steve49suzuki
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As said nothing wrong with 1050 (commercially pure ally) although i'd recommend using 1050 filler wire over 4043... the higher strength of the later is of no benefit and, more importantly, it's noticably less ductile. 4043 is the better choice for dissimilar welds like joining a 6xxx series tube/machined fittings to the tank skin.
3103-H14 and/or 5005-H34 are better choices in that they're a tad stronger than 1050-H14 while being virtually as formable and still work hardening relatively slowly. Downside is they're harder to find and often cost a chunk more as a result
5251-H22 is the common suspect for something stronger, downside is (like many of the 5xxx series) it work hardens pretty quickly which can be a bigger deal if by 'metal forming' you mean putting some proper shape into it like http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/album.php?albumid=1377 for example. If you mean simple folds then just watch grain direction when laying out bends
FWIW this is how the OE manufacturers go about it... http://www.alueurope.eu/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/AAM-Applications-Power-train-5-Fuel-System.pdf the 5754-O mentioned for tanks isn't something likely to be commonly available- it's what 5 bar treadplate is made from (different temper though, not annealed) but i don't think i've ever seen it available as plain sheet
Hello Hotrodder
What do you recommend to make a ali tank out of for a motorcycle. Needs to be strong its going on my race bike for isle of man. Lots of horror stories of home made tanks splitting from the vibrations. so rubber mounted is the way forward. its going to be generally simple box shape.
thanks steve