Accurately cutting 8x4 sheets of 25 mm Stok board ..... advice sought

[DAPPH]

I've cut it with a jigsaw, hand held circular saw and table saw. The way carbide blades cut, there's very little heat build up. They all cut fine.

Be sure you want to use it for that though, as mentioned, it's heavy. Also performs terribly when hot, a hot day, sees it expand and buckle and sag all over the place, let alone if it's in direct sun!

Thanks for that , I noticed the sag where the sheets of board over hung the pallet for six months or more during the hot summer .
Luckily the rails of the staging have an inside continuous 30 mm x 3 mm lip on each of the 3mtr sections and have flat 30 mm wide welded in cross members every 400 mm and a cental flat bar theb length of the 3mtr section , so in effect like six point supported panels of 400 x 250 mm .

If it's riveted down with big flat head rivets like the resin impregnated ply boarding I'm replacing , it should stay reasonably stable & flat . It does not have to be , " As flat as ****-on-a-plate " ( as my Canadian father in law used to say )

 

[DAPPH]

Its awful stuff, best used for linning stables. Also heavy and expensive considering its just recycled bale wrap.

But is very durable and doesnt rot. Though not sure it will make good shelves unless the supports are fairly close together. Ive cut it with both a battery milwaukee saw and an old main black and decker. With what ever blades there supplied with. Chips go everywhere.

It's being used because the 400 or so bonsai trees in small pots , from mid April to end of October are on a time clocked watering system that micro mist spray the plants with a very fine misting spray every 500mm or so . In truth I'm surprised the resin impregnated ply has survived so long . Was looking at EXPM or square 10 mm punch plate in stainless cut to size & delivered here , till I saw the price and also realised roots would grow down through the pot drainage holes and into the EXPM.

 

[gaz1]

Those vids look easily doable for me .
Being disabled I can never rely on being fit enough long enough to use hired or borrowed gear in a reasonable time ( I purchased a cement mixer , Hitachi sabre saw . Hitachi grinders etc etc & a 240 volt medium road breaker for the same reason seven years ago .

remember i use this material alot when fitting out floors

the flooring i have has already the backing on them with rubber mote if you dont have the backing on them standared silicone will do the same put strips onto it with tape spatula the silicone on pull the strips off and it does the same as non slip

i didnt like the screw method of the slider but the method can be used for the flooring instead as the above video saw slide

those vids is what i adapted around for my build simple and easy

 

[sako243]

Thanks for that , I noticed the sag where the sheets of board over hung the pallet for six months or more during the hot summer .
Luckily the rails of the staging have an inside continuous 30 mm x 3 mm lip on each of the 3mtr sections and have flat 30 mm wide welded in cross members every 400 mm and a cental flat bar theb length of the 3mtr section , so in effect like six point supported panels of 400 x 250 mm .

If it's riveted down with big flat head rivets like the resin impregnated ply boarding I'm replacing , it should stay reasonably stable & flat . It does not have to be , " As flat as ****-on-a-plate " ( as my Canadian father in law used to say )

If it's like the 2x4s I picked up for my parents and used to replace some bench slats in the local hall. It's crap - I can't remember what spacing I had in the end (not much more than 500mm) and over 4 beams a person sitting on it would still deform it.

 

[hotponyshoes]

If it's riveted down with big flat head rivets like the resin impregnated ply boarding I'm replacing , it should stay reasonably stable & flat . It does not have to be , " As flat as ****-on-a-plate " ( as my Canadian father in law used to say )

Does it need to be fixed down?
If not, it could be flipped over easier if it does start to sag.

 

[MetalMonkey]

I'd just use a circ saw and a clamp on straight edge. Mine came from Rutlands, they still sell them but they are a different design now. Mine is like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CMT-PGC-36-Professional-Straight-36-Inch/dp/B00JY6X6PW

Watch out for the cheap generic ones, they have a couple of mm of movement when clamped, which throws out the cut.
The one I have locks up solid and you can cut perfectly on a pencil line. I made a simple spacer block the same width as the distance between the blade and the edge of the base on the saw, so I can position the guide quicky without measuring.

 

[Bravheart]

Word of warning stock board expands and contracts with heat. Probably OK on a shelf sized piece but 8x4 sheets will buckle a bit on a sunny day. I've sheeted many gates and the buckling Probably looks worse when sheets are rivited/bolted tight, normally tie loosely now with cable ties.
As for cutting an angle grinder will do the job fine with a cutting or diamond disk, however you might want it straighter than I can usually make it even with a straight edge to run against its not perfect.
You probably don't want mdf but b+q will cut any sheet and as many cuts to any size you want included in the sheet price. Sell the stockboard probably at a profit and get mdf, will still warp if not supported but imo stock board will be worse.

 

[Turbo]

Word of warning stock board expands and contracts with heat. Probably OK on a shelf sized piece but 8x4 sheets will buckle a bit on a sunny day. I've sheeted many gates and the buckling Probably looks worse when sheets are rivited/bolted tight, normally tie loosely now with cable ties.
As for cutting an angle grinder will do the job fine with a cutting or diamond disk, however you might want it straighter than I can usually make it even with a straight edge to run against its not perfect.
You probably don't want mdf but b+q will cut any sheet and as many cuts to any size you want included in the sheet price. Sell the stockboard probably at a profit and get mdf, will still warp if not supported but imo stock board will be worse.

MDF + daily watering = a dissolving shelf!

 

[Bravheart]

OK missed the bit about getting wet somewhere, forget my last paragraph.

 

[DAPPH]

Does it need to be fixed down?
If not, it could be flipped over easier if it does start to sag.

If you think I'd be happy humping 400 bonsai from bench to bench @100 gram to 18 kg each to turn the boards overyou have a funy sense of humour .

 

[hotponyshoes]

If you think I'd be happy humping 400 bonsai from bench to bench @100 gram to 18 kg each to turn the boards overyou have a funy sense of humour .

If you've got 7.2tons of bonsai you are quite literally growing money on trees.
Pay somebody to hump for you

 

[DAPPH]

Word of warning stock board expands and contracts with heat. Probably OK on a shelf sized piece but 8x4 sheets will buckle a bit on a sunny day. I've sheeted many gates and the buckling Probably looks worse when sheets are rivited/bolted tight, normally tie loosely now with cable ties.
As for cutting an angle grinder will do the job fine with a cutting or diamond disk, however you might want it straighter than I can usually make it even with a straight edge to run against its not perfect.
You probably don't want mdf but b+q will cut any sheet and as many cuts to any size you want included in the sheet price. Sell the stockboard probably at a profit and get mdf, will still warp if not supported but imo stock board will be worse.

Kin ell ..There are 500 , 12 mm flatheads x 22mm body pop rivets winging there way to me as of 12.00 hrs yesterday .

Think I've got the solution in my head this morning , after sleeping on the subject to get a decent repeatable accurate straight cut over the 8 foot length of the boards .

I have a straight 12 foot heavy duty extending ladder ladder and a load of profiled aluminium track from a disabled persons stair lift chair system

I'll see if I can cobble up a carrier for my 115 angle grinder ( and a depth of cut device ) with roller bearings clamped to on of the lipped stiles so it can easily , freely run along one of the stiles ...... if it the ladder is clamped to the board and some planed treated 9 inch floor joist beams ( as backing supports ) on the laid flat on the joists over trestles,
I've already made a "T" square in 40 &30 mm CLS with a scribing line screw poking through the arm at exactly 52.3 cm to quickly mark up boards repeatedly .

It won't take much to reposition the screw to the exact line to set the blade of the now carriage mounted grinder on .

 

[DAPPH]

If you've got 7.2tons of bonsai you are quite literally growing money on trees.
Pay somebody to hump for you

There are only a few 18 kg trays thankfully . One was delivered to a show site for a show this weekend ,

 

[MetalMonkey]

MDF + daily watering = a dissolving shelf!

You can actually get waterproof MDF believe it or not.
However, it is not cheap!

 

[DAPPH]

There are only a few 18 kg trays thankfully . One was delivered to a show site for a show this weekend ,

Re growing money on trees We went to a show a few years ago , the highest price at auction went of over £1600 to an international buyer . Total takings announced for the auction for plants alone was in the £ 40 K range .

Though most trees people have are worth less than the plastic plant pot they were grown on in for several years .
The money is in the way some one has skillfully reproduced any one of a number of classic shapes and at what stage of leaf , flower or sleep they sell them
Final pots the plants are eventually sold in can also be terribly expensive if made by a world renowned potter /artist ... think £ 5 k plus...... for some we have seem .

 

[DAPPH]

You can actually get waterproof MDF believe it or not.
However, it is not cheap!

Yep we have some of that green stuff under the threshold of our triple glazed house door