American White Oak

[Welderpaul]

Been doing a bit of googling for American White Oak - have a job on with oak treads and landings. Seem to have found a max size of 200x25mm planks. 25mm thick is about right (cos theres a big flat bar under the treads), but was wondering if a wider plank is commercially available?

We also need to make some landings out of the stuff, so will no doubt be biscuit jointing here, but don't want to do it on the treads.

Will look nice: anti slip stainless bars let into the leading edges of the treads and landings, radiused glass infills on the balustrades, treads set up on stools off radiused RHS stringers. The whole structure sits on hidden columns to make it look like its floating.

Get me back on the garden gates

 

[runnach]

Get me back on the garden gates

You can take the man out from making gates, but you can't take the gates out the man.............or summit like that

Reads like an interesting quality job when complete Paul, pics please.............

Cant help re; timber sizes, apart the obvious speak to timber merchants....

Cheers..........

 

[Hitch]

Not sure on White oak, ive bought red oak in much wider lengths than that, about 500mm.
In single pieces i'd think cupping might be a problem to consider... Cant make your own wide boards up?
I can tell you my local timber merchant, but probably not much use down here.

 

[Welderpaul]

Presumably as long as the boards are fixed down, the problem of cupping should be reduced - wide flat bar for the treads to sit on - maybe even a solid plate for the landings to keep everything in place. Would also allow for the treads to be fixed towards the end of the job so they don't get trashed. Would cupping not be a problem even if a few boards were fixed together?
Got a few places to ring tomorrow - just dont want to sound like a wood virgin

 

[scarecrow]

American White Oak (Quercus alba) to give it its Latin name you will be looking for quarter-sawn boards easily recognised by looking at the end of the boards as the lines are nearly at right angles so less likely to cup
Americans White Oak grows to about one metre in diameter so you might be able to get bigger boards has it to be below a certain moisture content the dryer the better
Best of luck with your cherry tomorrow

 

[Hitch]

Is oak veneered ply an option? or are any edges on show?
No chance of cupping/end shakes.
The widths would depend on how its been sawn, most stuff probably plain sawn.
Remember to be specific on sizing- i normally specify sizes after planing.
Whats the finish? oil?

 

[hareng]

Worked with White, Red and Brown oaks all were at least 63 (2 1/2") thick, machine quite, well finishing ok.
Had to burnt the softer grain in the red oak to get some patern.

Think white and red is from US and will come in wider planks and thicknesses, so more a case of finding an importer than a smaller ditributor.

Some links
http://www.hingleytimber.co.uk/
http://www.john-boddy-timber.ltd.uk/
http://www.newcastlehardwood.com/
http://www.tradestairs.com/acatalog/white_oak_stairparts.html?gclid=CMmP0_LxiJ8CFSBk4wodgzD7JQ
http://www.theheritagecollection.co.uk/

 

[Welderpaul]

Thanks for the links. All edges will be seen so has to be solid. I would imagine they will get quite a bit of hammer - cleaning/foot traffic etc, so the finish would need to be quite resiliant, and maintain the look of the timber.
Varnish?

 

[matt1978]

I would imagine they will get quite a bit of hammer - cleaning/foot traffic etc, so the finish would need to be quite resiliant, and maintain the look of the timber.
Varnish?

I have had American white oak for my flooring and they just recomended oiling once a year??

 

[chunkolini]

What kind of metal is 'White Oak'?

For finishing have a look at this stuff,
http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/gbu0-prodshow/fiddes_high_build_clear_wood_oil.html
I have used this on some benches and it leaves a fantastic finish and seams to survive well. Leaves your hands waterproof as well.
I think they do a special floor oil as well.

Chunko'.

 

[pedrobedro]

I have had American white oak for my flooring and they just recommended oiling once a year??

Sounds good for a staircase

Joking aside if you sand it lightly then wipe down sparingly with white spirit and apply Tung oil it should give a good and lasting finish. You could use Linseed oil but it colours the wood a bit yellow.

 

[Hitch]

Theres loads of oils specially for flooring. Oil gives a much nicer finish imo.
Osmo Polyx being the only one i can think off though!

 

[jaykay]

if it has to be varnish,talk to rustin's.or google it.

 

[matt1978]

Theres loads of oils specially for flooring. Oil gives a much nicer finish imo.

Yes, it really finished off my flooring nicely. It bought out the grain detailing more and slightly darkened the overall colour.

 

[Drains]

Hey Paul. Harengs links are good. I've bought plenty of timber off John Boddy's in the past. They'll probably have a good selection. Whoever you order from, have a chat and tell them what the timber's for, make sure you're getting quarter sawn or close to, as Scarecrow said. Also make sure of the quality (they'll give you a choice), with no shakes.

If you can't get the width, it can be built up with machined and glued boards (same with your landings). I wouldn't use biscuit joints though. Glued loose tongues would be much better, or edges prepped with a proper jointing cutter. You really need to get glued edges prepped on a jointer (planer) so they're dead flat for gluing. You can lose the glue line completely if you do it properly, and the joints will never split. Use good glues too - not PVA - ideally cascamite or a PU glue.

Finishing is always a pain on plain wood flooring. Some very good products here -http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/categories/wood-finishes/flooring-products.htm

I'd suggest a good hard varnish, if the client isn't going to keep applying oils regularly. Ideally, ask the client to specify a finish, and colour - white oak is light, and will show up marks easily, unless it's stained down.

Finally - make sure the finished boards have a good chamfer or radius on the top front edge. American White Oak is hard and brittle, much more than european oak, so hard edges will break very quickly.

If I were you I'd sub the job out to a joiners shop, even if you free-issue the timber.