A question for the woodists.

[Robotstar5]

Biscuits are definitely a better option than T&G on ply.

Worth making up some full length strips in place of biscuits to the right width and depth. Glue em in with pu and jobs a goodun.

Is that called a spline joint?

 

[bigegg]

Is that called a spline joint?

or a "loose tongue" or "loose tenon"

 

[gaz1]

the simplest lip is just running your circular saw blade set at 15 degrees and running it down your board

same with your other board as long as the lip edge points outwards the next lip edge will slot behind it

even setting at 10 or even 5 degrees will create a lip

 

[addjunkie]

Flooring boards are groved to glue the joints.....wayrock, egger board etc

 

[8ob]

I have bought a sort of T&G tool for the router and have potentially run into a problem My router is the plunge type and the tooling is bigger than the hole in the baseplate. This means the tool shank is not all the way into the small collet chuck, it also means I cant turn the thing on or let it run on unless plunged because the tool will eat the base plate. I probably dont need the fence because there is a bearing in the router bit on both male and female so I assume this will act as a depth gauge, is this the wrong tool for the job?

Help would be appreciated before I make a complete lashup of 1k`s worth of ply

Bob

 

[armalites]

You can either plung and lock the router and fit the bit and use it that way,you could clearance the base or get a router with a bigger hole but likely that would mean going to a 1/2 which would a new bit too.

I've used a few cutters like that on my 1/4 router by locking the router in the plunged position. The only downside is you need to spend a bit more time fiddling to get the depth correct when you switch cutters.

It looks like you have a threaded fine adjuster so you should be fine.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I have bought a sort of T&G tool for the router and have potentially run into a problem My router is the plunge type and the tooling is bigger than the hole in the baseplate. This means the tool shank is not all the way into the small collet chuck, it also means I cant turn the thing on or let it run on unless plunged because the tool will eat the base plate. I probably dont need the fence because there is a bearing in the router bit on both male and female so I assume this will act as a depth gauge, is this the wrong tool for the job?

Help would be appreciated before I make a complete lashup of 1k`s worth of ply

Bob

View attachment 182203 View attachment 182204

Can you not compress the base before fitting the tool.
If you were closer I'd Chuck a bigger tmrouter at you for a few weeks.
That 1/4 inch will be a bit weedy for the task.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

You can either plung and lock the router and fit the bit and use it that way,you could clearance the base or get a router with a bigger hole but likely that would mean going to a 1/2 which would a new bit too.

I've used a few cutters like that on my 1/4 router by locking the router in the plunged position. The only downside is you need to spend a bit more time fiddling to get the depth correct when you switch cutters.

It looks like you have a threaded fine adjuster so you should be fine.

Most decent half inch routers have a 1/4 inch collet too

 

[zx9]

Can you not compress the base before fitting the tool.
If you were closer I'd Chuck a bigger tmrouter at you for a few weeks.
That 1/4 inch will be a bit weedy for the task.

Agreed ^^^ I have the same 1/4" Bosch it would be fine for doing a couple of sheets but for the number @8ob is doing I would be looking at a 1/2" router. One of the other posts mentions using a router table, I would not fancy running a full sheet of ply on a table unless it was capable of supporting the full length of a sheet both before and after the cutter, granted you have a lot of space to play with but a 5M x 2M router table is big in anyone's books.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Agreed ^^^ I have the same 1/4" Bosch it would be fine for doing a couple of sheets but for the number @8ob is doing I would be looking at a 1/2" router. One of the other posts mentions using a router table, I would not fancy running a full sheet of ply on a table unless it was capable of supporting the full length of a sheet both before and after the cutter, granted you have a lot of space to play with but a 5M x 2M router table is big in anyone's books.

Something like this as a minimum.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er2100-2100w-electric-router-220-240v/535fx
Reasonable price and decent power.
Sell it on when done.

If it's something you will keep them something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hitachi-M1...ocphy=1006506&hvtargid=pla-421350503689&psc=1
That's a good price.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

And yes. Bearings act as your fence on these tools.

 

[8ob]

You can either plung and lock the router and fit the bit and use it that way,you could clearance the base or get a router with a bigger hole but likely that would mean going to a 1/2 which would a new bit too.
I've used a few cutters like that on my 1/4 router by locking the router in the plunged position. The only downside is you need to spend a bit more time fiddling to get the depth correct when you switch cutters.
It looks like you have a threaded fine adjuster so you should be fine.

This one wont lock down so I took the handles off and put a grub screw in there, makes it a pig to use with no handles and really fiddly to set up .

Agreed ^^^ I have the same 1/4" Bosch it would be fine for doing a couple of sheets but for the number @8ob is doing I would be looking at a 1/2" router. One of the other posts mentions using a router table, I would not fancy running a full sheet of ply on a table unless it was capable of supporting the full length of a sheet both before and after the cutter, granted you have a lot of space to play with but a 5M x 2M router table is big in anyone's books.

I think I am going to give up on this router, the bits are too big for the baseplate and fence so virtually impossible to use without the tool eating the baseplate. The tooling ideally needs to be set down a few though into the baseplate and the fence to go around the tooling. Freehand along the sheet is proving impossible

Something like this as a minimum.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er2100-2100w-electric-router-220-240v/535fx
Reasonable price and decent power.
Sell it on when done.

If it's something you will keep them something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hitachi-M1...ocphy=1006506&hvtargid=pla-421350503689&psc=1
That's a good price.

Cheers Robin, I am off to Screwfix with the bits to see if any of them will fit.

Not overly unhappy with the tongue or groove when it goes well, just need a fence working to guide it straight and get a bit of consistency.

A gash practice piece

 

[zx9]

This one wont lock down so I took the handles off and put a grub screw in there, makes it a pig to use with no handles and really fiddly to set up .

It will lock with the black handles it is just you are missing a small slug of steel that goes between the screw thread on the knob and the rail, probably where you have the drub screw.

Which reminds me to make another couple of them 'cos I keep loosing them.

 

[armalites]

One of these makes a big difference when doing this kind of stuff as it keeps everything nice and stable

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Trend-Ofs-Base-5027654518441-Offset-Router-Base

 

[sako243]

I think my JCB router is bigger Bob. I'm back on Wednesday and can bring it up if I remember.

Also got a friend (the one interested in some slabs) who does a lot of woodwork and has a selection of routers you could try.

 

[8ob]

Having a few more problems

I would like to rebate the edge of some cls on some boxing in to hide the edge of the 18mm ply, these are new cutters and I have set the depth. I dont think I will have a router left if I carry on with this, is this the wrong tool for the job?

Bob

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Having a few more problems

I would like to rebate the edge of some cls on some boxing in to hide the edge of the 18mm ply, these are new cutters and I have set the depth. I dont think I will have a router left if I carry on with this, is this the wrong tool for the job?

Bob

View attachment 230138 View attachment 230137 View attachment 230136 View attachment 230135

Set a fence on your skill saw.18mm
Set depth of cut to 18mm
Two cuts and job done.

Careful on entry and exit as that's where you will drift. Screw a bit of timber to the fence to extend it.

 

[armalites]

Are you trying to do that in one pass? I always take multiple bites in one dimension when hand held so either plunge a bit at a time or take some skim passes from the side. I've made loads of stuff with pine and every now and then you get a bit that is hell bent on splitting out. Normally right at the end of a job and in a really noticeable place.

If you take small bites you can trowel through it pretty quick.

I would also plunge from the wider face as it gives you more support and the cut at the bottom of the cutter is more forgiving.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Set a fence on your skill saw.18mm
Set depth of cut to 18mm
Two cuts and job done.

Careful on entry and exit as that's where you will drift. Screw a bit of timber to the fence to extend it.

If you clamp another timber to the side gives a bigger platform to support the saw base.
Do the same when I have to router on the narrow edge of stock too.

 

[armalites]

I use one of these, makes a big difference to stability.

Just realised I had already posted that.

A bearing guided rebate cutter makes a big difference on jobs like this too

I would also say the edge looks a bit dull on your cutter. They can be touched up with a diamond stone