Advice needed from a proper mechanic

[the repair man]

lol it is worse, I haven't mentioned the water cooling circulation problem yet, or that I dropped a bolt in my alternator which then spat out copper windings!

 

[the repair man]

Bring back RWD I hate fwd cars, this would have been done in an hour on a sierra or similar! And egr valves? whats the point, just means you have to remove it as soon as you buy the car...modern tom foolery. Why would anyone think, I know lets push plumes of burnt gasses back into the engine, that'll help! It doesn't even help emissions, at least not ones that are tested. Modern technology pftt. Perhaps a thread about the idiocy of modern car manufacturing, and all the end user gripes about them lol

 

[normspanners]

I know this may seem a daft question are your front tyres the same size, I have had this on many cars I had one only last week on a freelander somebody had fitted one tyre the wrong size, one size aspect ratio out been on the car for months it actually wore out the opposite tyre, also are yours the same style of tyre because some can be quite different aspect ratio even for the same apparent size, also some abs is so sensitive it can tell the difference between new and worn tyres because the count ratio is out of parameters. My mate runs is a gearbox and clutch specialist and he has loads of problems with tyres causing noises that you would not believe.
I had a rangerover a few mths ago that had an annoying rattle for only 2mins whilst it was warming up it was owned by a garage, it had had a gearbox, diffs, wheel brgs fitted etc etc. I put my chassis ears on it and found it was from the back of the engine somwhere they stripped out the auto gearbox again, i was expecting a cracked drive plate but it turned out to be the engine rear main brg was cracked !!

 

[the repair man]

Fortunately for me, at a standstill there is no problem, so my big ends are ok for now. The tyres, I don't recall if all are same design etc. Size yes they are correct. But again, wheels have been balanced and rotated, so not likely to be that simple. I did question the garage re buckled wheels, when it was being balanced, He said there is no test as such, just a visual as it would show up easy enough.

 

[normspanners]

Perhaps a thread about the idiocy of modern car manufacturing,

DUCKING DELL, I could fill it, HAH.
PLEASE NO I would spend my life typing!!

 

[the repair man]

Something no-one has mentioned, could a slightly bent hub, or something similar cause it..or would that show up throughout the rev range / speed range

 

[normspanners]

Sorry I didnt mention the range rover was only making the noise as it drove but only for 2mins !!
I doubt a bent hub, it is very hard to bend them as they are that short it would take MASSIVE Force
I have had tyres that have been balanced and 'checked' and are in theory perfect but they are only balanced at about 20 mph and if a carcass is faulty it can manifest itself only at speed and under load they also can expand in dia because of centrifugal force and go WAY out of shape

 

[Wedg1e]

I was thinking incorrectly-fitted wheel bearing... as you've been swapping driveshafts about it has to be something common to the assemblies.

 

[normspanners]

PS those vvc engines suffer crank / big end bearing failure. I have one stripped here at the moment with the crank gone

 

[normspanners]

I was thinking incorrectly-fitted wheel bearing... as you've been swapping driveshafts about it has to be something common to the assemblies.

Wheel brgs usually make a massive noise if only slightly worn /damaged, if fitted incorrectly they would be VERY NOISEY all the time

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Had a Passat 2.0GL auto with similar problem. Ended up changing discs, tyres, wheel bearings and both ends CV joints of driveshafts (4 in total and VERY expensive). Turned out to be diff bearings.

Paul h

 

[the repair man]

I fear that outcome!

 

[normspanners]

Had a Passat 2.0GL auto with similar problem. Ended up changing discs, tyres, wheel bearings and both ends CV joints of driveshafts (4 in total and VERY expensive). Turned out to be diff bearings.

exactly as i predicted with this one the brg races can breakup, and the tapered rollers can catch each other up and work like a sprag bearing trying to lock one side of the diff but can free up as it gets up to a high speed or nuetral throttle

 

[the repair man]

Ok, I'm missing a knuckle and part of my thumb, but the n/s drive shaft is out. Next question...Is the bearing in the diff fitted from inside or out? I have got the oil seal out of the diff housing, and whilst in bits, may as well replace that bearing ( is this the BRG? ) I would prefer not to have to drop the box out, as I'm working with 3 scissor jacks here, no hoist etc I would love to hear, that if I can get the bearing out, it is a push fit from outside...please???
Oh and what is the name for this bearing so I can order/price one

BRG = bearing...doh

Cheers all

 

[normspanners]

No the diff bearings need the G/B housing splitting and them pressing off the diff casing but you would check the diff cross shafts at the same time .
It is probably the BUSH you are looking at, it is for the inner cv, that will not probably not worn unless the actual diff brgs have gone completely, all that does is support the cv joint.

 

[normspanners]

Ps if you had exactly the same noise with two seperate drive shafts then it is not likely to be the problem, one thing you need to check when the shaft is in, is that when the shaft is gripped that you have sliding movement in the shaft in and out usually in the inner pot/ c/v joint this allowes the engine to move but also allows the shaft to travel through its suspension radii without bottoming out in the inner cv
this is NOT the cv moving because that is held in the diff by a spring clip but the actual shaft moving inside the pot joint.

 

[the repair man]

There is a castellated nut covered by a castellated locking ring, that is all I can see.
When I put the splined shaft and cup in, without the cv joint and rest of the shaft, there is a small amount of play. I am doing this without the retaining ring for easier removal.
But I suspect this small amount of play may translate to a large vibrating at speed.
Norm, I really didn't want to hear that g'box removal is required, try again! This time I want a cheap easy solution please lol
Incidentally, I don't know what diff cross shafts are, so will delay checking them for now

 

[the repair man]

There is no noise as such, just the car making noises from being rattled around so vigorously

 

[normspanners]

There is a castellated nut covered by a castellated locking ring, that is all I can see.
When I put the splined shaft and cup in, without the cv joint and rest of the shaft, there is a small amount of play. I am doing this without the retaining ring for easier removal.
But I suspect this small amount of play may translate to a large vibrating at speed.
Norm, I really didn't want to hear that g'box removal is required, try again! This time I want a cheap easy solution please lol
Incidentally, I don't know what diff cross shafts are, so will delay checking them for now

Where are you seeing the castellated nut ?
the splined shaft of the cv when entered in the gearbox usually has an oillite type bush and there maybe a small amount of play up down there.
the play I was talking about is the required play that is needed laterally ie in and out of the actual drive shaft where it enters the inner cv pot joint this should be in the region of 20-30mm so that the shaft doesnt butt out in the bottom of the pot joint.
Are you sure about the tyres ? because as said they CAN cause problems even though they have been checked by 'professionals' a delaminating tyre could balance up perfectly BUT at 50 60 mph the tread moves away from the carcass and slaps the road hard causing vibrations

 

[AndyStobbs]

Flywheel is indeed solid. No more to add sorry.