choke & same without
So it seems that some do some don't (story of my life really)
Now Matt has put the idea in my head will have to check all our fittingsstill at least we can remove chokes as we do it
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So the moral of the story (if I read it right) is that when replacing fluorescent tubes with LEDs, remove all chokes and starters from the fitting and just wire them in 'direct' ?
That seems to be the best plan. Just watch out for which variant of direct wiring your LED tube needs... and label stuff so other folks know.So the moral of the story (if I read it right) is that when replacing fluorescent tubes with LEDs, remove all chokes and starters from the fitting and just wire them in 'direct' ?
And if they are led tubes then you probably can rewire the fittings to ditch any chokes, starters etc. Most led tubes are entirely self contained with internal power supplies.
I wonder if they do it in 4 core for 2 way lighting circuits?I think you were using the wrong "lighting" cable, saw this in Wilko today, should be able to carry the current
View attachment 101190
These are the Ledhut fittings sold for their LED tubes
Apart from the unexpected excess current draw, how are they for light output and quality of light?
I've been thinking of slowly replacing 20 x 4ft tubes in my workshop, a couple at a time. I wouldn't want any less light, iyswim.
Such a thing is an abomination and unnatural.Wow look everyone......
He's got empty space!
Just what I wanted to hear / readAll issues aside the tubes are very good and put out plenty of good light. Now I've bypassed the ballasts the current draw is very low.