A couple of ensuite refurbisment questions

[keithski122]

I'm just starting to redo our loft ensuite and removed a lot of tiles and plasterboard and found some rotten woodwork behind.Do I have to remove the rot or can I just screw in fresh wood next to the old or will the rotten stuff carry on rotting more? I will let it dry out first and give it a coat of hardener.I am using waterproof plasterboard and will tank the walls before tiling.
Also do these connectors look like hep2o fittings?

 

[roofman]

I would be getting rid of that mate

 

[brightspark]

cut the bad stuff out and rebuild its not worth the hassle bodging it . cut out the bad bit put noggins across 3 foot up and make a new frame below

 

[keithski122]

Thanks, wasn't sure if it was a bodge or an accepted repair.

 

[mike os]

Really depends if it’s wet or dry rot and how far it has progressed. But in reality it’s easier to replace now

 

[Matrixx]

Wet rot will turn to dry rot then you will have big problems, all the rotten wood needs to be removed, or the spores from the rot will spread. or in a few years time you will have a Triffid in your walls.

 

[Alan Reynolds]

Do check which rot you have there. Dry rot can spread long distances because the fungus tendrils creep like a Triffid! Wet rot is usually localised.

 

[Alan Reynolds]

Wet rot will turn to dry rot then you will have big problems, all the rotten wood needs to be removed, or the spores from the rot will spread. or in a few years time you will have a Triffid in your walls.

Ooops! I wrote mine and went into the shed and forgot to post it. Great minds! Spooky.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Yes, they are hep20 fittings.

 

[keithski122]

How can you tell if its wet or dry rot, is it as simple as it being wet or dry? Rot has been cause by leaking from the shower through tiling.

 

[brightspark]

just cut the bad stuff out and if your so concerned paint round the rest with 5 star wood treatment its probably just wet rot

 

[keithski122]

just cut the bad stuff out and if your so concerned paint round the rest with 5 star wood treatment its probably just wet rot

Thanks. just did a quick google and it is wet rot.I'll cut out and replace what I can.Toolstation does a treatment so will use some of that, then waterproof plaster board, tank the plaster, then big tiles with less grout lines.

 

[brightspark]

if your using cement backer boards it dont need plastering or tanking just paint on sbr bonding agent before tiling dont use waterproof unibond its useless and re emulsifies when its wet

 

[knighty]

I'd put something behind the backer boards to stop them flexing / warping as you fix them on


I always have... little bother didn't and tiling ontop was a real pain

 

[addjunkie]

Shower board hides a multitude of sins…

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Here is the way I did it, I used tile backer board, reinforced cement covered foam sheets.

Plenty of support...

....and plenty of fixings.

Then tanked.

Tile levelers were a god send.

All done.

 

[Blue Chips]

Do I have to remove the rot or can I just screw in fresh wood next to the old or will the rotten stuff carry on rotting more?

I'm not a professional tile installer, but from about 40 years of pretty extensive avocational experience in renovating old homes, which often involved floor/bath/shower/kitchen tile work (and fixing other people's mistakes), I would recommend removing the rotted wood and replacing it (as others have suggested), researching any mold treatments that could be applied to the area, and then doing whatever is necessary, construction-wise, to keep the interior of the wall dry.

For one thing, if you're tiling, don't skimp on the backer board, waterproofing, joint reinforcement, support structure, etc. A little extra expense/effort up front will pay in the long run. I'm not familiar with the tile backer board options in the UK, but here's a product that I really like, which I've used on the last couple of projects along with the related materials.

https://www.jameshardie.com/JamesHa...HydroDefense_Install_Instructions_English.pdf

As it happens, I'm planning to order the tile tomorrow for a small corner shower that I'm constructing. It's nothing too fancy, but I think it will have a couple of interesting features that I'll post at some point.

Here is the way I did it, I used tile backer board, reinforced cement covered foam sheets.

Very neat job on the tile work. I like the edge drain, too.

Tile levelers were a god send.

They have come in handy for me on a couple of occasions when installing tiles on slightly uneven concrete floors.

 

[Trevorleach]

I'm not a professional tile installer, but from about 40 years of pretty extensive avocational experience in renovating old homes, which often involved floor/bath/shower/kitchen tile work (and fixing other people's mistakes), I would recommend removing the rotted wood and replacing it (as others have suggested), researching any mold treatments that could be applied to the area, and then doing whatever is necessary, construction-wise, to keep the interior of the wall dry.

For one thing, if you're tiling, don't skimp on the backer board, waterproofing, joint reinforcement, support structure, etc. A little extra expense/effort up front will pay in the long run. I'm not familiar with the tile backer board options in the UK, but here's a product that I really like, which I've used on the last couple of projects along with the related materials.

https://www.jameshardie.com/JamesHa...HydroDefense_Install_Instructions_English.pdf

As it happens, I'm planning to order the tile tomorrow for a small corner shower that I'm constructing. It's nothing too fancy, but I think it will have a couple of interesting features that I'll post at some point.


Very neat job on the tile work. I like the edge drain, too.


They have come in handy for me on a couple of occasions when installing tiles on slightly uneven concrete floors.

Do you just pull the wedge out and snap off the little white bridge base?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Do you just pull the wedge out and snap off the little white bridge base?

Yes, that's exactly how it's done, the "bridge" has a weak point at the base that snaps easily when hit from the side.

 

[Blue Chips]

...tile backer board, reinforced cement covered foam sheets.

@RaceDiagnostics, what's the name of the backer board product you used? It sounds like it would weigh less than typical cement backer board (which would make it easier to handle), and I'm guessing that the foam could provide some added insulation.