Ally welding help

[Lee Patterson]

 

[Lee Patterson]

Welds run from top right to left on the images.
My filler rod is 1.6 mm diameter by the way.

 

[norlander]

When you do not have a pedal,you have to get a bit crafty,get some copper pipe and bash it flat. Try this-put a strip under where you are going to weld, you may need to add another strip to keep the job on an even keel.
Don't put the strip all the way along, leave a space where you will begin the bead and establish the puddle.
You might need to do a run of 100mm or so, then stop, and start again further down the job, this stops the puddle running away as the job heats up.
You might have 4T "Log" on your machine, this can help if you can get to grips with it.
4T Log= P1-pilot arc
Release-upslope to full amps
P2- preset %tage of full amps
P3-full amps
P4-downslope
or something like that-still gets me confused.I cut the downslope time to minimum, but kept a generous post gas time as I think it helps the tungsten.

I also used pulse to steady things up and stay in control more. If Jody uses pulse as well sometimes,that'll do for me.

I have just joined the pedal pushers last week,and had a quick try with the pedal and the slimmer,lighter torch you can use with a pedal. Bit odd first time,but way easier to get to grips with compared to torch control.

So bear in mind that most of the experienced gents are pedal pushers- using a clonkin great 26 the size of a chipping hammer and timing the switch presses,and at the same time avoiding the torch dip when you press the tit and keeping you angle of attack constant etc is a different game.
I was actually getting to grips with the torch and doing longer runs just before the pedal arrived so keep practising.

 

[Leetig]

A massive improvement lee and the material looks nice and clean.
You do however have a lot of contamination at the start and finish? Did you dip the tungsten when tacking? Also how are you cutting material? The bead itself does look a little cold. So keep playing with amps,travel speed.

 

[Richard.]

A massive improvement lee and the material looks nice and clean.
You do however have a lot of contamination at the start and finish? Did you dip the tungsten when tacking? Also how are you cutting material? The bead itself does look a little cold. So keep playing with amps,travel speed.

That's black soot. Usually a result of too long arc length/bad torch angle. If torch angle is correct (10-15degrees) and arc length is short the gas coverage is protecting the leading edge of the pool and reduces the oxides been transferred across the arc which is what causes the black soot you see on those runs.

 

[Leetig]

That's black soot. Usually a result of too long arc length/bad torch angle. If torch angle is correct (10-15degrees) and arc length is short the gas coverage is protecting the leading edge of the pool and reduces the oxides been transferred across the arc which is what causes the black soot you see on those runs.

Have never experienced that before the only time I've ever had soot in a weld was from a dipped tungsten. Never stop learning lol

 

[Lee Patterson]

I appreciate the feedback again. Start I think may be contaminated from a bad tack. I think end was torch angle where I ran past the end of the job too far.
I ran another one and they came in much flatter. Like the end of the second weld. I think slower travel speed maybe as amps were set the same.
Currently I am using the 4t trigger function. Mine is start amps on first press. Release for welding current. Press again to downslope to lower weld current which I still need to understand if that is adjustable or preset bottom value. Release again ends weld. Is a bit to get used to but the first bit I am getting the knack of!

 

[Richard.]

Dipping the tungsten or touching the tungsten with the filler will do exactly the same thing. Generally because when this happens the first thing we do is pull the torch further away from the job thus increasing arc length and reducing our gas protection. It's not 100% always the case but I'd say in most cases the black soot is down to how we hold the torch.

 

[Richard.]

Have never experienced that before the only time I've ever had soot in a weld was from a dipped tungsten. Never stop learning lol

You must have good technique lee. Very occasionally I might get a spot come up usually on the first tack of an outside corner joint. The important thing is to brush it off before continuing.

 

[Leetig]

You must have good technique lee. Very occasionally I might get a spot come up usually on the first tack of an outside corner joint. The important thing is to brush it off before continuing.

Yes Richard I have a perfect technique. Ha ha!!!!

I am by no means an expert and i never want to come across as a know it all! However although I'm going into the pipe game I'm regularly do repairs on ally in my spare time and have encountered the very same problems lee is so I do feel my advice will help. I do wish I had of asked on here when I started learning!

 

[Richard.]

This forum wasn't about when started tig welding. So like your self I learnt through messing it up. I'm still learning but not as much messing things up. Guys like hotrodder are the ones you will learn a lot from. Very knowledgable explanations. I've picked up loads of cool info from his posts.

 

[Lee Patterson]

For me this forum is a god send.. A few days ago I couldn't even start a weld. Yet alone run one and discuss.how to improve it!
I am very grateful.

 

[norlander]

I appreciate the feedback again. Start I think may be contaminated from a bad tack. I think end was torch angle where I ran past the end of the job too far.
I ran another one and they came in much flatter. Like the end of the second weld. I think slower travel speed maybe as amps were set the same.
Currently I am using the 4t trigger function. Mine is start amps on first press. Release for welding current. Press again to downslope to lower weld current which I still need to understand if that is adjustable or preset bottom value. Release again ends weld. Is a bit to get used to but the first bit I am getting the knack of!

sounds right on the torch/trigger on 4T, I can set the lower amps as a percentage of the main preset amps, thinks the settings are 30/50.70 % of main preset.
Maybe your machine has the same thing.

 

[Lee Patterson]

Hi guys, looking for some more tips before I attempt a job. I have done a few bits now with corner joints and T joints. Went up to a bit of 3mm angle for one job but I think that might be on the limit of my 1.6 tungsten and filler? Would I be better with 2.4mm at that thickness?
Real point of the post is I have an old bike frame I want to modify. I.e. Cut out and reweld the cross bar. Material is 1.6mm. Can anyone give me tips on this. Is setup the same as the corner joint? 90 amp start then around 60 amp welding? Should I have a pointed or balled tip? Would I benefit from thicker filler rod?
I have made a complex exhaust manifold in stainless but appreciate ally is a completely different beast!
Thanks in advance.
Lee

 

[langy]

Hi guys, looking for some more tips before I attempt a job. I have done a few bits now with corner joints and T joints. Went up to a bit of 3mm angle for one job but I think that might be on the limit of my 1.6 tungsten and filler? Would I be better with 2.4mm at that thickness?
Real point of the post is I have an old bike frame I want to modify. I.e. Cut out and reweld the cross bar. Material is 1.6mm. Can anyone give me tips on this. Is setup the same as the corner joint? 90 amp start then around 60 amp welding? Should I have a pointed or balled tip? Would I benefit from thicker filler rod?
I have made a complex exhaust manifold in stainless but appreciate ally is a completely different beast!
Thanks in advance.
Lee

I use a 2.4 for everything aluminium

 

[Richard.]

Below 90 amps I use a 1.6. 90 or above I go to 2.4.

 

[Lee Patterson]

Thank you for the info.. That gives me the answer about the tips for what current. So with the 3mm I was welding at around 110 amps from memory and thought the tungsten was struggling! Will get some 2.4 tips in too then.
Now when it comes to Sharp ends or balled ends what determines what to go for?
lastly can I get some tips for welding the bike frame up please or is there nothing I need to do any different to normal? Would thicker filler help build the weld in the more filleted areas up easier. Even if I am sticking with a 1.6mm tungsten?

Thank you
Lee

 

[Richard.]

110 amps is 2.4 territory on ac. Your. Tungsten will ball naturally. How much it balls depends on the amount of load you put on it through amps and ep%.

 

[HughF]

I use 3.2 on everything above 160a, ground to a slight taper, I find the extra mass of tungsten behind the ball helps keep things stable

 

[Lee Patterson]

I ask about the tip shape as back in this thread the advice was to grind a taper and back off the ep to try and keep a taper on the tip and concentrated arc? Worked fine for me. But if I can have a balled end then happy days! I could run higher ep unless there is a downside to too much cleaning? I am down around 25- 30% at the mo.