65 Mustang Update

  1. Hotrod Member

    Hi all. Just thought I'd post a few pics of how my first attempts at fixing 'a few rust spots' on my 65 Mustang.

    I hope these images are okay. Hopefully, they're not too bad and aren't too large.

    It's been a very steep learning curve as I haven't welded thin metal before, but I've learnt a heck of a lot from this website and it's given me the confidence to have a go (thanks Malcolm). The main things I've found so far are that the majority of the time taken is the preparation of the affected areas and replacement panels/patches. Especially as most joins are butt welded, and I've found even a smallish gap (over 1mm) can cause difficulties. Also, Some of the panels I was welding to were galvanised and I found the best way to cope with this was to grind as much of the platining off as possible without thinning the metal too much. Otherwise, it kept spitting, preventing good penetration and causing melting back of the thin metal being welded to it.

    Hopefully, my welding will get neater when I move onto the bodywork. I'll have to be watchful of warping issues - so far I've only done stuff most people won't see!!

    Anyway, see what you think.

    That's all the rust gone - way past the point of no return now.

    Just a small repair then! This is were you can all have a go at my welding. I left the panel between the sill and tunnel (the driver seat sits on this) intact (apart from an access whole I cut in the top) as it would have weakened the floor structure.


    The wonderful discovery of what lay (or not) beneath the carpet on the left side of the car. You may be able to see many previous repair patches in the footwell - these were tacked on over the original floor! I think some of it was held on with paint!


    My very first repair!!! This shows the left rear floor under the rear seat or what there was of it! The patch panel took ages to shape and fit.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 1, 2006
  2. malcolm

    malcolm & Clementine the Cat

    Bedford UK
    The new floors look great. It's good to see you've gone about it in exactly the right way - all of the olf metal removed, goog cleaning up, panel joints in the otiginal positions, and plug welds to secure the new parts to the underfloor chassis members.

    Welding looks good too - decent consistant penetration. It's tricky to get a lot neater than that with thin metal. The problem with the exterior body panels is going to be panel distortion - should be OK with loads of tack welds and being careful not to get the panels hot with too much welding all at once.

    Careful with galvanised coatings too - turns out the fumes are really nasty.

    Thanks for posting the photos. They'll provide some good inspiration for others (I can see other Mustang owners checking under their carpets :lol:)
  3. Lurcher Member

    Everyones written advice is great but when you see the rust and then the beautiful new pieces of steel welded in, then that is, as Malcolm says, "inspiration". Being very new to the game I'm a bit overwhelmed by my Landy Disco and the amount of rust I'm finding. I've done the sills, my first ever welding job and I hope newbies reading realise 95% of the job, seems to me, the preparation. The prep is really hard but rewarding work, I just love cutting rust out, knowing it's gone forever(??). Well, with good anti-rust prevention afterwards and keeping on top of it over the years, why not!?
    Keep up the photos you techies!
    SO shiney SO clean....Drool
    Lurcher :lol:
  4. sclurgess Member

    that really is rather impressive work
  5. Hotrod Member

    Thanks for the comments - it's nice to get reassurance that all the work wasn't in vain.

    As has been mentioned, most of the work is in the preparation. Man-handling that full length piece of floor in and out trying to get the butt joints accurately cut was a little tricky! Where the joints were close, the welding was much easier. Using the tips on this site about welding in short bursts, then waiting a few seconds for heat to disperse worked wonders - you have to be patient, but it's worth it - cleaning up a bad weld takes longer. I also found keeping a steady hand/torch very important. In areas with restricted access, I found welding with one hand much more difficult - I presume because the arc gap must vary when your hand is shaking. Resting the torch tip against your other hand reduces this and allows much smoother welding and more control.

    The next job on the list is sorting out some of the cause for the rotten floor - leaks from the front and rear screens. I know there are holes in the rear screen surrounding metalwork, so if anyone has any tips for removing 40 year old glass without damage, I would be most grateful.
  6. ^neo^

    ^neo^ Member

    Top job m8 !
  7. Phill Member

    now that was rotten! but for it's age what more can anyone expect.

    new floor looks great, not sure I'm confident enough to do what you have done though.. wouldn't know where to start

    keep the updates coming as I'd like to follow your project
  8. eddie c captain holeblower

    aha! thats why i think im a crap welder-couldnt be bothered with preparation in the past,used to just try and weld to anything! ive even used bodyfiller rolled into balls in the past to fill the gaps in :-s.,i suppose it was just impatience in the past.
    Ah the joys of youth!!!!

    hotrod - good work fella ,the job looks very neat to me! kuel!!
  9. vwjaz Member

    fantastic job...sitting here very envious of your work

    well done you :cool: