A/C pipe repair

[T5 TDI]

Does anyone know if I can repair a pinhole in a car A/C pipe? It's an aluminium pipe and appears to be 8mm (measures 7.88 by cheap digital calipers). I don't think I have the ability to weld or solder it so I was thinking of compression fittings and a short length of new pipe. Obviously I can't use brass being ally so I suppose stainless steel would be best. I only have flaring tools for brake pipe sizes so that's out. This is on my wife's 2014 30,000 mile Yaris. I have already replaced the leaking condenser but it still has this second leak. I could buy a new pipe from Toyota but that's probably £100-£150 and it wends its way right round the back of the engine looking like a pretty evil job!

I've just had to replace a pipe and condenser on my own van so between testing/re-gas for the two vehicles I'm at down about £500 just in parts! So a nice cheap fix would suit me if such a thing is possible.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

JB weld. Place a blob on it.
Then place a jublie clip on it , when the jb weld is tacky.

I ahve seen it done, it did work. How long for, I don't know.

 

[DanZac]

I can't help on the bodge front but it looks like there's plenty of used options on e bay.

I'm guessing that if it's holed in one place then others won't be far behind.

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[willie.macleod]

You can buy aluminium ac pipe splicing kits on ebay, sounds like a 5/16th pipe, also worth replacing the dryer if you haven't already done so if the system has been open for any significant length of time.

 

[8ob]

Some of the mobile air con guys are good and inexpensive, we have a guy that will come out to change/repair air con bits and then test/regas. Always strikes me as more than reasonable.

Bob

 

[T5 TDI]

That splicing kit sounds interesting. I didn't come across those. Does this one look ok to you? I'd like to get away with just one splice if I can cut out only a few mm. It failed at a plastic clip where it wore through.

The drier is new (part of the condenser) so I'd like to get it fixed soon before I need another one!!

 

[willie.macleod]

That's the type, should be ok if it was just a single case of fretting at the clip.

 

[mtt.tr]

Some of the mobile air con guys are good and inexpensive, we have a guy that will come out to change/repair air con bits and then test/regas. Always strikes me as more than reasonable.

Bob

I'd go for this additionally they will have all the small niche bits.

 

[T5 TDI]

Looking at it again, the the pinhole is on a bend so it will take a section of new pipe and two fittings. I think on balance I might as well cough up the £127 +VAT and not have to worry about a future leak. I don't think our only local ac guy here would repair it much cheaper. He isn't cheap! Thanks all for your help.

 

[Trevorleach]

I had the same on a landrover a/c pipe, was going to do the same with a splice, but as you have found parts price is not far off the new pipe.
The lr ones were an utter **** to replace as they went over the rear axle.

 

[willie.macleod]

One other thing to consider if pipes are difficult to get/replace is you can get an aircon hose made up by Car builder solutions (https://www.carbuilder.com/) with the right ends for sensible money. Their catalogue is a must have for any car DIY person!

 

[T5 TDI]

I have a couple of times over the years about getting power steering pipes made up but it's always more than the dealer cost. The last one was on my Transporter van. They said the ends where dedicated VW not standard so they would have to be fabricated at £900 or so! Suddenly VW's price of £105 sounded cheap!

 

[anto44]

I've tig welded ac pipes before, this one came as part of the condensor so it was about €700 for a new one from the dealer.

 

[Ubique]

JB weld. Place a blob on it.
Then place a jublie clip on it , when the jb weld is tacky.

I ahve seen it done, it did work. How long for, I don't know.

I wouldn't recommend it, if it's 8mm pipe then it's on the high side so you can see pressures up up to 36bar. Personally I've TIG welded them but I know some of the mobile aircon guys use Durafix Easyweld and a small propane torch.

 

[T5 TDI]

I have used epoxy putty before but it's only ever a handy but temporary bodge for me whenever I have used it.
Didn't realise the high side could be up to 36 bar. Over 500 psi! I'm careful about the usual frostbite and exploding dangers with A/C but I didn't know the pressure could be that high. My A/C is empty now so there is no pressure of any kind inside the system and any moisture inside is already there. This pipe is the one from the condenser to the evaporator. I can see the said pipe disappearing into the evaporator through the bulkhead but I can't see any connection so I'm hoping I it can be done without taking the dash out.

 

[Ubique]

See if you can find an online parts catalogue that will give you a line drawing of the part, it usually gives you a good idea of where the connections are. Max pressure depends upon your refrigerant and ambient temperature, R134 can be up to 17bar, R1234YF can be up to 36bar and R774 can be up to 72bar

 

[AVI_8]

I’d probably go down the road of post 3 above, if you try to repair the pipe or pay someone to do it then pay £50 to get it re-gassed only to find out that the repair still leaks, or even starts leaking a few months later then you’re back to square one having to get it fixed and re-gassed again.

 

[willie.macleod]

Assuming its a petrol 1.3 the diagram on my software shows this is your setup. Shouldn't need to faff around with the dash, the bit I ringed is normally a single bolt and pull the hoses out from the engine bay.

 

[T5 TDI]

I've had a better look under the bonnet. The circled block in your pic has a central bolt. The block 'belongs' to the larger pipe but has a slot cut in it so I can remove my smaller pipe. The pipe comes with two seals but I will need the seal for the larger pipe in the block. The pipe that has failed is in the high pressure line if I didn't say. This Yaris has the old RG34A gas. Thanks for your help.