Abrasive Chop Saws

[Parm]

Got one of a member here quite a few months ago, can't remember who, it could have been Hughf.

Anyway, nothing wrong with the saw, it works great, I fact it's the first time I've used it.

How accurate are they supposed to be and should you cut to the line and hope for the best your should you leave the marking line strong and file/linish back?

Any other tips are welcome. It's a handy bit of kit that I would learn to use better

 

[Paul.]

I use one a lot for stainless box and flat, depending on the quality of the saw and the disc they can be surprisingly accurate, mine is a ryobi and has done a lot of work,
I find it helps to take the edge of a new disc by making a couple of cuts on scrap, don't force the cut but keep a steady pressure when cutting, support the work properly on both sides of the blade, I made a simple mitre fence for mine to save moving the vice.
some examples of what can be achieved here, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/pump-storage-trolley.55473/#post-656977

 

[Beeezer]

I’ve a hitachi chop saw in me shed with a couple or more new discs, not used it in a long time, been thinking about flogging it for a while, I shall dig it out tomorrow.
To messy for me, dust gets every where off the discs.

 

[Parm]

I've got a Makita, it's the first time I've ever used one today, it's an awesome bit of kit. Just need to learn how to use it properly

 

[gaz1]

i used mine recently was straight for cutting 5mm 100mm box section but took a while to do it on top of that it tripped my transformer a few times so took a little longer got wise to that one and turned it once to other side as long as you line it back up again it should cut through alot better until it starts cutting through both sides again

mine was a short piece of box section about a metre long though

also a makita 110v

 

[Shedendman]

I use one a lot for stainless box and flat, depending on the quality of the saw and the disc they can be surprisingly accurate, mine is a ryobi and has done a lot of work,
I find it helps to take the edge of a new disc by making a couple of cuts on scrap, don't force the cut but keep a steady pressure when cutting, support the work properly on both sides of the blade, I made a simple mitre fence for mine to save moving the vice.
some examples of what can be achieved here, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/pump-storage-trolley.55473/#post-656977

Cool idea with the mitre fence

 

[fixerupper]

Yeah used a chop saw cutting tons of 2x2 , 2x1, 1x1 box a lot when I worked in the Theatre..great tool ..we had ours set up on it's own long narrow bench in the workshop so the lengths of steel were supported , that way you can get very accurate cuts ....

 

[Robotstar5]

Main thing I found was making sure the material is supported so it's level on the saw table, you know if it's not if the steel "kicks" as the cut's completed.

 

[Johnseat]

Main thing I found was making sure the material is supported so it's level on the saw table, you know if it's not if the steel "kicks" as the cut's completed.

This is the only issue I have with my Evolution Rage chop saw, the base isn't big enough to self support the material it's cutting.

 

[Robotstar5]

This is the only issue I have with my Evolution Rage chop saw, the base isn't big enough to self support the material it's cutting.

If it's really long material I would use some offcuts of 4x2 along the length to support it, both sides of the table if necessary.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

This is the only issue I have with my Evolution Rage chop saw, the base isn't big enough to self support the material it's cutting.

And the work-piece clamps are pretty useless, really.

 

[fixerupper]

Yeah the clamp only holds it in the correct place for cutting, it won't stop the steel flexing ... when using a chop saw to cut long lengths of steel on the floor always have some bits of ply or something to pack under the steel to stop it flexing....

 

[GW8IZR]

There was someone on this very forum who had a cracking setup with the saw recessed into a long bench - its on my ever growing to do list.

Removable so the circular saw, router etc can be fitted into the same bench.

 

[postie jon]

This is the only issue I have with my Evolution Rage chop saw, the base isn't big enough to self support the material it's cutting.

i made a platform for each side of mine from off cuts of kitchen worktop , i put coachbolts through each corner upside down with the nut/washer on the underside,then u can adjust each foot till the platforms sit tottally level with the saw base, cuts are now perfect ,and no burr on box section either, also put a third m6 bolt on the vice backplate to make sure it stayed at 90 degrees to the blade.

 

[Parm]

Bit of an update.

I'm cutting SS angle to make a frame, one lot of cuts was ok, then I flipped the clamp to do the other ends, this is where it went all wrong as the pieces didn't line up.

Just spent the afternoon remarking, then grinding back with the mitre jig (accurately set) on the belt linisher

I need to make a mitre jig like Paul has shown in his post and learn how to mark and cut both ends without changing the jig