- Thread starter DanielW
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MattH
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Fair play mate. Setting out the rail and screw bearing holes must be painstaking when doing it manually.
That's what I find the DRO most helpful for, I just layout all the hole positions on paper and then drill and tap the coordinates. Ensures everything is square.
That's what I find the DRO most helpful for, I just layout all the hole positions on paper and then drill and tap the coordinates. Ensures everything is square.
DanielW
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- Merseyside Straightjacket user
DanielW
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I've got some 2mm thin perspex which will be used as a template for the ally plate,once I've made the template and drilled pilot holes where appropriate then I'll just clamp the template down on top of the two pieces of aluminium plate on the workmate,score around the template sides,drill the pilot holes and then cut out/route the template shape.
Once the shapes have been routed,clamp em together and route an identicle finish.
My biggest headache is getting the bearing size holes spot on so that I can get tolerance fit,not easy thing to do and sometime ago I had a go at various methods of boring out holes,one method was to route the hole about 3 or 4 mm short of the circumferance then used the below monster to cut the remainder of the circumferance out just within the tolerence of the bearings outer race.
It was successful but a pain the ar*e
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/360228633/_font_b_Adjustable_b_font_Wood.jpg
DanielW
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- Merseyside Straightjacket user
DanielW
Member
- Messages
- 2,258
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- Merseyside Straightjacket user
This is true,just didn't have me thinking head on at the time. Have some 50mmx60mm round bar billets in a box so I'll make the bearing blocks out of them.
Could get some 1" plate but thats more expense.
