Andrews Space heater woes

[Maxakarudy]

I've got a rough looking Andrews space heater, that doesn't want to power up, it's dual voltage, but is set up on 240v
Things I've checked that work.......
1. Overheat sensor, no resistance from cold
2. Optical sensor, reacts to torch light, checked with ohms on multi meter
3. Fuel ignitor works
4. Fan motor works
5. Fuel solenoid clicks when powered
There's no fuel level sensor, but has fuel and the rest light is on permanently, ie won't reset.

Anybody got knowledge with these type of indirect heaters?

 

[carbon]

Does this have control box with a reset button like a satronic or honeywell? Or is it it’s own module? If it’s satronic or honeywell a wire can come detached from the bimetallic inside and it will just sit there running the fan and not going any further

 

[Maxakarudy]

There is a reset light pictured, but not anywhere else, later models have that I think

 

[carbon]

Only looking at this on my phone, does the pcb have any through hole components, I’ve seen some resistors that have broken on some heaters. Bad solder joints on relays and transformers can also cause issues. I’ve also seen those external thermostat sockets fail

 

[Dapph2]

I've got a rough looking Andrews space heater, that doesn't want to power up, it's dual voltage, but is set up on 240v
Things I've checked that work.......
1. Overheat sensor, no resistance from cold
2. Optical sensor, reacts to torch light, checked with ohms on multi meter
3. Fuel ignitor works
4. Fan motor works
5. Fuel solenoid clicks when powered
There's no fuel level sensor, but has fuel and the rest light is on permanently, ie won't reset.

Anybody got knowledge with these type of indirect heaters?

It's along while ago since I played with them so memory is a bit foggy .

Shouldn't the over heat sensor be a made contact so if things over heat the bi-metalic strip inside opens up and cuts the current ?

Also is the air filter clean and not clogged with dust or paint particles from spray painting ( common cause of problems )
If the fuel lift /up take pipe is cracked & lets in air , the igniter will just spark and time out after a while . On old machines that were designed to run on non E fuels that was not such a problem but with the advent of adding methan ol to make E5 & later E10 fuels it killed the pipes on the earlier machine . If this is the case take great care in removong the pipes IIRC I had several that broke thet the spigot on the take off plate screws tot eh tank body .. ( turned up a couple of brass get arounds and installed the latest fuel piping .


Also had to turn up several brass air bleed screws with oval heads that precisely fitted my gas nipple inserter remover tool as the replaced screws were plastic had screw driver slots in them & were knackered by Mr Numptys who thought they were mechanics /service engineers . form being screwed in far too hard & too often .