Advice needed please to repair/paint bumper

  1. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    I removed a splitter from the front of my 'new to me' BMW as it was ridiculously low!

    I had an awful job getting it off as it was factory fitted with some sort of bitumastic (I think) glue and took me two days with a hairdryer and lots of patience to remove it.

    Now I can't seem to sand it down to a fine enough finish to spray it. There still seems to be black glue (rubbery stuff) that won't rub down and I tried filler but it looks awful. I am considering using some stonechip type paint and then spray/lacquer it but don't want it to look cheap and nasty.

    Any ideas please?

    20200328_140302.jpg 20200328_140305.jpg 20200328_140308.jpg
     
  2. a111r Member

    Messages:
    302
    Location:
    London
    That looks like it's been repaired and painted, quite badly. On a relatively new car I think you need a body shop to repaint it.
    At least take out the plastic grille.
     
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  3. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    Thanks ... I'll hang fire until allowed out in it again !!!
     
  4. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,223
    cambridge uk
    what do you want the repair to look like ? you mention stone chip , then what colour it?

    dont see why it wont sand up , just needs more time spent on it,and use fine paper on plastic
     
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  5. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    Hi Steveo....only mentioned stonechip as a means of covering the 'rubber residue' that's left behind. Would rather it was smooth really. I'll persevere with sanding and see if I can get down to just plastic (or whatever the bumper is made of) ....if I can get it smooth enough I can possibly use some fine 'stopper' to get it ready for primer?? I have got an aerosol of C1G (Snapper Rocks Blue) ......and it's only a very small area .....so.......what could go wrong :ashamed:
     
  6. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,223
    cambridge uk
    yeah okay , so crack on with something like 800 wet n dry , will take a while

    once its smooth , plastic primer + high build , it might look a bit hairy , so once the primer is dry sand it with 800 and reprime until its totaly smooth
     
  7. the snooper

    the snooper getting older by the day

    Messages:
    20,350
    Location:
    Hull UK
    Looking at those pictures you've used to coarse a sandpaper, my advice would be to machine sand of any of the adhesive using a 240 disc maximum the sand paper you have used was far too course, it leaves the plastic fluffy, once you've flatted it off you'll need a coat of plastic primer followed by some high build filler primer or epoxy and it will be a case of primer flat with 800 wet paper and repeat until you get it smooth again
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
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  8. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    Ok thanks again guys....I've got all of that stuff except plastic primer (never heard of it !! must be on EBAY though) ......and I have lots and lots of time on my hands ........watch this space for tremendous results to come :laughing::laughing:
     
  9. Matchless

    Matchless Member

    Messages:
    712
    Location:
    Essex UK
    but you do need to pull the grille out of the way, will make the job a lot better and easier,
     
  10. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    I'll see how the grill is attached....agree better removed. Daft question here - I've got a dual action polisher but never used (or imagined) it can be used for sanding? I've read the instructions and it says wet sanding is a no no but I have a 125mm hook and loop disc ..could I use this for the initial 240 grit (dry) sanding to save my old elbows a bit??
     
  11. the snooper

    the snooper getting older by the day

    Messages:
    20,350
    Location:
    Hull UK
    Yeah you should be able to use the dual action with the 240 disc and you instantly see better results, use 800 wet and dry by hand for flatting in-between coats, plastic primer will be an aerosol just one coat and on with your choice of primer
     
  12. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    Great I'll order some discs and primer....
     
  13. Matchless

    Matchless Member

    Messages:
    712
    Location:
    Essex UK
    if there are no visible screws from the outside it is just a push fit, must be someone on you tube with a video,
     
  14. Matchless

    Matchless Member

    Messages:
    712
    Location:
    Essex UK
    I think that hole to the right of the fog lamp will be an adjuster not a mounting screw! may be a second adjuster at 90 degrees
     
  15. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Are you sure about that? I doubt the splitter would have been fixed using the 'gunge' you mention.

    If you want to get the full build spec for your car, enter the VIN here https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/BMW , this might detail which 'extras' were factory fitted. :dontknow:
     
  16. gerrymoore

    gerrymoore CNC expert (well, getting there!)

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Wirral UK
    Hi Slim....yes it was a genuine BMW carbon fibre splitter - car was specced with full MSport 'goodies' splitter, side skirts, boot spoiler, diffuser, etc..... total cost on the build sheet just for all the extras ( HK Pro7 audio, active cruise, LED's, etc.) was almost £10K :o
     
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