- Thread starter RedOrZed
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shenion
Tool Pack Rat
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- Stone Mountain, GA USA
I would use aluminum brazing rods. Just did a B&S engine. TIG and MIG failed as I could not get the oil out of the crack.
Brazing worked as I could heat it till the oil burned out, then stir the rod over it. Was not structural, just cover a crack.
MIG basically worked, but cracked when cooled. Could not get 4043 wire to feed on my 4M torch well enough. So used 5356 that was not ductile enough.
Brazing worked as I could heat it till the oil burned out, then stir the rod over it. Was not structural, just cover a crack.
MIG basically worked, but cracked when cooled. Could not get 4043 wire to feed on my 4M torch well enough. So used 5356 that was not ductile enough.
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Stone Mountain, GA USA
I have used the Bernzomatic brazing rods and the AlumniWeld rods. Work about the same. Athe AlumniWeld rods seemed to work better. Both run like water so difficult on vertical use, but doable for a thin coating.
Thing is you must stir the weld to get through the oxidation or it will just snap off.
Thing is you must stir the weld to get through the oxidation or it will just snap off.
Endacy
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I had an oil leak from my land rover engine (no surpirses there then...), I had drilled out the rivets for the mud guard on the front crank oil seal, and changed the seal. Without removing the front of the engine you can't safely extract the rivets so I just left them there and left the mudguard off. Oil leaked through the rivets...so I sealed all 6 (or 8?) with two part epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in a tube with a white middle and grey outer, you slice of a bit, squish it together until it's all grey and apply like blue tack. It sets like plastic, amazingly hard.
The only time I had a problem with this on the engine was when the oil seal failed a few years later, I removed it with a lever but levered against the epoxy and smashed it. I knocked them all off and replaced to be sure. No cost at all.
Might be worth a go first? All motor factors sell this stuff under various brand names. Less than a fiver I recall. Just make sure the surface arund the crack is very rough to give it something to grip.
The only time I had a problem with this on the engine was when the oil seal failed a few years later, I removed it with a lever but levered against the epoxy and smashed it. I knocked them all off and replaced to be sure. No cost at all.
Might be worth a go first? All motor factors sell this stuff under various brand names. Less than a fiver I recall. Just make sure the surface arund the crack is very rough to give it something to grip.
Good thought but as the crack is near the oil drain plug I don't think this would work unless I renewed it every time I changed the oil.
Still have not got hold of any broken bits of sump/ gearbox/ diff to try different techniques on. Went to my local scrappy but the surly *** would not let me take some bits off an already broken one. Oh well...
On the positive side I found a local guy who works on classic cars etc. and regularily welds alloy bits, he even had a sump welded there. So if I get to the stage of taking the engine and gearbox out I can always take it to him.
Still would like to have a go..
Thanks
Anjum
Still have not got hold of any broken bits of sump/ gearbox/ diff to try different techniques on. Went to my local scrappy but the surly *** would not let me take some bits off an already broken one. Oh well...
On the positive side I found a local guy who works on classic cars etc. and regularily welds alloy bits, he even had a sump welded there. So if I get to the stage of taking the engine and gearbox out I can always take it to him.
Still would like to have a go..
Thanks
Anjum
Anjum, the crack in mine was near the plug - in fact I think the workshop had to re-tap the hole after making the repair.
