A question of construction and materials.

  1. Lazurus

    Lazurus Member

    Messages:
    929
    Location:
    Norfolk uk
    Capture.JPG
    I am in the position of having a purpose-built workshop for the first time in my life, this is just prior to retirement. I am looking at a 10m x 5m workshop in our back garden (subject to planning) It is currently in the design and application process. Initially I was going for a traditional double skin brick construction with insulation in keeping with the garage and bungalow – however I like the idea of a more modern looking dark grey cladding. The attached drawing shows the preliminary design. I am looking for low maintenance and, in the future, when I can no longer use a workshop converting the inside to an annex or sun room. So, I intend to put water and drainage utilities in at the point of build ready for future change of use. Can I ask advice on the best construction method and what is required in structural design to use exterior cladding, and, which type would be best?
     
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  2. mtt.tr

    mtt.tr Member

    Messages:
    4,100
    Essex England
    for me timber frame built to building regs, interanlly depending on use either concrete board with properly sealed joints or plasterboard

    behind the plaster on concrete board i would put on 9mm ply, allows hanging stuff of the walls
     
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  3. Hopefuldave Intergalactic pot-mender

    Messages:
    1,805
    Location:
    The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
    Does the Ghost Girl need permission from the Financial Controller (SWMBO)?

    PP has been relaxed a lot in the last few years, unless you've already used your Permitted Development rights - but if you plan for it to be a "habitable" space the Bulding Regulations requirements are more stringent than for a garage etc. (but less hassle than PP).

    As for construction, block, insulation then outer cladding would be good for energy efficiency, and the inner blockwork would be a good heat-store to reduce/slow temperature variations that could lead to condensation/rusty machinery? Would give you somewhere you could screw things to, always Useful. Always worth havng an RSJ / I-beam or three when you want to lift and hoist, too...

    Dave H. (the other one)
     
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  4. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,910
    UK London
    That would be my suggestion. Breeze block and external cladding (battens, kingspan and steel in your case).
     
  5. rtcosic

    rtcosic Member

    Don't know what your budget is, but I was impressed with this Garden Room build, which seems to tick all your boxes:

     
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  6. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,726
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    I have built a few workshops over the years along with all the usual badly planned feckups, aside of the obvious in the way of building regs and future proofing the build as a dwelling my emphasis would be on natural light and plenty of it.

    Bob
     
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  7. masleeve Member

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    Glasgow, Scotland
    Following this closely as that is my plan , I am thinking of using bekowalform - must be a throwback from my childhood -its like Lego
     
  8. frank horton

    frank horton V twins are great but 4"s rule.........

    Messages:
    2,234
    Location:
    Soon 2 B Crete
    steel frame and insulated panels for wall and roof.....for the frame u could use a box for beams and supports....
    these are 100x50x4mm......
    thats provided u dont want to lift weights.....
    then insulated (soft and lightweight block for the inside, then skimmed with plaster.....
    doing the same here for my ne workshop but hopefully 200m2 plus.....without the block work....
    my prob is keeping heat out not in.....hahaha...
    something like this may help...this is the big temp cover for my machines....5m H x7m W x7.5m D....
    on the front face the middle leg got removed for access for the fork lift will only get refitted for this winter.....another month maybe...
    this was made with as little material as poss because the frameing wont get used for other jobs for a while.....roof sheets will get used for the barn...
    steel here is 2'wice the price as UK..... IMG_5666.jpeg
     
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  9. addjunkie

    addjunkie Member

    Messages:
    6,484
    Location:
    Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
    I think if going timber frame, use that imitation wood, concrete cladding stuff, looks like feather edge boarding.
    Frame to building regs, and agree with lining with ply or osb, then concrete or plaster board over. Insulate the floor too.

    But all depends on your budget. Much as I dont like metal roofs, for a mono pitch near flat insulated panels would be my choice
     
  10. metalmelt Member

    Messages:
    597
    Location:
    UK
    I would agree with Frank, steel framing and sheet steel cladding gets around many building regs and this is why Portal frames are often used for commercial buildings.

    You need to decide if you want a concrete foundation or a slab, or a combined foundation and slab poured in one go. We often use something called a piled slab which is a series of round piles bored and lined with plastic pipe inside the slab, you can insulate the ground by laying polystyrene batts in a levelled sand base with a waterproof membrane between the sand and polystyrene batts or under the sand but this risks puncturing the membrane, you can get insulation batts in 144, 150, and 200mm thick nearly everywhere, if you use round piles you will have to cut the polystyrene around them.

    Ground screws? they have limited uses and they are certainly not suitable for soft ground or supporting anything other then the lightest of buildings and your wind loadings could be a huge issue as they dont anchor against wind very well, especially if you have taller walls (frontal areas) or are in a windy area.

    If you go for the slab or piled slab you have an insulated concrete slab and you can top it with either an outer brick for the full height of the wall, or part build to a specific height in brick on the outside and top off with grey cladding.
    If you use brick on the outside you can use insulated blocks on the inside, or, you can line the inside with quality timber and use Rockwool or similar in the cavity.

    By using steel (portal framing) you need a slab at least 150mm thick so you can drill 75-100mm into it and use chemical anchor and not penetrate the concrete slab, and you need the entries for your services in place before pouring it.
    You will need waste for a toilet and sink connections, another inlet for water, and another for electricity and the normal standard is they must be 600mm deep, on site we usually go 750mm deep to allow for any ground level variations.
     
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