Advice on Polyurethane paint

[ChrisBailey]

Hi all,
This year I hope to be painting my project car. It's a fibreglass body.
I'd like to paint it with polyurethane paint, a bit of research suggests it's hard wearing and works well with GRP bodies.
I'm going to use a paint roller for the interior parts of the car, however would like to spray the exterior (in sections).
I am trying to avoid the paint with Isocyanates in it, so I can spray.
Does anybody know if a single pack polyurethane paint needs a full forced air fed mask for spraying?
The paint I'm hoping to use is here. https://www.taindustrialpaints.co.uk/products/1k-polyurethane-paint?_pos=1&_sid=62721885c&_ss=r
I can't find much in the way of safety on the Web page .

Thanks in advance

 

[winchman]

I use this place as several good body shops recommended it always great even for the more difficult applications.

Home Page - Car Paint from AutoPaint St Helens

Specialists for car paint, touch up paint, mixed aerosols, refinishing ancillaries, Custom paint, colour matching and metallic pearl car paints inc RAL colours for DIY or professional use. Over 30 years in the business

www.auto-paint.co.uk

 

[DanZac]

Best way to get the correct answer is to ask the paint supplier. They'll be able to provide the COSHH data sheets which will give you all the information you need.

Without the COSHH Data sheets anything else is pretty much a guess.

I've used them a few times for various things and they've been good to deal with, with prompt service, so wouldn't hesitate to call and ask the questions.

Advice Line
Need more information about our products? Give us a call on 01902 954948 or email us at sales@taindustrialpaints.co.uk

 

[tigdlo]

If you do get a proper respirator set up for spraying isocyanates then Lechler LS155 (29155) Acritop 2K could be a good option. https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/61c4cecf/files/uploaded/LS155 (29155) Acritop.pdf

 

[frank horton]

if u do all the prep I'm sure it wont cost that much for a decent / great blow over...
unless u want to do it ur self

 

[ChrisBailey]

The car isn't worth a real paint job. The original body moulding is rubbish and it's 40 years old. It's all sorts of warped and never fit when new.
I'm painting it for a tidy look but nothing close to a pro job. That's why it's DIY.
Really want a paint that doesn't need the full shebang booth setup as I'll probly only do it once.
I'm not going near isocyanates.

 

[ajlelectronics]

The car isn't worth a real paint job. The original body moulding is rubbish and it's 40 years old. It's all sorts of warped and never fit when new.
I'm painting it for a tidy look but nothing close to a pro job. That's why it's DIY.
Really want a paint that doesn't need the full shebang booth setup as I'll probly only do it once.
I'm not going near isocyanates.

OK, epoxy primer as normal then for metallics, get some basecoat of your choice to spray next. Follow that with the best 1k lacquer your body shop supplier has in stock. You can do the same for non metallics, otherwise get the best 1k acrylic your bodyshop has. Plan A is the best finish though.

 

[Keith 66]

For what its worth i use single pack polyurethanes on boats quite a bit. I used to spray boats with 2k poly & got quite good at it but stopped partly due to health considerations partly down turn in the business & nowhere to do it safely.
Single pack poly is different, Far safer but superb results can be had. For boats i use brush & tip off method, Apply paint with short mohair roller vertically & swift horizontal strokes with a good quality brush. Most people think boats i have done are sprayed.
You can also spray the stuff, You will find the wet edge when spraying lasts longer & if you put too much on it sags & runs will result. You cannot lay it on thick like 2k acrylic which goes off way quicker.
On boats Hempels & International Toplac are good on GRP, Best paint i have used is Epifanes Monourethane but it aint cheap.
Once dry & hardened off they are durable but more importantly when you scratch the side of the boat it wont make you cry as much as ballsing up an expensive spray job!

 

[ChrisBailey]

I am considering roller painting the whole car.
If it rolls on nicely and doesn't obviously look like a roller job.

 

[Keith 66]

I find on boats rolling only tends to give an orange peely surface, you need the brush to smooth it out. Sounds like a bit of practice might be in order!

 

[charlysays]

I am considering roller painting the whole car.
If it rolls on nicely and doesn't obviously look like a roller job.

HMG Nisocoat 2 or Ultrimax 2 is a good option for spraying without air fed RPE. These paints should be no more dangerous than epoxy primers according to the MSDS. You should be able to get a tidy mirror glossy finish off the gun if you paint it in sections although in my experience some peel is inevitable. These polyamide hardened 2k acrylic top coats tend to flash off very fast and also don't atomise as well as iso paints but if you hose them on, use a generous helping of slow 2k thinner and paint in sections you can get a decent gun finish. They are very durable to be fair. I did my daily car heading on 4 years ago and its not suffered visibly from UV or weathering at all despite being outside 24/7. Leagues better than 1k!
There is a Nisocoat 2 clear which works over standard solvent automotive basecoats, my mate used it and said its easier to spray than the direct gloss.
That said I've seen photos of people getting amazing finishes with a roller and a fine brush so that could be worth a go because there would be a significant saving in terms of not needing a spray gun, large compressor, paraphernalia to remove water from the air etc, not creating loads of overspray as well as using whatever paints you want. With a bit of practice you could get a great finish and move it towards a perfect finish as far as you want via wet sanding and polishing.

 

[jo1010]

I'd really recommend checking the ingredients on your chosen paint brand - some (non iso) have carcinogens that probably won't give immediate symptoms, but may cause health problems a few years down the line (eg chromates in epoxy for one). I'd use full face masks and appropriate filters ....not in a confined space either....and probably superior to air fed masks (unless the quality of the compressed air has been recently tested - and there are pro body shops that often fail to test enough bc of the expense of testing - aerosolled oil is as much a health hazard as paint chemicals). If you can smell the paint when spraying youre not protected...

 

[norsa]

Good advice above. It's a fact that the only thing that should enter the lungs is fresh air. Having said that, in the old days, we would drink half a pint of milk then go in and shoot cells. Fortunately, HSE does not approve this method any more.
Nick

 

[ChrisBailey]

Agreed, I've contacted TA paint but haven't had a response yet.
I got Polyurethane primer and black top coat and the hazard symbols on the tins give me enough warning to get proper protection before playing with it.

 

[jo1010]

Looks like zinc phosphate 1k to me. If you've not used this before I'd do some test sprays first on some scrap metal ....full panels (primer and topcoat) to get a feeling for whether finish quality is acceptable to you. You might need to tweak things without having to scrub it off the car you really want to paint ..... But for that paint I'd probably just use A2/P2 filters on a half mask, but loads of through ventilation or paint outside when weather is warmer. Let us know how it goes

 

[charlysays]

I'd really recommend checking the ingredients on your chosen paint brand - some (non iso) have carcinogens that probably won't give immediate symptoms, but may cause health problems a few years down the line (eg chromates in epoxy for one). I'd use full face masks and appropriate filters ....not in a confined space either....and probably superior to air fed masks (unless the quality of the compressed air has been recently tested - and there are pro body shops that often fail to test enough bc of the expense of testing - aerosolled oil is as much a health hazard as paint chemicals). If you can smell the paint when spraying youre not protected...

good advice. Some still use lead pigments too.
Shaving the same day you're spraying is vital and my thoughts are to wear the mask before you even open the paint tin so you don't get used to the smell. That way you'll smell if there are any issues much more easily.