Hi, i wil be welding up an exhaust and i'm hoping to use my inverter arc, it does not have the TIG function, but since it's an inverter and the amps can be set variabley from as low as 5amps, does anyone see me having a problem with this? I know arc is usually no good for thin metal, but due to it being an inverter, can it be done?
- Thread starter undecided
- Start date
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
- Messages
- 13,678
you might strugle to get the rod to arc on the lower settings. try some scrap first and see how you get on
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
- Messages
- 9,741
- Location
- Bedford UK
I did some experiments the other day to work out how thin material could be with an arc welder. 2mm minimum welded on the flat was my thought for stuff that doesn't need to be nice, but preferably 3mm plus for anything that needs to be half reasonable.
Of course I tried 1.5mm. My Syncrowave winds down to 5 amps, and I had it set around 40 on a butt joint which ended up full of holes and slag, and with very variable penetration. Wouldn't have fancied welding around a pipe.
Give it a shot by all means, but it's unlikely to be easy or result in a good weld. MIG would be a lot easier.
Of course I tried 1.5mm. My Syncrowave winds down to 5 amps, and I had it set around 40 on a butt joint which ended up full of holes and slag, and with very variable penetration. Wouldn't have fancied welding around a pipe.
Give it a shot by all means, but it's unlikely to be easy or result in a good weld. MIG would be a lot easier.
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
- Messages
- 7,586
- Location
- Stone Mountain, GA USA
It can be done. I did a piece of conduit (1.2mm) with some 1.6mm 6013 rods. Have also tried 1mm steel. Some tips:
1. Run DCEN, supposed to have less penetration.
2. move fast
3. Lower the angle of the rod to 45 degrees. I have also tried even a lower angle with varying results.
4. If you have a hot start feature, it really helps.
5. Preheat the rods
6. Make sure the parts have very little gap.
7. remove any burrs from the edge.
8. position to do vertical down if possible.
Takes a lot of practice, most welds will neda a bit of touch up as you will miss one side of the metal at times as you need to move fast.
9. very short arc length, I drag small 6013 rods.
10. 7014 rods are easier as they are medium-low penetration and have much less chance of slag inclusions.
1. Run DCEN, supposed to have less penetration.
2. move fast
3. Lower the angle of the rod to 45 degrees. I have also tried even a lower angle with varying results.
4. If you have a hot start feature, it really helps.
5. Preheat the rods
6. Make sure the parts have very little gap.
7. remove any burrs from the edge.
8. position to do vertical down if possible.
Takes a lot of practice, most welds will neda a bit of touch up as you will miss one side of the metal at times as you need to move fast.
9. very short arc length, I drag small 6013 rods.
10. 7014 rods are easier as they are medium-low penetration and have much less chance of slag inclusions.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,086
- Location
- Hull UK
ive done exhausts in years gone bye just make sure (if its rotten) you plate quite a bit bigger then the hole so as to try and avoid more rot
Hi All!
undecided,
You can weld up your thin exhaust with the machine you have! It will not be easy or good looking, but it can be done! Think about heat dams, i.e. copper blocks etc. to remove the welding heat away from the weld as quick as possible! Welding downwards will put less heat into the exhaust system, because your travelling faster!
Regards
undecided,
You can weld up your thin exhaust with the machine you have! It will not be easy or good looking, but it can be done! Think about heat dams, i.e. copper blocks etc. to remove the welding heat away from the weld as quick as possible! Welding downwards will put less heat into the exhaust system, because your travelling faster!
Regards
