Advice regarding coolant pump please

[CaptainPugwash]

Some where the 3 phases going to the motor no longer have voltage on them where does the loose wire go. Remember 3 phase can kill you no problem

Loose wire actually goes to the main lathe drive motor!

Thanks for the warning

 

[CaptainPugwash]

Take terminal cover off at the pump, switch on check for volts. If yes motor, if no follow back towards the supply. Check simple things first

Seems around 16v at the motor same as at the switch

I think this is beyond me really

 

[CaptainPugwash]

Loose wire.
Check the connector block to see which screw is loose.
If the bundle with the two reds, G/Y and three black go to the motor enclosure I would guess it's next to the other incoming red wire and is from the motor cover interlock which someone has made redundant.
Red on Boxfords used to be the control circuit colour, look at your transformer output / interlocks to check.

Looking at your photos I would say the suds pump which is supplied by the Brown, Blue and Black wires going to the switch, as said above check where these come from and the switch output. If these check out OK take the cover plate off the motor and check the connections there.

Before all that though does the switch rotate all the way round, or is it two or three position?, according to your second photo the knob/switch is upside down to the panel, has it turned in the panel or the forward/reverse switch and someone has swapped the switches.

Thanks for detailed reply
Thanks for all the help on here actually

The suds switch handle will turn all the way around not just its on and off positions. But the switch itself is not turning behind the cover.

 

[Pete.]

Thanks for detailed reply
Thanks for all the help on here actually

The suds switch handle will turn all the way around not just its on and off positions. But the switch itself is not turning behind the cover.

So the white switch knob is rounded off on the spindle? Remove it and turn the spindle with mole grips.

 

[CaptainPugwash]

Loose wire.
Check the connector block to see which screw is loose.
If the bundle with the two reds, G/Y and three black go to the motor enclosure I would guess it's next to the other incoming red wire and is from the motor cover interlock which someone has made redundant.
Red on Boxfords used to be the control circuit colour, look at your transformer output / interlocks to check.

Looking at your photos I would say the suds pump which is supplied by the Brown, Blue and Black wires going to the switch, as said above check where these come from and the switch output. If these check out OK take the cover plate off the motor and check the connections there.

Before all that though does the switch rotate all the way round, or is it two or three position?, according to your second photo the knob/switch is upside down to the panel, has it turned in the panel or the forward/reverse switch and someone has swapped the switches.

You assume right in that that bundle goes to the motor, but there is a couple of the screws loose near the other red wire

 

[CaptainPugwash]

So the white switch knob is rounded off on the spindle? Remove it and turn the spindle with mole grips.

It will turn and click into about 5 positions on the clock face, not just the on and off places, I've stripped it back to the plastic spline in the switch and it will turn and click into all those faces like that

 

[Pete.]

Ok, basics first. If the lathe motor runs fwds/backwards then your supply is good. That switch on the panel has 3 lives going in and 3 going out. Check the ones going in. If you can run the motor but there's no voltage across any of those wires then your pump and switch are not the problem. Un-plug the machine and follow the wires back to where they come from. Take a pic. If there is voltage at those wires going in, but none going out, the switch is at fault. If you need a new switch I probably have something suitable.

 

[500e]

Was going to draw it @Pete. but my drawings bear no resemblance to anything in the known world, I just cant put it on paper
CP if you cant get 240V across 2 incoming phases or 1 to earth the meter is suspect.
Have you checked it

 

[RichardM]

If you want to prove the suds motor you could just swap the suds motor feed ABC RED from the switch with the main motor feed from the collector block ABC WHITE. and test the suds pump that way.



I assume the switch is a Kraus & Naimer one, if you find the switch number on the label you should find the details in the pdf I posted.

 

[CaptainPugwash]

435v ish before the switch

 

[CaptainPugwash]

Ok, basics first. If the lathe motor runs fwds/backwards then your supply is good. That switch on the panel has 3 lives going in and 3 going out. Check the ones going in. If you can run the motor but there's no voltage across any of those wires then your pump and switch are not the problem. Un-plug the machine and follow the wires back to where they come from. Take a pic. If there is voltage at those wires going in, but none going out, the switch is at fault. If you need a new switch I probably have something suitable.

Thanks

 

[6ply]

I realise you are not asking for this, but I have the identical coolant pump (currently unused) that runs perfectly well on a single phase supply with an additional capacitor.

 

[CaptainPugwash]

I was trying to work through the above but turned the lathe on and the suds pump came on!

I messed around with the switches and their positions and it seems to be working but the wiring is obviously not correct because it seems possible to switch the suds on with the lathe switch if the green button hasn't been pressed I think. I think it may be something to do with the cut off for the lathe motor/pulley door

So it's kind of working at the moment

 

[brightspark]

Some where the 3 phases going to the motor no longer have voltage on them where does the loose wire go. Remember 3 phase can kill you no problem

single phase 240v can kill you no probs its the current that kills you not the voltage unless its over 415 v

 

[Pete.]

I was trying to work through the above but turned the lathe on and the suds pump came on!

I messed around with the switches and their positions and it seems to be working but the wiring is obviously not correct because it seems possible to switch the suds on with the lathe switch if the green button hasn't been pressed I think. I think it may be something to do with the cut off for the lathe motor/pulley door

So it's kind of working at the moment

Could be the pump supply is coming from the contactor output for the motor. So the motor must be on to run the pump but if you leave the pump switched on it will run as soon as you start the motor. It's a silly thing to do because you might want to run the coolant independantly to cool something off. You could fix this by running the feed wire for the pump from the contactor inpt instead of the output.

 

[Matrixx]

435v ish before the switch
View attachment 382347

L3 has signs of overheating, possibly a loose terminal. they need to be remade and tightened up.

 

[RichardM]

435v ish before the switch
View attachment 382347

I'd clean all three inputs, they all look a dodgy.


Green button for motor start should not make any difference to the suds pump that is from the input side of the contactor, motor output should be after the overload.

 

[CaptainPugwash]

L3 has signs of overheating, possibly a loose terminal. they need to be remade and tightened up.

Cleaned up all three inputs cheers

Thanks for all help from everyone on this thread. Seems to be ok now as long as I don't mess with pulley door. Someone made a hash of trying to bypass its safety cut off.