Another newbie looking for some feedback.

[_JK_]

Hello, I have about two years Tig-welding experience, but my welding have improved nicely during past month and I'm pretty happy with my results so far. I'm still looking some feedback about these two welds.

First weld is mild steel exhaust manifold collector to turbine flange, tube is 3mm thick and flange 10mm, 130amps 1,6mm tungsten and filler rod. I'm not sure if I should do another pass or is one pass enough?

Second one is seat bracket, mild steel 3mm wall thickness round tube to 3mm thick square tube. 110amps, 1,6mm tungsten and filler rod, I'm pretty sure that one pass is enough.

 

[hotrodder]

First weld is mild steel exhaust manifold collector to turbine flange, tube is 3mm thick and flange 10mm, 130amps 1,6mm tungsten and filler rod. I'm not sure if I should do another pass or is one pass enough?

you only need to size the weld for the thinnest member i.e. a bigger weld won't make things stronger because the thinner section will become the limiting factor

Pretty neat and consistant, area circled in red... the weld toes could be better tied in, the arrow is pointing to a spot where the toes blend in nicely with the parent material



If you haven't done any yet then there's a section here on weld testing... http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wiki/Weld_Testing, the nick break is an easy one to do on fillet welds although with TIG fillets if it looks neat the only lack of fusion defects are typically gonna be at the root (where the two pieces meet) which is often faster/easier to look for by cutting a cross section and macro etching. Pic of LOF at the root in fig 4 here... http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/common-TIG-GTAW-welding-problems-visual-guide-graphic

 

[_JK_]

Thanks for the info Hotrodder!
I already decided to not to weld another pass on collector flange, I still might weld it from inside once it has been ported.

That cirled are is clearly one point where there is room for the improvement, but I'm still learning. I need to practice my torch handling, but shaky unsteady hands don't help there. My stainless welding needs practicing a lot also, I have never been able to make good stainless weld, always too hot or too cold.

I have to do breaking test for few of my test weld pieces, I don't want to break these seat brackets.

 

[hotrodder]

I don't blame you. Trying to break that weld open would be a proper chore anyway, even with a short section of a fillet on flate plate you should have to wail on it pretty hard even after 'nicking' it to encourage it break

The stainless thing... are we talking in general or say about weld colour on thin wall butts? Bear in mind that on many other forums many people bang on and on about weld colour and appearance at the expense of everything else. A lot of what's said needs to be taken with at least a pinch of salt. For example if i posted this pic on some forums there'd probably a bunch of comments along the lines of 'too hot' should be golden straw coloured etc...



Those that were making such comments will rarely if ever show you the back of their 'perfect colour' welds though...



and more importantly are kinda missing the point if they're talking about exhaust manifolds and the like as the entire thing will end up being covered in surface oxides far darker (thicker) than golds/straws as soon as the engine is run in anger...

 

[Hotmetal]

I think it is crucial to get comfortable before you start and do a quick dummy run without power. It is so easy to get halfway along only to have your elbow etc. digging into yourself so you have to move a bit while continuing to weld. Sometimes useful to use a hand or arm rest at the right height.