Adcock Shipley 1ESG - various jobs

[Pete.]

Can't help you with that one, mine is pinned to the screw so that it doesn't come undone. Obviously the screw is push-pull so that it can pull in or eject from the taper. The internal shoulder is for ejecting so the screw had to go out through the front.

Since the nut in the pic is for 'pulling' against, it must be either pinned of left hand thread or else it would come undone when tightening the drawbar.

 

[6ply]

@Pete. What do you reckon of these oil grooves on the ways? They don't look deep enough to me.
View attachment 429876

Maybe even they were added at a later date? I would have thought a zig zag would be much better for lubrication.

 

[Agroshield]

...would have been nice to have had a fine feed quill

As a halfway house, good for drilling (uses ER20 on a 30 taper), see below. The cap that goes on the spindle nose is not too difficult to make and a straight shank ER collet holder would make a good start on the rest of it. Everything rotates with the spindle so you only need a thrust bearing between the lever and quill.

 

[Agroshield]

Since the nut in the pic is for 'pulling' against, it must be either pinned of left hand thread or else it would come undone when tightening the drawbar.

Are we talking of the same nut? I was under the impression he was showing the X-axis leadscrew nut as post #8.

 

[Pete.]

Maybe even they were added at a later date? I would have thought a zig zag would be much better for lubrication.

Zig zags prevent a ridge from forming in the part opposite the oil groove when they are straight along. Yours show quite significant wear but no galling to see so even though it's heavily worn it' been lubed somewhat at least.

You can re-cut oil grooves with a small router and carbide end mill, using a straight edge and a makeshift stop.

 

[Pete.]

Are we talking of the same nut? I was under the impression he was showing the X-axis leadscrew nut as post #8.

No he's on about the securing nut on the end of the drawbar.

 

[6ply]

No he's on about the securing nut on the end of the drawbar.

I'm not.

 

[6ply]

Are we talking of the same nut? I was under the impression he was showing the X-axis leadscrew nut as post #8.

That's the one.

 

[Pete.]

I'm not.

Well now I'm confused. What's this pic for then?

 

[Pete.]

Okay forget I said anything. That IS the x-axis nut but it looks exactly like the drawbar nut on my machine.

 

[RichardM]

Give it a clean and see if you can make out which way the threads are going.

 

[6ply]

Okay forget I said anything. That IS the x-axis nut but it looks exactly like the drawbar nut on my machine.


View attachment 429900

No problem. I must confess I was getting a bit confused reading one of your replies.

 

[6ply]

Give it a clean and see if you can make out which way the threads are going.

I'll see if I can do that.

 

[6ply]

Zig zags prevent a ridge from forming in the part opposite the oil groove when they are straight along. Yours show quite significant wear but no galling to see so even though it's heavily worn it' been lubed somewhat at least.

You can re-cut oil grooves with a small router and carbide end mill, using a straight edge and a makeshift stop.

I've got a router so will add that job to the growing list. If I use my small router, it's fixed speed and runs at a million rpm but I guess that won't be a problem. I will need to buy a carbide ball nose cutter and practise first.

 

[brightspark]

just use a die grinder with a cone shaped carbide rotary cutter and follow the curve on the oil groove

 

[6ply]

just use a die grinder with a cone shaped carbide rotary cutter and follow the curve on the oil groove

I'm considering adding new grooves rather than enlarging/deepening existing ones if that is what you meant? I suspect a die grinder and cutter would have a tendency to skip if not following an existing path.

 

[6ply]

Oil or grease? What would your preference be? Previously fed by one shot oiler but I'd prefer grease for these. If for no other reason than reducing oil drops on floor and oily handles. Obviously very low speed, low force, no heat.

 

[6ply]

I've tried heat and as much force as I can apply without risking the lead screw nuts. I can't see any thread. The end nut still isn't moving. I'm going to have to remove the assembly, to hopefully slide the screw out so I can get it clamped in a vice and apply more force.

 

[6ply]

Screw is out.

 

[6ply]

This is becoming annoying. Any more force and I reckon I risk shearing it off.
@brightspark any chance you can confirm it is a r/h thread?