600cc Matchless twin, worn crank splines.

[brightspark]

I have these if a few are any good to u made for the job https://www.castolin.com/en-CA/product/eutecrod-xuper-185-xfc

 

[Bill Edwards]

I have these if a few are any good to u made for the job https://www.castolin.com/en-CA/product/eutecrod-xuper-185-xfc

They look useful.

 

[Screwdriver]

Courtesy of Abom79

 

[Chris Stevens]

Courtesy of Abom79

I mentioned powder welding earlier, and there is certainly not need to weld up the whole shaft as shown, as with care the damaged areas alone can be built up. I have some powder which was used to repair train wheels, which would probably be perfect for repairing those splines.

 

[TechnicAl]

Cast rods have a high nickel content, whereas dissimilar are stainless. As to welding mild steel to cast I've done it with cast rods, but when buying them I've been told there are two kinds - i.e one for cast to cast and one for cast to steel. I don't know the difference between then, perhaps it's one for @TechnicAl - I'd be interested to know myself.

As to building up the worn splines with braze, I'd say no. After all, it's basically brass and isn't up to it, the best places for braze are joints where there are two parts close (i.e just touching) where the braze is drawn in by capillary action and fuses it everywhere but not relying on being built up for strength. I think I'm explaining badly!
Pete's idea would have it where the keystock is being held in position with the braze and the power transmission isn't relying on the shear strength of the braze. As to how much work is involved in that I don't know, I'd have thought it as easy as a slot drill to make the slot, drop it in and after brazing just clean up much like you would if it had been welded. But, I'm not a machinist.

You probably mean pure Nickel and Nickel Iron...........in truth the difference is more economic than technical. The pure Nickel is more crack resistant but its also a lot more expensive. There are a few types of Cast Iron that are best welded with pure Nickel (one called NiResist and some others that contain Cr, sort of Stainless Cast Irons)
The Nickel Iron will work for most Irons. The common grades such as Grey and SG (Nodular) Irons can be welded with NiFe

They both work for CI to MS but again the NiFe is cheaper

Cast Irons are high in Carbon. This carbon migrates into mild steel weld metal but not into Nickel. The nickel wont accept the carbon therefore it remains soft and pliable. So the NiFe will embrittle a little and the pure Ni not at all.

 

[Bill Edwards]

You probably mean pure Nickel and Nickel Iron...........in truth the difference is more economic than technical. The pure Nickel is more crack resistant but its also a lot more expensive. There are a few types of Cast Iron that are best welded with pure Nickel (one called NiResist and some others that contain Cr, sort of Stainless Cast Irons)
The Nickel Iron will work for most Irons. The common grades such as Grey and SG (Nodular) Irons can be welded with NiFe

They both work for CI to MS but again the NiFe is cheaper

Cast Irons are high in Carbon. This carbon migrates into mild steel weld metal but not into Nickel. The nickel wont accept the carbon therefore it remains soft and pliable. So the NiFe will embrittle a little and the pure Ni not at all.

So really for most normal applications you're fine with any ordinary nickel rod, with the usual case of course that it's best to get good quality ones as they're nicer to use!

 

[dannyp]

metal spray it and then recut splines ? maybe

 

[TechnicAl]

So really for most normal applications you're fine with any ordinary nickel rod, with the usual case of course that it's best to get good quality ones as they're nicer to use!

The Nickel Rods for cast irons have a graphite coating which allows the rod to run on low currents thus keeping the heat down. Low heat is good on Cast Irons. This graphite coating wouldnt get good penetration on most other alloys. The other Nickel rods such as 625 or 82 have coatings similar to Low hys mainly to maintain low impurities and achieve a sound weld.

 

[ronan]

Russell motors in Battersea London used to be the go-to people for all things matchless. Being into old british bikes myself, i'd recommend you keep an eye on the american ebay or over on britbike.com for a replacement. The Americans only used the british bikes they bought as playthings rather than for commuting on, like this side of the Atlantic.

http://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=132&id=25249&limit=0

 

[Screwdriver]

I mentioned powder welding earlier, and there is certainly not need to weld up the whole shaft as shown, as with care the damaged areas alone can be built up. I have some powder which was used to repair train wheels, which would probably be perfect for repairing those splines.

Yeah I just posted it because I remember seeing it and it impressed the hell out of me!

Clearly in his case there isn't that much build up required. I guess the spray welding on the lathe mitigates the potential for warping the shaft.

 

[dannyp]

th other option wich may sound like overkill, if it's not a compicated cranck have a billet one made ?

 

[Seadog]

Russell motors in Battersea London used to be the go-to people for all things matchless. Being into old british bikes myself, i'd recommend you keep an eye on the american ebay or over on britbike.com for a replacement. The Americans only used the british bikes they bought as playthings rather than for commuting on, like this side of the Atlantic.

http://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=132&id=25249&limit=0

I went to their stores once, out in Kent somewhere, I can't where remember exactly. They had huge WWII corrugated sheds stacked with very collectible AMC parts. The weird thing was there were grassy mounds scattered around the place. Apparently these were just heaps of WD spares that had been left out in the open for donkey's years. Every now and then they'd open one up to see what they could ship to Falcon Road. The rustier the better, rust meant value

 

[ronan]

I went to their stores once, out in Kent somewhere, I can't where remember exactly. They had huge WWII corrugated sheds stacked with very collectible AMC parts. The weird thing was there were grassy mounds scattered around the place. Apparently these were just heaps of WD spares that had been left out in the open for donkey's years. Every now and then they'd open one up to see what they could ship to Falcon Road. The rustier the better, rust meant value

That would be all g3l 350cc single stuff though ? Its amazing, but all the stuff people dumped in canals and ditches to get rid of it, is now worth money. BSA M20's, Norton 16h's and the like

 

[normspanners]

I built up with weld my badly worn , albeit front sprocket splines on my fantic trails with out a problem and just filed it back into shape.
And when I stripped it few years later they looked perfect.

 

[Mr shiney]

I would give the AJS and Matchless Club in Kettering a call. I was in there awhile ago and their stores are a sight to behold.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Yeah I just posted it because I remember seeing it and it impressed the hell out of me!

Clearly in his case there isn't that much build up required. I guess the spray welding on the lathe mitigates the potential for warping the shaft.

Powder welding is simply a special oxy acetylene torch with a hopper for the powder, which is drawn into the welding flame, melted and deposited on the work-piece. No need for a lathe, and material can be deposited very accurately, to the extent that I would guess hand finishing would be viable. I have some powder used for repairing cast iron train wheels, which I think would be ideal to sort OPs crank.

 

[ronan]

Somewhere else you might consider contacting is srm engineering in Aberystwyth, they do crank work on old crocks, sorry classics and might be able to help you .


http://www.srmclassicbikes.com/

 

[penfold]

I'd disagree about braze not being up to it; it's in compression and needs to resist fretting, which brass is quite good at, plus it's a process that can be readily done at home and hand finishing after you've laid it down is just time consuming rather than impossible. Provided you end up with a good fit with the old sprocket(or new sprocket if available) it should last well.

 

[Chris Stevens]

I'd disagree about braze not being up to it; it's in compression and needs to resist fretting, which brass is quite good at, plus it's a process that can be readily done at home and hand finishing after you've laid it down is just time consuming rather than impossible. Provided you end up with a good fit with the old sprocket(or new sprocket if available) it should last well.

Braze will work fine, but only if fit up is very precise, and there is no movement whatever. Hard surfacing powder applied with powder welding torch would be better, but final finishing would be far more difficult.

 

[TechnicAl]

Powder welding is simply a special oxy acetylene torch with a hopper for the powder, which is drawn into the welding flame, melted and deposited on the work-piece. No need for a lathe, and material can be deposited very accurately, to the extent that I would guess hand finishing would be viable. I have some powder used for repairing cast iron train wheels, which I think would be ideal to sort OPs crank.

Its METCO or SULZER METCO who are the usual manufcatuer but these days they do a lot of wire. The machine arcs two wires togeether and then a blast of gas sprays the molten metal.......same thing really